Perverse Innocence. Simone Rocha SS17

September 20, 2016September 20, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Staying true to her romantic spirit, Simone Rocha staged her spring-summer 2017 show in Southwark Cathedral, where the models walked down the gothic aisle. The venue matched the charming sublimity of Rocha’s latest line of delicate textures and girlie silhouettes, and it smoothly worked with the collection’s British accents (similarly to Gucci’s memorable anglomaniac resort 2017) and the designer’s long-term inspirations. Voluminous poplin-cotton shirts were layered with Prince of Wales checks; a classic trench-coat has never looked like a Louise Bourgeois sculpture before. While working on the collection, the designer took a glance at baptismal gowns and communion dresses, reworking them in authentic broderie anglaise lace. But don’t expect to see a traditional wedding dress here. Simone Rocha’s fascination with perversion oozes in those not-so-bride-ready gowns. Although we’re talking about sacred and holy, the designer’s pieces are far from innoncent. Sheer organza sheath with elongated sleeves shyly exposed nipples, while a tulle skirt with embroidered flowers showed some leg… accidentally. Note the models’ patent wellies and synthetic-white, rubber gloves. Red lips and wet hair. Rocha’s Catholic girls coming from good village families are naughty. In a very elusive, gentle way.

Toxic Paradise. AV Robertson SS17

September 19, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s like paradise gone bad,” said Amie Robertson after her second runway collection, supported by Fashion East. “An ‘other’, magical land where the flowers that sprout are toxic and taking over. The silver metallic PVC also gives it a space-like element, like being on another planet.” Embroidery and embellishments are A.V. Robertson‘s signatures – that’s why it’s intriguing to see how the London-based designer evolves creatively in those two, painstaking fields. Inspired with 50s horror films like Forbidden Planet, the collection focuses on a vision of a tropical paradise kept in a toxic, dark aura. The season’s look – a transparent, turtleneck blouse with a slit, midi-skirt – is ultra-feminine, while the embellished alien-like florals give it a sci-fi twist. A slip-dress also went through Robertson’s botanic makeover, all in fish-net mesh and fluorescent crystals.

Female Contrast. Hillier Bartley AW16

September 10, 2016September 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tom Ford might have just started his new retail model – but Hillier Bartley isn’t new in this topic. Entering September, it’s the perfect (and most practical) time to think of refreshing your autumn wardrobe. Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are here to help, in time, with their see-now, buy-now collection. The British duo has already built a ‘set’ of signatures: banana pants which do look flattering; top-notch suiting in Savile Row manner; feminine dresses with chic tassell-scarves. Also, Hillier Bartley is recognized for its Anglomania attire: at a first glance, the idea is based on the wardrobe of an English-aristocrat, who belongs to an gentlemen’s club. But then, the elegance blurs with Bowie-esque, out-of-this-world knack. With that said, don’t forget Hillier Bartley is a womenswear label, filled with women’s clothes created by women.

For autumn-winter 2016, the designers went for flea-market cool, which is so timeless and eternally relevant in London. One of the coats virtually looks like a re-cut and re-shaped Persian rug. A satin robe is worn as an evening dress according to the designers, with a pair of moccasins. Icy blue, velvet suit with a black, ribbed turtleneck underneath is a total-look worth investing. The intricately embroidered gown is a cherry on the cake – I’m obsessed with the way the oriental motif contrasts with the entire collection filled with feather elements, leopard spots and romantic, Fleetwood Mac flair. Oh, and the bags line (Hillier’s part) is blooming. From ‘Bunny’ clutches to collar-box bags with lilac tassels, the range is wide and… yummy.

Men’s – Calm Men. Wales Bonner SS17

June 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Grace Wales Bonner, 25, the London-based menswear designer, has been announced as LVMH Prize 2016 winner (along Vejas Kruszewski, who won the second prize), gaining the a major back-up for her eponymous brand. But in fact that’s just one of the reasons I’m writing about her today. The latter is her latest, break-through outing during London Fashion Week, which is pure poetry. When creating her label, Bonner’s main aim was to break the stereotype of black male fashion as aggressive, popularly seen in posture of hip-hop sweatpants and rapper’s gold chains. Wales Bonner’s work focuses on black male sexuality, unconventional masculine identity, and mainly afro-American cultural experience.

With a background of growing up in South East London and having a Jamaican dad, Grace looks forward to show the masses a new diversity in fashion, but from a totally different perspective – it’s much calmer, gentler, not as bold as in Stella Jean‘s way. This season, she was inspired particularly by Ethiopia’s emperor from the 30s, Haile Selassie, who was famous for blurring the African rituals with his own, military coronations and “style”. Tailoring, the season’s ultimate highlight, was embellished with crystals, all in traditional crotchet and meticulous embroidery. Her decorated, slightly dandy-ish men are accompanied by female models, who wear similarly androgynous pieces – gender fluidity is nothing new to us in London. But according to Wales Bonner’s vision, male beauty becomes something much more unexpected, yet highly signature. Her debut runway show was a bomb – and with LVMH’s funds, Grace will surely keep doing her thing.

Save Meadham Kirchhoff!

June 15, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

When Meadham Kirchhoff stopped doing street-casted shows and closed their brand, it was a very, very bad omen for the fashion industry, which, first things first, should be fuelled by creativity. Benjamin Kirchhoff and Edward Meadham were creating the boldest, the happiest and the heartiest label in London, or even in the entire world – but then, “debts have caught up” and this relatively small, studio-based label couldn’t survive the pressure of this sadly, too corporate world.

If that wasn’t bad enough – it appeared that the designers were forced out of their studio, and Meadham Kirchhoff’s archive was confiscated by the succeeding occupier. Remember the glamorous pieces from their gothic past, all those vinyl coats and naughty, glittered bodysuits? They aren’t owned by the designers since that moment. But, heads up – there’s a chance for Meadham Kirchhoff archive to be retrieved and be admired in its full grace. Curator Shonagh Marshall has worked with Edward and Benjamin, and selected around 50 pieces that will be donated to museums. As one of the designers said “we had an impact on culture and on British and international fashion, and we want these clothes to live beyond the context of a personal wardrobe; we always wanted Meadham Kirchhoff clothes to be seen, not something to just have and never wear.” The selection, was priced at £15,000 – this is a sum that can buy back 12 years of the duo’s work. If you mind / care / want to help – I strongly advise you to donate a pound or a hundred here. Let’s support British fashion history and Meadham Kirchhoff creative legacy, which indeed changed a lot!