Since yesterday, Sterling Ruby is the hottest artist of the moment. Why? He collaborated with Raf Simons on his AW14 Menswear collection in Paris, by creating the venue decoration and putting some artistic effort into the collection. And the collection was… well, a bit unexpected. Raf Simons usually does sophisticated sportswear, and now we have something vibrant, colourful. With some cosmic details on (the bumber boots look seriously out of this world!) the sweatshirts and coats, the collection was simply cool and fresh. The radiant chunky knitwears with square patches, camel coats broken with Mondrian like print and paint splash shirts are my favourites. It’s visible, who is the real art collector in the industry…
Menswear
Men’s. Haider Ackermann AW14
Haider Ackermann’s men collections are always my favourite. Haider, known for his Andalusian-Parisian chic, makes men and women always look stylish and unique. This super luxurious collection of silk, jacquard and leather is of course nothing else! The AW14 was a mix of comfortable, long-length coats, jackets reminding tunics and greatly crafted sweatpants that just gave the whole collection a street wear vibe. And of course the non-chalantly tied scarf… so Ackermann! I would definitely wear all of this.
Men’s: Ethno. Valentino AW14
The introduction of this men’s couture only further ratchets up the degree of luxury Piccioli and Chiuri have made it their business to sell. But the twist at their Valentino is that with each new turn of the gilded screw, the look of luxe gets less and less. The collection has never looked looser. Suits have mostly melted into pajamas; trousers into jeans; shirt-and-tie into sweatshirt-and-scarf. Perfect for Alpes Resort vacations and… casual daywear!
Men’s: Pastels. Gucci AW14
That was really elegant collection. To death. Frida Gianini for Gucci created a very simple collection for AW14 using pastel and black colours. Coats. Wool sweaters. Black trousers. Suits. And that’s it. After seeing so much colour during the fashion week, this collection feels a bit sad and too formal. Fashion used to be fun at Gucci…
Men’s: Obsession / Sex. Calvin Klein AW14
Obsession, Escape and Eternity were the keywords that guided the AW14 menswear collection of Calvin Klein. And this is nothing else than the names of famous CK fragrances for men… Now all the labels try to support their legacy as much as possible, so no wonder that this is a very good step for the New York based house. The collection was based on brown, olive and black colours; it was full of warm jackets, sporty sweatshirts and super cool wool shirts worn with matchy gloves. The collection got few looks I adore, but nothing behind it…
Design & Culture by Ed 