Kid At Heart. Helmstedt AW20

In Copenhagen, in the sea of one-dimensional minimalism, there is a chance to find a true gem. Helmstedt is the best example of a Danish label that doesn’t follow the local aesthetic. Emilie Helmstedt builds her own sets every season, finding inspiration in her dreams and her childhood. Flanked by her bright paper sculptures, the designer is like Alice in a wonderland of her own making. For autumn-winter 2020, the label brought the guests to the city’s French Embassy, where she juxtaposed the ornate tapestries and gilded trimmings with giant papier-mâché teacups and teapots, even a golden spoon. She is a kid at heart, and though this collection stayed true to that aspect of her brand, her fall 2020 clothes represented a bit of a maturation. Take the fitted knit dresses with wavy, Pucci-like patterns and a covetable quilted pink velvet coat in a brushstroke pattern. Helmstedt also introduced crochet vests and sacks, which make sense in the context of her DIY sensibility. Those are clothes to have fun in.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Fantasy. Helmstedt SS20

Hello Copenhagen! The Danish capital’s fashion week started with an actual fantasy. I wrote about Emilie Helmstedt‘s brand not a while ago, so I was really excited to see what she’s up to for spring-summer 2020. In a surreal venue filled with papier mache XXL toadstools and mossy hills, a parade of forest fairies took a stroll to show off their gorgeous dresses and berry-picking-ready outfits. Whether we’re speaking about the floor-sweeping silk gown in purple or one of those frocks in the most adorable strawberry print, next season, according to Helmstedt, is all about fields, nature and gardening. And maybe a bit of magic, too – there’s something whimsy-witchy about this collection. But not in Ari Aster’s Midsommar way, though!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.