Touch. JW Anderson SS19

September 17, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

J.W. Anderson‘s spring-summer 2019 collection is one of those harder to comprehend, sophisticated line-ups. The designer, Jonathan Anderson, “wanted something a bit more bohemian.” He continued backstage of his show, saying that he wanted “a celebration of fashion. Everything with fluidity to it, a patch-worked, somehow“. The complexity of those garments, or rather, the way they were put together, was deeply rooted in the multiple combinations of textures, fabrics, colours and so-called ‘fashion conventions’. Flowing maxi-dresses were styled with white gloves and over-sized t-shirts, while the over-sized shoulders were even bigger than usual, ultimately distorting the proportions. Pin-stripe shirting looked soft and feminine, meanwhile the ‘unfinished’ hems of skirts brought rawness. This collection was also close to Anderson’s work at Loewe – here, we also had a great appreciation for craftsmanship, which tactility you can only truly feel by touch. At a first glance it seemed to me that every element of this collection is somehow ‘in conflict’. But then, taking a second look, made me realise that that’s the essence of J.W. Anderson, as a person, and as a brand. Edgy, even disturbing, gradually becomes beautiful.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Pre-Party. Molly Goddard SS19

September 16, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

For me, London fashion week kicked off with Molly Goddard‘s wonderful spring-summer 2019 outing. Goddard is known for her carefree way of staging a show – his season, we’ve had a Mediterranean vacation of sorts. Market stalls were set up alongside the runway, designed by her talented set-designer mother, Sarah Edwards. Some of the models, other than wearing frivolous daisy dresses and sweet gingham print short-sleeved coats, carried a salad. “It’s that moment when you’re ready for the party, but your mum asks you to go to the market”, the designer said backstage. All dressed up, but still in the ‘organising’ mode. Other than Molly’s beloved, signature tulle (which seemed be more down-to-earth that usual, not that colour-explosive), there were lots of pieces trimmed with frills. Take Edie Cambell’s second look, that white, mini-shirt-dress cut with a plunging neckline, with the meringue-ish detailing at the hem. That’s a perfect summer dress, no?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Designers of SS19

August 9, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who to watch in the upcoming fashion month? I’ve decided to select the six designers that you’ve got to keep on your radar for spring-summer 2019. So, while we’re all waiting for September (and it’s lovely breeze), take a look at the names that will be everywhere in just a couple of weeks!

Richard Quinn

His autumn-winter 2018 show in London was attended by the Queen, while the statement floral prints and exaggerated, lady-like volumes are the season’s absolute best-sellers. Those scarf maxi-dresses and puffas are the new classics. Yes, they are! Richard’s show in September is highly anticipated, just as the major debuts at the historical maisons (which I’m quite sceptic about…). Can’t wait to see which direction the designer takes this time. One thing’s quite sure – Quinn’s love for prints, which he produces himself at his studio, isn’t a one-time phenomenon.

Pyer Moss

Kerby Jean Raymond makes activism a crucial component of his brand, Pyer Moss, being vocal about current problems that America faces today – from the current president to widespread social injustice. In his autumn-winter 2018 collection, the designer took black cowboys of the 19th century, including one of the first rodeo stars of the era, Bill Pickett, as inspiration. Moreover, that was the first season where Kerby sent out a line-up of womenswear, which consisted of streetwear sensibility, enormous knitwear and Wild West shirts. AND, that yellow Goddess dress as well. So good. But what else makes Pyer Moss a label to observe is the cultural diversity it embraces, not just in terms of model casting. Others are more than welcome to follow that path.

Matthew Adams Dolan

Dolan’s denim jackets and signature shirt-dresses with exaggerated cuffs are perceived as the new ‘basics’. Why? Noting their couture-level tailoring, Matthew’s fashion is realistic and wearable, but far, far from trivial. It’s not about few good styling tricks or a thoroughly contrived Instagram ‘image’ that fuels the label. Dolan let’s the clothes do the talking for themselves, which is especially rare in the industry. The talented, young designer as well revises American fashion, creating the ultimate classics of 2018 (and for years ahead). SZA and Rihanna approve, just as the fact that Matthew became one of the finalists of this year’s LVMH prize. You better watch that spot.

