“It’s free; it’s sensual; it’s satin; it’s a mass of textures. I feel this is what the brand is becoming—its DNA,” said Jonathan Anderson of his latest Loewe collection. “I had the idea about people walking through a gallery space who are individuals but connected by a common thread.” How complex that might sound, Anderson’s spring-summer 2019 looked much, much more spontaneous and relaxed. At some points, even too random. A hand-weaved ankle-length dress work with a leather harness necklace and combat, suede boots; peasant shirt in cotton over a voluminous skirt; loosely fitted tuxedo in beige (Philo fans, take a look at it); a thick-looking, knitted sweater in orange styled with cargo pants. There’s no specific direction in that collection and it actually looks seasonless. The designer always implements a lot of craftsmanship that makes Loewe’s clothes so incredible and beautiful in touch, and this season he kept his priorities untouched. I’m 100% sure that each of the new season pieces, from the fringed bags to asymmetrically cut gowns, looks stunning when viewed in person. But after browsing the entire show, each outfit one by one, something just didn’t entirely click for me. Maybe that intended ‘lack of edit’ makes the overall effect, simply speaking, too messy?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.