Good To See You Back. Zanini AW19

March 1, 2019March 1, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marco Zanini, how good to see you back! This truly talented designer of Italian-Swedish origins had his stints at Rochas (those were truly brilliant seasons comparing to today’s state of things at the brand) and Schiaparelli, then did a few capsules for Santoni, and disappeared from the radar for a while. Now he’s back, better than ever, completely free, with his own namesake brand – Zanini. What it’s like to be on your own? “Finally, independence!” he told Vogue. “Of course, it’s a gamble, but this way feels more conscious, more authentic.” Zanini is thinking small, and proudly so – two collections per year, well-edited line-ups, quiet showroom presentations. But sometimes, less is really more. His debut collection can be described in one term: exquisite. Beautiful, beautiful tailoring and coats that you will make you drool. Cozy knitwear and beanies made in collaboration with his sister, Miki Zanini, who’s an avid knitter. The designer was in Japan last summer, and he came back with kimono silks that he’s cut into seamless bias dresses, airy and laid-back, but surprising with their construction. He can produce them in limited editions of two, a small number, but true to Marco’s intimate approach. “A lot of us are looking for something special, not overexposed.” That’s a fact. At a first glance, you might say that Zanini is the Milan alternative of The Row – one-off, logo-free, top-notch quality garments. But comparing to the Olsens and their uncompromising minimalism, Marco’s brand radiates with warmth and tactility. Summing up, Zanini is one of the best things I’ve seen in Milan this season.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

#InstaLOVE – April, 2016

April 7, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

@lanemarinho / I wrote about Lane’s handmade shoes here. And then, I fell in love with her visually nutritious feed for good!

I am an Instagram maniac and I openly confess that I spend too much time on filtering my feed. But it’s irresistible, when you have so many great accounts to follow! If you are ready for a dose of beautifully curated walls, inspiring photos and delightful shots – see my April recommendations!

@mzmarcozanini / Former Rochas and Schiaparelli designer, Marco Zanini, shares his love for Nordic furniture and interiors, posts rare #TBT’s of Martin Margiela and revives his personal, fashion highlights of his career. Whenever I see him posting a picture, I wonder when will he come back to the industry…

@jeannedamas / Jeanne Damas is my Parisian-girl crush, whenever she’s posting her feet in a balloon-filled bath or wears high-waisted flares. A must-follow, if you ask me.

@_ikakok_ / Kasia Korzeniecka’s marble-like patterns are made using the water painting technique. They are abstract, colourful, a bit chaotic and very moody. Perfect to look at, when you want to stress out after a long, exhausting and boring no-Instagram day.

@glossier / Although I am not a beauty-blogger and I laugh at beauty tutorials, the New York-based cosmetic brand, Glossier, never fails to deliver inspiring, casual-retail tricks. Past weekend, the brand gave away 500 #GlossierPink roses at the Bedford Avenue subway station. Nice, huh?

AND, if you want to follow one more account on Instagram… why don’t you follow, ta-da, @designandculturebyed?

HC: Spirit of Elsa. Schiaparelli AW14

July 8, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

The ex-designer of Rochas, Marco Zanini, didn’t have the expected applause either from fashion journalists or me on his first show for the couture house, Schiaparelli. He took too much of unconsciousness that even the Elsa Schiaparelli’s archival classics didn’t help. The collection was a critical mess although the clothes individually were like from a fairy-tale. As Zanini said yesterday “Last season I felt really the fright. I was so afraid about touching the legacy, because camp is a trap that is always around the corner with Schiaparelli. But I realized if I wanted to find the look, I cannot avoid going there, so why don’t I go there full-on?” And that was just the right thing to do, Marco. You brought back the spirit of Elsa. The couture show was couture: it wasn’t something, that would last one season (like in case of Chanel) or it wasn’t something, that made couture feel a useless collection (think Raf Simons at Dior, who brings future and sneakers to the couture section of the house, making it feel so RTW). The first look of AW14 at Schiaparelli made me already feel that it’s going to be a brilliant show. Leopard printed coat with mink fur sleeves, a beanie and pointy-nosed booties outfit is my first dib. It is very Parisian, non-chalant, chic… and styled in a couture way. Floor-sweeping coral pink mohair coat with giant ES initials in royal blue on the chest and attention-grabbing, pronounced shoulders (a bold silhouette it shared with other outerwear in the collection) will read as too literal for some tastes, too steeped in the couturier’s 1930s milieu. But what? It’s beautiful because it makes us dream and not think of the damn reality. Thus you had today’s animal prints: nesting pigeons whose eyes were embroidered in sequins on high-waisted trousers, poodles on a simple pleated skirt, and vibrant purple “Central Park” squirrels and rats on a 1930s gown—street creatures all, made fabulous despite their mundanity. And thus you had surreal moments like the bleeding heart picked out in Lesage embroidery on a black dress. “Schiaparelli is so vivid as an image in your mind,” Zanini said. “As a designer you really need to confront the dragon and go there.” And to sum up my a-bit-too-long-post, here is what I think: there was a beautiful time in fashion when rich women might have shopped at Christian Lacroix. Eccentricity has gone mostly missing from couture since Lacroix shuttered his business. And that’s a shame. Shouldn’t couture, most of all, be a stage for flamboyance, provocation, fun and dreaming? Thanks god, Zanini is convinced of it.