Molly Goddard

While looking at Molly Goddard’s last collection, I was just impressed with the way this young designer does everything so effortlessly, with so much joy. During the autumn-winter 2018 show, models stopped for a bottle of wine or a chat, in the middle of the kitchen-themed venue. Few seasons ago, Molly stormed the London fashion week with her over-sized tulle dresses and a cool, ‘what a girl likes’ mood. Now, the designer moves towards new territories of 90s crop-tops and gingham, so that she doesn’t feel trapped by her already beloved signature.

Marine Serre

Manic Soul Machine is how the designer intriguingly titled her first runway collection – a cross-cultural, cross-everything dialogue. While demanding fashion seems to be a deficit today, Serre wants you to reflect on everything, from politics and spirituality to sex and society. Her distinct crescent moon print appeared on nearly everything (athletic bodysuits, shoes, headbands), but the designer’s ‘Futurewear’ as well involved plastic raincoats and motocross jackets.  There’s something elusive about Marine Serre’s fashion – it’s hard to explain in one word. It’s ‘love’, ’emotions’, ‘future’, ‘intelligence’ – words that rarely can be used to describe clothes. However, they fit Marine’s work perfectly. Can’t wait to see what’s coming from this designer, really. Paris fashion week, prepare yourself!

Magda Butrym

Although this Polish designer releases her look-books near the time the clothes hit the stores, I still consider her to be one of the names to watch for spring-summer 2019. Butrym’s autumn collection is largely inspired by the Wild West style and country music, but nothing’s too literal in here. The floral mini-dresses with over-sized shoulders and feather stoles are just a slight node to Dolly Parton’s over-the-top style. Rather think of a prairie girl hitting Paris (but this Paris, not the one in Texas). Other than that, we’ve got red velvet, meticulously embellished coats and gorgeous boots with attachable brooches (!). Hot.

That’s my list. And how about you? Have you got a name (or two) that you’re very keen to follow this season?

All collages by Edward Kanarecki.

That Woman. Hillier Bartley Resort 2019

July 21, 2018July 20, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

What’s Hillier Bartley like for resort 2019? Well, it’s definitely not about one aesthetic or any central idea. Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier chose to play with their signatures (chic loungewear, for instance) this season, adding some very unexpected twists to the collection. Distorted, Saville-Row-esque tailoring styled with thick turtlenecks or coming in emerald silk; equally deconstructed shirts with, what it seems, clashed double sleeves; tie-dyed, high-rise pants. The enormously big taffeta bows on pencil skirts and strapless tops had something of fancy nightclubbing, straight out of the 80s, just like the latex pussy-bow piece. Oh, and of course that suit. “We call it the Brexit—or the anti-Brexit—suit,” said Bartley. “I don’t know where it came from, but it felt right”. Accessories, that are largely Hillier’s job, span from the classic bunny clutch (in new colours) to boxy Cassette, a bag injected with lovely, vintage feeling.

Conclusion: what’s most fascinating about Hillier Bartley – the brand exists for few seasons now – is that the designers created a distinct look that can’t be mistaken with any other brand. You look and you know it’s the Hillier Bartley woman – mature, kind of mysterious, but not taking herself too seriously. She can go for both, a cocktail in the new posh spot, or sip beer in an old school pub.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Spiritual. Wales Bonner SS19

June 24, 2018June 24, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

To present a brilliant collection, no major celebrities are needed in the front row, and there’s no need to pay thousands of euros for the show venue. Ask Grace Wales Bonner, who has just released a look-book with her spring-summer 2019 collection for men (and women). The main point behind the season was spirituality and the seek for inner peace, something the designer has been interested in for a while. Wales Bonner found Ram Dass, one of the first people who brought ideas of yoga and meditation to a Western audience, as the key for that relaxed, yet oozing with mystique line-up. Inspirational texts from the spiritual teacher’s book appear printed on loosely fit t-shirts, cotton shirts and over-sized yoga pants. Some read such profound quotes as: “The stillness. The calmness. The fulfillment. When you make love and experience the ecstasy of unity.” But the collection as well has a less laid-back, more celebratory side. Some of the pieces were hand-embellished with shiny sequins and were a nod to craftsmanship originating from India. Beautiful.