Victorian Girl. Simone Rocha AW18

Slide1-kopia 3

Except for Matty Bovan‘s collection which was a bomb, it seems that the London designers prefer to revisit their archives this season. There’s no way Simone Rocha can go wrong with her signature dresses with ‘leg of mutton’ sleeves and meticulous embroidries – her customers adore them. Even though the collection was filled with Rocha classics, his time around, the designer immersed herselft into Victorian-era fashion and brought lots of bows, ruffles and ornaments that richly decorated the bustlines.  Although Victoriana is a hard thing to do for contemporary designers (falling into the ‘too literal’ trap…), Simone pulls it off like no other, making her delightful gowns look precious, but not over-dressed or forced.

Slide07Slide08Slide09Slide10Slide11

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Slowing Down. JW Anderson AW18

Slide1-kopia

The autumn-winter 2018 collection from J.W. Anderson was the first time the eponymous label showed womenswear and menswear together. Jonathan Anderson just felt it’s the right time to decrease the number of collections per year and… slow down the pace. This certain ‘chill’ has its reflection in the collection’s mood, which is a compelling set of over-sized, laid-back knits, ruffled blouses in paisley and maxi-dresses. In other words, nothing ground-breaking is going on in here – but does it make this collection less intriguing? Absolutely no. There was something very sensual about this offering – the subtly sheer pants and trench coats worn on bare body are just that.

Slide01Slide02Slide03Slide04Slide06Slide05

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Experimental Dandy. Hillier Bartley SS18

Slide1

Sometimes, even the most costly production of a fashion show can’t be compared to one single look coming straight out of a silent look-book. In this case, I mean Hillier Bartley‘s beige tuxedo look. The jacket with shoulder-pads was slightly misshaped, giving it a cool, nonchalant manner; the pants were cropped and given a semi-Banana silhouette to keep it equally dandy. Styled with white socks and matching-colour pointy-toe shoes, that might be one of the best (and most striking in its actual simplicity) looks I’ve seen this season.

Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley have introduced their woman as a refined, but off-beat persona, few seasons ago – the story goes on, but this time in incredibly tempting shades of lilac, saucy red and dripping liquid gold. Zebra-patterned velvet frocks and handbags with lots of fringes were another clue of Bartley and Hillier’s love for a decadent kind of chic. The designers, known for rather loosely-fitted garments, seemed to be experimental about the forms of garments in their new collection – that’s why, they topped blazers and pants with fishnet to see how the silhouettes change and evolve. The effect? Bold.

Slide1-kopiaSlide2Slide3Slide4Slide5

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Domesticated Fetishes. Christopher Kane SS18

Slide1

Christopher Kane‘s spring-summer 2018 collection was an exercise in what’s domesticated, what’s fetishistic. The designer, who never disapoints in creating some of the most unorthodox fashion statements, had a story on his mind. A story of a pristine lady, very proper and neat, a 100% perfectionist, who has an emotional breakdown. Her life is domesticated, but she feels a need for sexual freedom – after all, she’s not that innocent. From elegant, 40s housecoats to desultory dusters, the inspirations behind Kane’s new collection span from absolutely refined couture-detailing to the most common household objects. The collection was not only a daring stance on sexuality found in day-to-day fetishes, but also a nod to British class boundaries that have affected women for centuries. It’s as if a housewive went bad, very bad, and fell an affection for flirty satin and lace lingerie. And she has certainly put her hands on John Kacere‘s coffee-book, that probably counted as the dirtiest gift given from her husband’s boss. The artist, whose artworks were developed as prints for Christopher’s dresses and t-shirts, almost solely devoted himself to idealized depictions of the female body (sometimes in lingerie, sometimes not). That’s a naughty tale, indeed.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Rough and Sweet. Marques Almeida SS18

Slide1-kopia

Roughness and sweetness collide in today’s femininity, and that was quite clearly shown in Marques Almeida spring-summer 2018 collection. The designers were intrigued in womanhood and its many faces, that’s why their show embraced many personalities. Dolly Parton’s song were on the soundtrack, so no wonder why Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida focused on the all-American classic: denim. From re-invented Texan Tuxedos to torn-up trousers, there were many options to choose from. Dolly Parton is woman to love and respect for many reasons. So did the designers think of Joan of Arc. The metallic gilets (worn over pink smocks) and armour-like total-looks were the main, smartly played nods to her powerful appearance that definitely fell into the first camp – roughness. But if you really think of a 2017 woman, the extra-large shoulder bags are here to support on daily-basis. Nicely covered in floral jacquard, they are both practical and pretty.

Slide06Slide08Slide07Slide09Slide11Slide10Slide12

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.