Sebastian Mengozzi is a one of the best fluorist in Paris. His cozy boutique full of fresh flowers is located close to Balenciaga and Givenchy, on Rue Victor Hugo. The spring in Paris is pretty cold so we thought to come inside the flower shop. And it was like if whole flower power of Summer attacked as in middle of Paris! Roses, orchidee, magnolias, pivons… Colours were so various and the scent! I couldn’t resist any mor an bought two beautiful bouquets of pink roses to our hotel!
I never wrote about Valentino in the past, because it always seemed to me boring and without any vigour. But this time it was totally another. What I loved, there were so much inspirations! And mostly from Netherlands, where these things are common. The collection started with models wearing black dresses with collars and a ponytail hair in the front. After looking at the moodboard of Valentino, that had to be inspired with nuns costumes! Pretty religious! And then the dresses camre in indigo colour. For sure, the new red is blue colour at Valentino!
What more: there was the print of known around the world Delftwere blue porcelain! It’s hand painted in a small city Delft in Holland. It was used in amazing way on dresses, tops and trousers. In reality there was a lot of flower tapestry that is Velentino’s classic. What I loved, is that there was a lot of modernity in few dresses- these with semicircles on shoulders and sides. And I like it!
Mr. Dries Van Noten, that’s coming from Belgium, is going really boheme this time. First of all everything looks loosy and really affordable. And comfortable. There is a big gender mix- boy meets girl and girl meets boy. It is easy to see by looking just at the shoes! A lot of cashmere sweaters, midi skirts with fluffy feathers in multicolour, everything shines bright as always! A lot of flower print was seen and elegant garments killed with a nonchalant scarves. Very Dries!
And one more time- these dresses and skirts made out of some kind of feathers in fresh colours like red or yellow are great contrast for a grey top! Everything is different, but in a harmony state. Nothing is biting anyhing, but still it keeps a avant-garde tone. Paris boheme from past would be stunned. And I do also. This collection is as great as the last one inspired with grunge and Kurt Cobain (it also had something bohemian in it)!
Tom Ford, that is now having a rebirth of his label that was for time being making cosmetics, and really long time ago was creative director of Gucci, is debuting with his third collection on London Fashion Week. Now I’m saying this. He is my favorite of the week. His collections are for real, they’ve got fur in great amounts (sorry PETA and eco fans), luxury embroinment on skirts and pants with Chinatown inspired flowers from the elegant lounges and clubs for elite. After a serie of super luxury sportwear with animal print a bit of black minimalism came on amazing sweaters.
Ford was also inspired with Neons/pop art. Just look at the dresses and jackets! These Kapow patterns that are known from Roy Lichtenstein art are mind blowing. And what’s very Tom, is that he didn’t put these Kapow’s everywhere- no he used it in subtel, delicate amount, mostly on maxi gowns.
When the furs came around I thought to myself “Altuzarra and Prabal Gurung, take notes or run away”! The long, higly tailored coats with laser cut leather and white fur were breath taking! I was jst stunned.
And the funniest part of the show was when the “zebras” came! The long evening gowns with sequined stripes in black and white were so classical but modern! Really the collection left me in many points totally stunned. And I was feeling, like if the models came out from a elite and luxury lounge somewhere in London, decorated in Chinese like ornaments and 60’s- 70’s prints… Tom Ford collection was BEST from whole London Fashion Week!
The wait is over! After long months of waiting for Christopher Kane new season, it is here. Maybe it wasn’t as spectacular as SS colelction that was full of cool details and colours. This time Kane preferred some couture cut but in a street chic. The embelished 3D flowers on blouses were also gourgous. And for a better effect, the whole runway was located in a factory were production of sth was done!
And I should say, that Kane was inspired with french master of laser cut and silhoutte- Azzedine Alaia. Just look at the bordoux dresses- they look like if they were thanks to eye of Alaia himself! I loved the structured white dress with fabric made plates. One more thing is sure- the dresses and tops with bleeding brains will be a must have just a the Frankenstein tee. It looks cool!
Design & Culture by Ed 