#IntaLOVE – July 2018

July 30, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

@davidluraschi

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my July recommendations!

@loljacobs / Lolita Jacobs is the Paris-based creative director and stylist, whose Instagram feed is like a livestream mood-board consisting of Françoise Hardy looks and Irving Penn’s still life photographs. But also, once you click ‘follow’, be prepared for having your wedding goals levelled up. The pics of her’s and Jean-Baptiste Talbourdet-Napoleone’s St. Tropez wedding, that took place this month, are heaven. Especially, when your bridal looks consist of custom Jacquemus and Alaia.

@davidluraschi / You might know David Luraschi for his work for Jacquemus – think the spring-summer 2018 campaign photographed on the volcanic beaches of Lanzarote. His latest editorial for Vogue, starring the incredible Adut Akech, placed the talented photographer even further in the spotlight. Keep this guy on your radar.

@maryamkeyhani / With Maryam Keyhani’s feed, you’re entering a fantastical reality of, as Vogue puts it, sculptor, painter, wife, mother, surrealist, and dreamer; but hat lady is certainly near the top of a list. Maryam is based in Berlin and she’s about to launch her headwear line in autumn. Expect the most marvelous headpieces you (or rather she) can imagine. Other than hats, it’s vintage clothing and the way she styles it that makes Keyhani’s account so… addicting. I mean, wouldn’t you wear a huge ball-gown in front of a Louis Bourgeois installation?

@pppiccioli / There are many reasons why you should follow Pierpaolo Piccioli on the ‘gram. First snaps from Valentino campaigns (lately done by Juergen Teller); backstage moments from the shows (think the latest haute couture collection and that ecstatic feather gown Kaia Gerber wore); postcards from designer’s trip to Morocco. Do you really need more to be convinced?

@luncheonmagazine / Luncheon Magazine calls itself a ‘cultural serving’. Well, there’s no other more precise way to describe it. From the magical spread featuring the photos of Renata Litvinova by Gosha Rubchinskiy, to a detailed text on Euan Uglow by Paul Smith (yes, this Paul Smith), the latest issue of Luncheon is a feast. In all aspects: visual and intellectual. Check out Luncheon’s Instagram for some delightful teasers and peeks at their London events.

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

Chavs and Checks. Burberry AW17

September 19, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

There’s a new, very common tendency in fashion for speeding up the sales. While in the past, that was done by launching a new perfume, today, it’s making the clothes feel Vetements (with some smaller or bigger alternations). In case of Burberry, Christopher Bailey‘s strategy was to pin-up that popularly over-sized, ‘I don’t care how I look’ style to the brand’s biggest heritage – the Burberry check – that lately wasn’t a top-seller. The bootleg power has its impact, after all, and as the current consumer fancies looking cheap, that’s a very, very good shot.

Following the successful recipe of many brands, Bailey invited the ‘cool pack’ to collaborate in the new season. So we’ve got Gosha Rubchinskiy, who has already presented a glimpse of the Burberry collab in his recent menswear collection that took place last June in Saint Petersburg. The Russian photographer, known for capturing the post-Soviet skate youth and rave scene, also contributed to Burberry’s photography exhibition, ‘Here We Are‘, curated by Alasdair McLellan. But back to the clothes: not that the overall collection was bad. Quite opposite – it was one of the best Burberry collections in a while. Lots of heavy knitwear worn over sheer dresses (lovely, rustical mood of Scottish highlands); PVC jackets in pastel pink; and of course, checks covering everything from coats to the ‘chav’ inspired caps. The effect? Sure, I took out my well-forgotten, beige scarf for a walk. Looked at it with a ‘fresh’ eye. But if taking a closer look at that Gosha-coolness of this collection, Burberry’s new-season directions says as follows: ‘desperate’.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Kaliningrad. Gosha Rubchinskiy AW17

January 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

During men’s fashion month, Florence’ Pitti Uomo and Milan are the sure go-to destinations after London. However, the new-gen designers coming from the former Soviet Union are here to break fashion’s conventions. Gosha Rubchinskiy, skater-loving photographer and designer from the bloc, used to present his collections in Paris; for spring-summer 2017 he took us to Italy; and for autumn-winter 2017, he invited a couple of key editors and buyers to Kaliningrad. If someone’s unsure about the geographical position of the show’s location, that’s the capital of Russian province divided by Lithuania and Poland.

While Soccer World Cup 2018 is taking place here, Rubchinskiy had a perfect reason to take the industry to this rather off-fashion’s-radar place. Now, streetwear fanatics, prepare for jaw-dropping news: Gosha presented his Adidas Football collaboration, which is purely symbolic in regards of the country’s Cold War-era black market history, and Russian’s football team gear. The collaboration consists of pieces ranging from football shirts to hoodies and accessories, all baring the world ‘football’ in Cyrillic script. The clothes were styled in a classical, Gosha way – skate-fit sportswear, boy-from-the-hood tracksuits and ironically masculine suits. Synthetic-white sneakers and a blue shirt – Russian guy look from the 90s, just like the geometric, post-modern prints on the slouchy knits. So, are you in the team?

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Image | July 14, 2016July 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Men’s – To Pier Paolo and Kappa. Gosha Rubchinskiy SS17

June 17, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

London’s collections were all about diversity (Casely-Hayford, Wales Bonner) and edginess (J.W. Anderson). However, Pitti Uomo in Florence started with a much more realistic approach by this year’s guest designer and a Comme des Garçons protegé, Gosha Rubchinskiy. This Russian designer, who’s obsessed with Russian youth culture, is a street wear favourite for years, with his cyrillic slogans on sweatshirts and Reebok collaborations. But this season, the direction changed, just like the city in which the designer presented his menswear collection. Still oozing with a street-wise attitude of a post-Soviet bloc skater, Gosha looked further for inspiration and found a connection between his signature style, Italian 90s mega-brands and the controversial director, Pier Paolo Pasolini.

For the show, street-casted models stormed the runway set in a former tobacco factory, abandoned 15 years ago, and the setting was a key connection between Tuscany’s capital and socrealist fascinations. Gosha’s long-time friend and stylist, Lotta Volkova, said that the factory was “the only Soviet-looking building in Florence“. Feel like home, then. Moreover, these geek brands that invaded Europe and Moscow’s streets later on – Kappa and Fila – unsurprisingly appealed to Rubchinskiy. Firstly, it was once everyone’s dream to have a Fila logo on his or her chest, and that’s a distinct memory for the designer himself; secondly, this 2000-era thing for sportswear as daily wardrobe strongly matches Rubchinskiy’s aesthetics. Another Italian factor in this collection was Pasolini, whose sexually defiant films, like Teorema or Salo, or the 120 Days of Sodom, play an important role in envisioning spring-summer 2017 guy. Even a short film directed by Renata Litvinova was created for this occasion, dedicated “To Pier Paolo.” Pasolini, a communist (weak point for Russia-loving designer), intended to show deviant view on both men and women – so, no wonder why there was something disturbing about the first two, bald-headed boys, wearing pin-stripe suits without a shirt under. Mafioso vibes, quite aggressive – note the chains on their necks and wrists. They could star in Pier Paolo’s film for sure – as Italian murders, maybe?

Definitely, Italian culture and Soviet youth are not your average, fashion combination. The designer brought the unexpected, with new silhouettes. Reviving Pasolini’s art and the old-good logomania (Kappa girls were literally placed everywhere here) helped developing Rubchinskiy’s boyish look. And that’s good for him – surely, he won’t fall into monotony of sweatpants and Instagram-beloved meaning of the word “hype”.