The Dress. Batsheva AW19

Batsheva Hay’s dresses are unmissable. Sewn from vintage fabrics, kept in retro patterns, with a distinct prairie-style ruffle-trimmed detail – you just know it’s a Batsheva. And this fantastic story of a dress could happen only in New York. Hay turned from a lawyer to fashion designer, quite suddenly, when she decided to do a few dresses for herself and her friends. The silhouette was so good that more friends wanted it, then friends of friends started to order, and so on. And here we are, it’s Batsheva’s third season, and the first runway presentation. I would dare to say it was a fashion moment, something that growingly becomes a rarity in New York. Her pop-up store, where you can order a customised Batsheva piece, changed into a show venue; Christina Ricci, who became Batshava’s fan on Instagram, opened the show; Courtney Love sat front row (or rather, on a couch) with Hay and her daughter, and evidently enjoyed the scene. The models talked, mused, even sang about beauty through the microphone, and then went down to the guests. The dress came in multiple materials, prints and colours, from corduroy and velvet to lilac and pistachio. There were as well ruffled culottes and cute blazers – evidence that Hay is eager to expand her line. Some of the girls had feathers, fake flowers and textile remnants in their doll-like curls. Batsheva dresses have something dolled-up about them, but not entirely. Worn with heavy boots or sneakers, just as most models did, the dress becomes something completely else right away. What else to love about the brand? No pretentious references or overthought philosophies here, but a fun lineup of clothes that reflects a woman’s personal style. I bet from all the New York-based designers, the one-of-a-kind stuff with Batsheva’s tag will sell first, like buns. No, like cupcakes!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Royal. Erdem Resort 2019

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What a collection! Erdem Moralıoğlu‘s resort 2019 collection is about chic royalty at its best. So, what an Erdem woman might want to take from this season? Brocade bustier dress with detachable balloon sleeves (and that pearl necklace), for sure. All those chiffon pieces and feather moments. Not forgetting about the loveliest floral gowns with velvet inserts. Well, I guess the contemporary Marie Antoinette would take it all, without a second thought!

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Victorian Girl. Simone Rocha AW18

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Except for Matty Bovan‘s collection which was a bomb, it seems that the London designers prefer to revisit their archives this season. There’s no way Simone Rocha can go wrong with her signature dresses with ‘leg of mutton’ sleeves and meticulous embroidries – her customers adore them. Even though the collection was filled with Rocha classics, his time around, the designer immersed herselft into Victorian-era fashion and brought lots of bows, ruffles and ornaments that richly decorated the bustlines.  Although Victoriana is a hard thing to do for contemporary designers (falling into the ‘too literal’ trap…), Simone pulls it off like no other, making her delightful gowns look precious, but not over-dressed or forced.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Girls Wanna Have Fun. Molly Goddard SS18

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It’s a season of happiness, that’s a sure thing, and you may like it or not. Molly Goddard, who’s devoted to ‘happiness’ since her London fashion week debut, is fully in the game. Edie Campbell with a glass of champagne in one hand and an e-cigarette in the other was the first sign that it’s gonna be fun. The models were spiralling and dancing down the runway, not walking. Well, who wouldn’t want to loose themselves to dance in one of Goddard’s signature tulle dresses? To a surprise of many, though, tulle wasn’t the season’s hero for Molly. And it’s great to see that the designer can pull off a brilliant collection, while emerging into new fields. Smocking jackets; modern day dame ball-gowns; layers of shiny embroidery over frocks; heavy boots worn with the lightest pieces. Those ‘ladies’ have balls. They might go to a Prince Charming’s palace and leave for a pub with pals (maybe Chavs, even?). Erin O’Connor, who closed the show wearing a loosely-fitted skirt underneath a dress, was yet another sign: British fashion, today’s or yesterday’s, adores Goddard and her girl. 

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.