Batsheva Hay’s dresses are unmissable. Sewn from vintage fabrics, kept in retro patterns, with a distinct prairie-style ruffle-trimmed detail – you just know it’s a Batsheva. And this fantastic story of a dress could happen only in New York. Hay turned from a lawyer to fashion designer, quite suddenly, when she decided to do a few dresses for herself and her friends. The silhouette was so good that more friends wanted it, then friends of friends started to order, and so on. And here we are, it’s Batsheva’s third season, and the first runway presentation. I would dare to say it was a fashion moment, something that growingly becomes a rarity in New York. Her pop-up store, where you can order a customised Batsheva piece, changed into a show venue; Christina Ricci, who became Batshava’s fan on Instagram, opened the show; Courtney Love sat front row (or rather, on a couch) with Hay and her daughter, and evidently enjoyed the scene. The models talked, mused, even sang about beauty through the microphone, and then went down to the guests. The dress came in multiple materials, prints and colours, from corduroy and velvet to lilac and pistachio. There were as well ruffled culottes and cute blazers – evidence that Hay is eager to expand her line. Some of the girls had feathers, fake flowers and textile remnants in their doll-like curls. Batsheva dresses have something dolled-up about them, but not entirely. Worn with heavy boots or sneakers, just as most models did, the dress becomes something completely else right away. What else to love about the brand? No pretentious references or overthought philosophies here, but a fun lineup of clothes that reflects a woman’s personal style. I bet from all the New York-based designers, the one-of-a-kind stuff with Batsheva’s tag will sell first, like buns. No, like cupcakes!
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Except for Matty Bovan‘s collection which was a bomb, it seems that the London designers prefer to revisit their archives this season. There’s no way Simone Rocha can go wrong with her signature dresses with ‘leg of mutton’ sleeves and meticulous embroidries – her customers adore them. Even though the collection was filled with Rocha classics, his time around, the designer immersed herselft into Victorian-era fashion and brought lots of bows, ruffles and ornaments that richly decorated the bustlines. Although Victoriana is a hard thing to do for contemporary designers (falling into the ‘too literal’ trap…), Simone pulls it off like no other, making her delightful gowns look precious, but not over-dressed or forced.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
It’s a season of happiness, that’s a sure thing, and you may like it or not. Molly Goddard, who’s devoted to ‘happiness’ since her London fashion week debut, is fully in the game. Edie Campbell with a glass of champagne in one hand and an e-cigarette in the other was the first sign that it’s gonna be fun. The models were spiralling and dancing down the runway, not walking. Well, who wouldn’t want to loose themselves to dance in one of Goddard’s signature tulle dresses? To a surprise of many, though, tulle wasn’t the season’s hero for Molly. And it’s great to see that the designer can pull off a brilliant collection, while emerging into new fields. Smocking jackets; modern day dame ball-gowns; layers of shiny embroidery over frocks; heavy boots worn with the lightest pieces. Those ‘ladies’ have balls. They might go to a Prince Charming’s palace and leave for a pub with pals (maybe Chavs, even?). Erin O’Connor, who closed the show wearing a loosely-fitted skirt underneath a dress, was yet another sign: British fashion, today’s or yesterday’s, adores Goddard and her girl.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.
Parachute top with ruffled sleeves, ball-skirt in pastel-green, purple total-look made of eye-catchy ‘marble’ fabric, lemon pantsuit, patchworked robe-dress, another blouse with voluminous ruffles, but in red. Yes, you’ve guessed it right – I’m speaking of Rosie Assoulin‘s dreamy wardrobe for autumn-winter 2017 collection. Being New York’s queen of contemporary eveningwear and ‘makes me smile’ everyday essentials, Assoulin invited her guests to a tea-party-kinda presentation, which not only let the editors observe the delightful gowns in motion – it was also an occasion to celebrate the designer’s footwear line. Assoulin was inspired with fancy interiors and those little, meticulously crafted details that make a room look high above the average. That’s why some of the shoe heels reassembled table legs! While other designers get melancholic this season, Rosie’s signature optimism stays for good. But who wouldn’t feel cheerful, wearing one of those floral slip-dresses next autumn?
Boys from Proenza Schouler heated up their dress-code after their trip to Cuba in March. There, they became inspired with vibrant movement of the streets and feminine silhouette of traditional dresses. The dresses, which were the main components of the Resort 2016 collection, were made in a great, over-sized fit. They definitely can be worn for a hot flamenco. A sleeveless red tweed dress with a handkerchief hem and a gentle ruffle down the front (another nod to Cuba) was one of the best pieces, as elegant as it was effortless. The exposed shoulders gave a subtle sex-appeal, too. That was a good, good collection.
I used to think that I am the only one, who yawns when sees Elie Saab’s boring evening gowns. Many designer who do evening-wear think that an excessive amount of Swarovski and flesh-exposing-cuts is just it. But thankfully, Rosie Assoulin is the woman to say a loud “NO” to that. The New York-based designer creates dresses which are mostly categorised as “evenining” ones, but surprisingly look as good with white sneakers as with heels. By looking at the latest, AW15 collection by Rosie, it’s easy to conclude, that these simply cut, boldly-coloured dresses look at their best with sweatpants and yes, even with hoodies. Her clothes are like cameleons – they fit into nearly each occasion. The stand-out pieces are definitely the signature cropped tops worn over white shirts, corduroy pants and of course, the dreamy maxi-gowns. Somehow, with Assoulin, the statement “wear the dream” becomes real.