HC: SCHIAPARELLI SS14

January 21, 2014March 27, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Elsa Schiaparelli created a super succesful couture label known all around the world before World War II. Known for abstractive prints, surrealistic shapes and strange head decorations, Schiaparelli was the IT brand. But, unfortunately fashion industry got so useless within the war, that even beauty of her creations stopped to make people smile. Till now, when on 20th of January of 2014 in Paris the first runway collection was presented, being designed by ex-Rochas designer, Marco Zanini. And it was a circus. The designer made Schiaparelli more a… ready-to-wear collection than Couture. Seriously- white shirt with a black blazer. Nicely decorated gowns. This is all standart for RTW. The collection was between past and now- the same prints and head-covers from Elsa’s time and the modern part, so more minimalistic- done by… well, as I remember Marco wasn’t a fan of minimalism at Rochas. So why the blast of creativity, beauty and fairy-tale couturier dreams were so tamed? Only Stella Tennant in blue hair positevely shocked me…

“Things” We Saw at SS14

October 6, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

As the Summer 2014 fashion month ended, there are new trends, rumours and facetious moments being summoned on different blogs and magazines. But, here, you will find the strangest, scariest, funniest, inhumane, and coolest things of the season! The venues, shoes, beauty and clothes were taken under consideration, so simply enjoy! (Above: The Givenchy venue showing a car crash in the middle of the runway.)
Marco Zanini, who had his last season at Rochas, presented an awful collection inspired with… well everything. I was never a fan of Rochas, but this season it was really eerie to watch this. The above shoes with crystal backs and shaggy front are really creeping out. How is it possible to walk in these? C’mon, Celine yellow fluffy heels last Summer were better!
Pat McGrath spent 12 hours on doing these masks at Givenchy with 40 other people. Isn’t it a bit of time-consuming beauty trend? It’s definitely art, but surely it won’t rule at DIY blogs this season. You need Pat McGrath to do it, of course.
There was something yeti like about Gareth Pugh SS14 wigs.
Jean Paul Gaultier and Louis Vuitton (whose designer, Marc Jacobs says bye-bye to us after 16 years) are trending this season a very interesting trend- denim worn under skirts. That seems pretty cool… and definitely mixed up!
J.W. Anderson. In other words, nothing here is simple as you may think.
Marc Jacobs in New York was a fashion epoque mash-up. Victorian era mixed with a beach party and Coca-Cola? I totally buy it. And the blond wigs… so cool! Plus, Cara Delevigne, Edie Campbell, Charlotte Free, Sky Ferreira and Georgia May Jagger where there.
Proenza Schouler presented a beautiful coat made out of… well, a rug? Who cares, it’s still beautiful. And this clutch…
Seriously, is Sonia Rykiel’s weather forecast is so bad for Summer? Are we goings to wear fur scarves around Paris soonly? Hopefully no, but… This fur looks awesome with these boudoir dresses.
Simone Rocha does crocs next season. With PEARLS. The world is near the end.
Comme des Garcons moved the topic of consumism and art… Definitely Rei Kawabuko’s dresses will be hitting the streets of Tokyo next Summer!
Chanel will have backbags for Summer! The look like taken from thrift shop, but calm down… They are going to cost about 5000 euros each.

Rick Owens revolutionized the runway with Soul Step group for his Furious collection. Clothes were blah, but the controversy- totally yes!
Christopher Kane has the best collection in London, presented somewhere on the streets. The inspirations with nature, street style and high technology are so OMG, that the collections landed in my “one of the best” list in my heart. Lovee…