Never Enough. Loewe SS19

October 4, 2018October 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s free; it’s sensual; it’s satin; it’s a mass of textures. I feel this is what the brand is becoming—its DNA,” said Jonathan Anderson of his latest Loewe collection. “I had the idea about people walking through a gallery space who are individuals but connected by a common thread.” How complex that might sound, Anderson’s spring-summer 2019 looked much, much more spontaneous and relaxed. At some points, even too random. A hand-weaved ankle-length dress work with a leather harness necklace and combat, suede boots; peasant shirt in cotton over a voluminous skirt; loosely fitted tuxedo in beige (Philo fans, take a look at it); a thick-looking, knitted sweater in orange styled with cargo pants. There’s no specific direction in that collection and it actually looks seasonless. The designer always implements a lot of craftsmanship that makes Loewe’s clothes so incredible and beautiful in touch, and this season he kept his priorities untouched. I’m 100% sure that each of the new season pieces, from the fringed bags to asymmetrically cut gowns, looks stunning when viewed in person. But after browsing the entire show, each outfit one by one, something just didn’t entirely click for me. Maybe that intended ‘lack of edit’ makes the overall effect, simply speaking, too messy?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Touch. JW Anderson SS19

September 17, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

J.W. Anderson‘s spring-summer 2019 collection is one of those harder to comprehend, sophisticated line-ups. The designer, Jonathan Anderson, “wanted something a bit more bohemian.” He continued backstage of his show, saying that he wanted “a celebration of fashion. Everything with fluidity to it, a patch-worked, somehow“. The complexity of those garments, or rather, the way they were put together, was deeply rooted in the multiple combinations of textures, fabrics, colours and so-called ‘fashion conventions’. Flowing maxi-dresses were styled with white gloves and over-sized t-shirts, while the over-sized shoulders were even bigger than usual, ultimately distorting the proportions. Pin-stripe shirting looked soft and feminine, meanwhile the ‘unfinished’ hems of skirts brought rawness. This collection was also close to Anderson’s work at Loewe – here, we also had a great appreciation for craftsmanship, which tactility you can only truly feel by touch. At a first glance it seemed to me that every element of this collection is somehow ‘in conflict’. But then, taking a second look, made me realise that that’s the essence of J.W. Anderson, as a person, and as a brand. Edgy, even disturbing, gradually becomes beautiful.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

To Cherish and Wear. Loewe AW18

March 6, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

What does Loewe‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection stands for? The balance between a working and private life. This woman might equally wear her grey shirt-dress to the office, as well as to her weekend house (that has a lovely chimney spot, by the way). Actually, Jonathan Anderson is about to deliver all the needs Phoebe Philo will no longer be here for next autumn – jaw-dropping shearling coats; sophisticated, yet comfortable eveningwear; business-smart tailoring and shirting. The last looks had something of curated artiness that Anderson likes to inject into the house. See the multi-coloured thread inserts and fringing present in the maxi-skirts and gowns. To conclude, that’s fashion to cherish, and wear!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Slowing Down. JW Anderson AW18

February 18, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

The autumn-winter 2018 collection from J.W. Anderson was the first time the eponymous label showed womenswear and menswear together. Jonathan Anderson just felt it’s the right time to decrease the number of collections per year and… slow down the pace. This certain ‘chill’ has its reflection in the collection’s mood, which is a compelling set of over-sized, laid-back knits, ruffled blouses in paisley and maxi-dresses. In other words, nothing ground-breaking is going on in here – but does it make this collection less intriguing? Absolutely no. There was something very sensual about this offering – the subtly sheer pants and trench coats worn on bare body are just that.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Traveller. Loewe SS18

October 1, 2017October 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Doing a travel-themed collection is risky, because the designer might easily slip down the pitfall of clichés. But such terms like ‘oriental’, ‘cowboy’ or ‘tribal’ don’t match Jonathan Anderson‘s sophisticated line-up for Loewe. “I want something that people will want to go and touch,” he told the press after the show. Actually, you really want to touch these clothes. The richness of textures is just insane. And it’s even more absorbing, when you realise that each piece has its story, an entire cultural identity behind it. Like a de luxe globe-trotter, the Loewe woman has African and South American traditional handicraft all over her wardrobe; the woven pieces were made according to traditional Peruvian techniques, while fringed sarong skirt seemed to come straight from Argentina. She’s been to Morocco, too, from where the season’s must-have elf-toed sneakers origin – Anderson based the idea on woven sandals coming from that country. Again, another designer would carelessly go a step further and touch the soft topic of cultural appropriation. Anderson plays fair, he finds inspiration and does it with great respect.