Brits got that thing, that they like to bring monarchy and opulence to their brand. After last season’s pearly queens at Simone Rocha, we’ve got the colourful princes by Emilia Wickstead. Using modern technologies, the shee, over-sized gowns were presented in pale pink, light blue and toned black. Also, the oranges caught the eye- the classy ball dresses looked totally as for a queen. “I had this vision of a young girl getting dressed up for a night out, dancing in front of the mirror to someone like David Bowie or Bryan Ferry, and very excited at perhaps seeing her crush at the club that night.” So said Emilia Wickstead after her Spring show, summing up the spirit of her youthful collection.
The MET Gala 2014 was all about Charles James- the only American couturier who made couture functional and practical. The party happened on May of 5th and as usual, it made a fuss. But maybe not as loud as last year’s punk celebration! I must admit, this year was pretty… normal? It was all about tulle, organza and other “gala” stuff… but lets see who wore what (and how) this year!
Rita Ora in Donna Karan Atelier – Ups. It’s not a Game of Thrones episode. Hate the tulle, the gladiator shoes and… the strange colour of the face! Rita, once you dressed better, seriously.
Lupita Nyong’o in Prada – Everybody be like “OMG, it’s Lupita!”. Yes, it is Lupita. And she looks like a colourful paradise bird that ran way from Great Gatsby’s island!
Joan Smalls in Vera Wang – Girl, love ya! Everything on Joan looks perfect and sexy. Love the hair and even that Vera Wang gown seems to be great.
Kendall Jenner in Topshop – Can’t say she looks bad. Just the fact, that all the meringues have disappeared from the bakery shops in New York makes sense.Rihanna in Stella McCartney – Rihanna rocks. As always. That’s good to see her back at MET because she made everybody fall on their knees.
Jay Z in Givenchy and Beyoncé in Givenchy Couture – I am not sure if I like that look. Beyonce could give more leg rather than hiding them behind a pyjama. And Jay Z looks like Jay Z: I mean, the perfect Givenchy suit.
Karlie Kloss in Oscar de la Renta – Oh no! Karlie looks a bit lonely and sad and lost in that dark gown! Help! Help!Kristen Stewart in Chanel Couture – The new face of Chanel, KStew, just looks OK in that sympathetic dress. And the new hair is surely thumbs up.Stacy Martin – Miu Miu fits her. She looks sweet, girly and pretty!Christopher Kane and Natalie Massenet in Christopher Kane – that column gown is flawless! This origami structure is gorgeous. And very custom because it was made specially for the party. Chanel Iman in Topshop and Asap Rocky – Good girl with a bad boy. That’s all about that couple. Adele Exarchopoulos in Prada – Eww. Too much of glitter in here. Need air!Maxwell Osborne, Jenna Lyons and Dao Yi Chow – the three top New York designer looking at their best, and even beyond! I want everything, but everything from Maxwell’s Public School suit. And Jenna is again a hot inspiration for gorgeous women.Giovanna Battaglia – Dolce Vita (and Dolce & Gabbana) in NYC. Why not. Roman Holidays are always a good idea!Cara Delevigne in Stella McCartney – Cara was the one who broke the dress code, and wore a Stella McCartney pieces. Sexy and elegant. We like it!Margot Robbie in Prada – the only dress I liked by Prada this evening. Anne Hathaway in Calvin Klein – Anne ever excites me on galas. And this time she nearly sinked on the red carpet.Lily Allen in Chanel – Muffin party again.Brie Larson – who ever it is, she looks great in Prada. Opulence is the thing in here!SJP in Oscar de la Renta – THAT’s so SARAH JESSICA PARKER and the Sex and The City wedding!Kate Upton in Dolce & Gabbana – I love Kate. I love her body. But that horrifying, lace something is so bad on her! Note that thing on the head! Scary…Karolina Kurkova in Marchesa – the only women who really caught the whole glamour of Charles James. The dress and herself is a pure beauty. Karolina surely stole my heart and made a big red carpet moment in the history of MET. My favourite this year!Alexa Chung in Nina Ricci – AAAAAAAH! I am a bit astonished with that outfit… in a bad way.David Beckham and Victoria Beckham – it’s white on white in case of Victoria. Her great body is a sculptural perfection.Chloe Grace Moretz in Chanel Haute Couture – is that the American Princess reality show wehere Honey Boo Boo stars (OK, Chloe is a bit thinner…)?Erykah Badu in Givenchy – LOVE THIS. So too cool to care. Erykah got the attitude while the coat is one of the “to kill for”.Florence Welch in Valentino – yeah, Florence really seems to enjoy it…Rosamund Pike in Louis Vuitton – I just want to make a statement. Nicolas Ghesquiere, who designed the AW14 collection for Louis Vuitton, thought clearly about ready-to-wear rather than a red gala moment. I have so many mixed feelings about that look…Jessica Lange and Marc Jacobs (in Saint Laurent!) – wow, Marc is not in a dress nor in a skirt! But as usual, he and his date (Jessica stars in his Beauty campaign) look lovely.Dree Hemingway in Proenza Schouler – this look is called minimalistic retro. The colour and those white heels are dreamy! Dree looks beautiful!Marion Cotillard in Dior – No. No. No. The shoes killed the dress. I want to see Marion in something else than Dio, please!Naomi Campbell in Givenchy – Naomi looks glamorous and luxurious in all that jazzy, white gown with feathers! Even those Diana Ross like hair fit in here! Kim Kardashian and Kanye West in Lanvin – Why hate them? They look good! I like that leg giving cut on Kim’s Lanvin dress… but I don’t get why Kanye seemed to not enjoy this years gala…
… so lets hope he will in 2015! And now, lets digest this year with a fashionable burp.