J.W. Anderson‘s spring-summer 2019 collection is one of those harder to comprehend, sophisticated line-ups. The designer, Jonathan Anderson, “wanted something a bit more bohemian.” He continued backstage of his show, saying that he wanted “a celebration of fashion. Everything with fluidity to it, a patch-worked, somehow“. The complexity of those garments, or rather, the way they were put together, was deeply rooted in the multiple combinations of textures, fabrics, colours and so-called ‘fashion conventions’. Flowing maxi-dresses were styled with white gloves and over-sized t-shirts, while the over-sized shoulders were even bigger than usual, ultimately distorting the proportions. Pin-stripe shirting looked soft and feminine, meanwhile the ‘unfinished’ hems of skirts brought rawness. This collection was also close to Anderson’s work at Loewe – here, we also had a great appreciation for craftsmanship, which tactility you can only truly feel by touch. At a first glance it seemed to me that every element of this collection is somehow ‘in conflict’. But then, taking a second look, made me realise that that’s the essence of J.W. Anderson, as a person, and as a brand. Edgy, even disturbing, gradually becomes beautiful.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.