Men’s – Contemporary Uniform. Casely Hayford AW16

January 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

If talking of London’s menswear brands, Casely Hayford is the closest to my heart, style and wardrobe. I just love how this fashion-family duo, Charlie and Joe, reconstruct daily basics into something exciting and beautiful. The best example is the MA1 inspired parka above. Definitely, this piece totally changes the meaning of a jacket / coat – it’s both functional and mind-blowing with its elongated silhouette and the “unfinished” manner. Masterfully styled with these sleek, burgundy pants and a simple black top, this look might be called the contemporary uniform. Just like most of the collection – see the patched-work denim, psychedelic prints on casual suits and uber-cool sweat-shirts. To give a military swing to the collection, Casely Hayford nailed two looks with an ornamented, officer collar – a bold detail which makes this collection blur the everyday clothes with something much more bold and unexpected.

Modular. JW Anderson Pre-Fall’16

December 20, 2015December 20, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson never fails to deliver a provoking and literally mind-blowing collection for his own, eponymous label. For pre-fall 2016, the J.W. Anderson woman is continuing her wardrobe musings from the summer outing – the remarkable, leg-of-mutton sleeves and bra-like crop-tops blurred with the stereotypical appeal of fish-net tights. “Modular” is what he called his lookbook, meaning the way the silhouettes overlap each other and the Edwardian-like sleeves which are a minimal nod to the past. However, “modular” might also mean the interesting way Jonathan mixes different textures and elements – strips of fur are combined with cloud-like pillows, creating a very sculptural jacket. Just to make it even more extraordinary, take a note of the shoes – the nylon covered, 90’s studded boots make this collection even more… unexpected. And surely one-of-a-kind!

All About Helen Bullock

December 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

If you’ve been reading my blog for a while, you might noticed that I had an interview column (by the way, I am planning to revive it in 2016!) and I wrote about the super talented, London-based artist Helen Bullock. Her vivid fashion illustrations and bold prints felt so full of life and attitude. And now, this unique personality launched her own bags line, printed with her signature vibrant prints. The limited edition collection is a selection of custom canvas tote bags, with hand stitched leather straps, and contrast print pockets. Hand printed with bright and bold gestural marks and her favourite colour pallete including, Lizard, Grape, and Traffic Cone Orange, these totes are roomy, and “even roomier for the weekend” as she told me! Alongside these, there is a collection of Limited Edition Giclee Prints – all in editions of 20. The original fashion illustrations were seen in magazines including AnOther, and CNN Style. You can buy all of these goods in her new on-line store, www.helenbullock.com

I feel Helen’s must-haves are good tips for arty Christmas presents! And, you can read our interview here.

I love this Vivienne Westwood illustration so much.

#2015 – Hillier Bartley

December 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Coming from the British designer duo, Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley, Hillier Bartley is a brand which breaks the industry codes. In February of this year, the first AW15 collection of Hillier Bartley was quietly presented to a few buyers; then, a mysterious Instagram account appeared which instantly felt like an intimate, designer mood-board. But how the new vision of these two contemporary designers really look like? The collection, just like the brand, reflects the edgy, slightly decadent style of the designers – it also celebrates British tailoring with a feminine twist. The tuxedo scarves, floor-sweeping dresses and knits gave the overall effect a seductive softness / slouchiness. Bartley has recently stated in the autumn issue of i-D, “as you get older you become so much more in tune with your own sexuality. This collection I feel is the sexiest thing I’ve ever done.” Even though it’s filled with men’s basics, it’s elegant, and indeed, sexy at the same time. Warm wool coats, fringed bags, satin blouses (“A satin blouse with no bra! That reminded me immediately of Madonna in a blue Gucci silk… Oh yeah, you could see her nips. That’s what I like” Hillier described) and lady-like silk gowns – and all of that kept in a moody, nostalgic manner.

But what makes this brand even more outstanding is the way the women behind it do the “business”. As the industry is in a constant marathon and it doesn’t seem to slow its pace, Hillier and Bartley don’t want their baby-brand to become a fussy institution. “At the moment I feel like I could happily not do another show. I don’t think it fits what we’re a trying to do. I would much prefer to show someone, and talk about it myself and have them trying things on and feeling it” the designers said in the interview. Love this hearty and humane approach so much, as it’s frequently missed in today’s fashion. Wishing the designers to keep up with their exceptional project in 2016!

System is the Smartest

November 16, 2015November 16, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lately, nearly every fashion magazine which can be considered as less ambitious or as a very niche one, pretends to make art out of celebrities. But what about the real stars of fashion? And I am not talking about the models this time. I mean the designers and creatives, who make this industry propel. When I opened the very first page of the newest System Magazine, I felt a relief that Justin Bieber won’t be the unexpected “fashion icon”. Reading the absolutely honest and down-to-earth Raf Simons interview by Cathy Horyn was a pleasure, and simultaneously proved that the people behind System value the quality of texts.

I am still absorbing the 6th issue, but I can distinctly remember that the Giorgio Armani issue was a lovely, one-week reading, filled with fashion insider’s point of views and thoughts. Even though the reading part is the biggest asset of System, I also enjoy their sharp and individualistic creative direction. The editorials photographed by Juergen Teller (just like the 100 page one for the last haute couture collection by Raf Simons for Dior) and portfolios of legendary artists match the unconventional nature of the magazine. System, edited by Alexia Niedzielski, Elizabeth von Guttman, Jonathan Wingfield, Thomas Lenthal and many other contributing writers and creatives takes it to the next level – it’s not just an expensive booklet of advertisements, but valuable literature for those who are truly into fashion. In other words, System is both relevant and smart. And I will keep it for a longer moment on my coffee-table – and eventually leave a graceful space for it in my book-shelf.

Here is a throwback of the previous issues’ essential editorials.