Pre-Party. Molly Goddard SS19

September 16, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

For me, London fashion week kicked off with Molly Goddard‘s wonderful spring-summer 2019 outing. Goddard is known for her carefree way of staging a show – his season, we’ve had a Mediterranean vacation of sorts. Market stalls were set up alongside the runway, designed by her talented set-designer mother, Sarah Edwards. Some of the models, other than wearing frivolous daisy dresses and sweet gingham print short-sleeved coats, carried a salad. “It’s that moment when you’re ready for the party, but your mum asks you to go to the market”, the designer said backstage. All dressed up, but still in the ‘organising’ mode. Other than Molly’s beloved, signature tulle (which seemed be more down-to-earth that usual, not that colour-explosive), there were lots of pieces trimmed with frills. Take Edie Cambell’s second look, that white, mini-shirt-dress cut with a plunging neckline, with the meringue-ish detailing at the hem. That’s a perfect summer dress, no?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Queenie. Richard Quinn AW18

February 21, 2018February 21, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Some young designers appear on everyone’s lips thanks to their strikingly unique talent. Some luckily get to the mainstream by dressing a celeb, or rather an Insta-girl. Meanwhile, Richard Quinn‘s phenomenon got elevated through an exceptional combination: the guy has the talent. And, the guy had Queen Elisabeth II in his show’s f-row. I suppose the biggest names in the industry would be life-fulfilled after such an honour. For Richard, it’s just the beginning.

Quinn is the first recipient of Her Majesty’s British Design Award that is here to raise and support UK’s emerging fashion stars. With his knack for collage-ing and manufacturing prints in the most fantastic ways, there’s no wonder why the designer won. “It all feels a bit surreal,” Quinn exclaimed backstage of the show. “I only found out a few days ago that I’d won. When I saw the blue cushion on the front row, I knew it was real; I knew she was coming.” The emphasis that Richard puts on prints and patterns is impressive not only because he does wonderful ball gowns with a modern twist or floral-shocker puffas. It’s the sense of unity he builds among young designers and fashion students in London with his print studio in Peckham – it’s there, where he shares and lets for an open-access to printwork. And who would have thought that he has graduated with a master’s from Central Saint Martins just a few years ago? A bright, bright way future is there for Quinn, I believe.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Joy of Sex. Christopher Kane AW18

February 20, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

When everyone’s sensitive towards the topic, Christopher Kane says it out loud: let’s talk about sex. The autumn-winter 2018 collection, similarly to the last season’s domestic kinkiness theme, enters the fields of sensuality like no other. The Joy of Sex, the 1972 illustrated guide of sexual positions and techniques by Alex Comfort, was the starting point for Kane. Some of the most expressive illustrations coming from the original version of the book appeared on the dresses, while mottos – ‘More Joy’, for instance – appeared on black knits and sweatshirts. The collection holds even more of ‘those’ moments, just slightly more subtly. Black leather was used for the coats and mini-skirts with lace inserts. Paneled, zippered dresses let for displaying or concealing different parts of the body – can be worn during the day and the night, how practical! Of course, Kane has in offer some less daring pieces, like chic suites or embellished midi-skirts. Still, the ‘provocative’ pieces are the strongest points of Christopher’s eroticism-in-fashion conversation.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Bailey’s Pride. Burberry SS18

February 20, 2018February 20, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

So, what to expect from a designer’s final collection, especially after a 17 year-long tenure as a creative director and the person in charge for the brand’s business side? Well, pretty much anything. Christopher Bailey‘s last collection at Burberry was meant to be a blast. And there really are the reasons to praise the designer this season. “My final collection here at Burberry is dedicated to – and in support of – some of the best and brightest organisations supporting LGBTQ+ youth around the world. There has never been a more important time to say that in our diversity lies our strength, and our creativity.” Pride and optimism was reflected in everything, from the puffas to sweatshirts covered in raibow. The Rainbow check, the latest iteration of Burberry’s most iconic symbol and designed as part of Christopher’s dedication of his last collection to LGBTQ+ communities, featured throughout the show. It was nice seeing that a brand like Burberry, so established and all, goes for an important matter!

Still, I’m on fence with this collection. The capsule of reissued archive pieces from the 1980s and 1990s rereleased felt new to Burberry, but the idea is quite pinched from Gucci’s current bootleg obsession. In overall, the collection was more Alessandro Michele, than Christopher Bailey. There were some clear signs of Demna Gvasalia and Phoebe Philo inspired tricks there and there – like over-sized, Vetements-y hoodies or Céline-ish lace dresses and plastic bags. In other words, I think the label tried hard this season to be relevant and look 2018. Nevertheless, Bailey had his big, last word to say with the collection. Where will we see him next? The time will tell.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Lady Bird. Molly Goddard AW18

February 19, 2018February 19, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

While looking at Molly Goddard’s autumn-winter 2018 collection, I was just impressed with the way this young designer does everything so effortlessly, with so much joy. And, simultaneously, with success. Although Goddard usually goes for party-themed venues, this season the set was an industrial kitchen, probably inspired with those in hotels. Models stopped for a bottle of wine, casually, or a chat. Was it an unofficial after-party scene we all witness from time to time? “It’s where I always end up at a party,” the designer said. “Usually that’s the best part of the night.” Few seasons ago, Molly stormed the London fashion week with her signature, over-sized tulle dresses and a cool, ‘what a girl likes’ mood. Right now, the designer moves towards new territories of 90s crop-tops and gingham, so that she doesn’t feel trapped in a garment she is known for making so well in her studio. “It gets very boring to be confined to the pretty bracket,” she said. “Being girlie is fine, but I think that girlie is often misinterpreted as wishy-washy or prim. I’m the opposite of prim.”

Still, it was the ‘dress’ part of the show that really got everyone talking. The last looks, kept in happy shades of pink and orange, somehow reminded me of Christina from Lady Bird – the main character in Greta Gerwig’s debutant film, starring the phenomenal Saoirse Ronan. Just like Lady Bird, the Molly Goddard girl is a beautiful soul in the middle of a difficult world. Still, she’s got balls to go against the flow. Was that an unintentional tribute to all the Lady Birds out there?