Men’s – The Boys. No21 SS16

June 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I took a big risk, breaking the mold I have created myself,” Alessandro Dell’Acqua of No21 said. “It was time, I think. Freedom was high on my agenda. I’d like to convey a clear message of fashion as an amusing expression of personality. We can do that in Milano, too.” Indeed, the new collection for men was totally different than all the others up to date. Totally new silhouettes – shorts which reminded skirts; over-sized knitwears (which, basically, land on my wish-list); great varsity jackets and elegant peacoats. The textures here became more tactile and softer. And the ultra-long t-shirts and tank-tops gave us a chilled out vibe, just like the boots, which had their laces tied in a messy way.

In reality, every piece of this collection is totally wearable – I already see a lot of outfits that would personally match my wardrobe. Also, through this collection, Alessanro proved again, that he is a styling genius. You can simply take notes for your next summer look, guys!

The Rag & Bone Dance

May 19, 2015May 22, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lil Buck and Mikhail Baryshnikov walk into a bar… and Rag & Bone begins the party. The epic AW15 collection by this brand for men is a blast of energy and dance!

Stella Jean Boys

May 8, 2015May 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Stella Jean is the queen of ethnic fashion. Her women’s collections are always way better than many other Milan-based designers fancy shows. For AW15 season, Stella referenced her work to India and Nepal – sunny colours, enchanting embroideries and oriental silhouettes appeared not only at her women’s collection, but also at men’s. I mean, these guys look so good in all that bold, print splendour! The kaleidoscopic jackets, hand-stitched pea-coats and turquoise trousers rule. Although I am not a print-loving person, I would love to wear a few of those pieces on myself.

Men’s – Black. Thom Browne AW15

January 28, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne ended the menswear fashion week in Paris with a beautiful, dark touch. And, it was definitely one of the strongest TB collections ever. Even if all others are masterpieces. But what I love about this one, is the romantic side of colour black. The models wore massively decorated hats by Stephen Jones millinery and the signature suits with a white shirt and tie. However it didn’t look simple. The blazers had embroidered whales and turtles; each leather glove had an embellished label tag on it; the fur coats looked magical combined with the brogues and the doctor bag. Everything clothed under a layer of black silk. Simply saying, an example of couture for men. A darkly theatrical opening (a man rising from a bed, dressing in black, and then apparently shuffling off this mortal coil) set the stage for a parade of mourners to make their way down a white runway, dusted with black snow. Bravo.

Men’s – The Tourist. Loewe AW15

January 27, 2015August 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“I want people to come here and like something – if you like one thing that’s great,” said Jonathan Anderson. “Nothing has to make sense together. I want people to just hone in on specific pieces. You have to let people have the freedom to do what they want.” This is why he doesn’t see this men’s collection for Loewe as a show presentation, but rather a place where people can come and see, feel and touch – like the Paris showroom. The Spanish heritage label, Loewe, went great revolution under Anderson’s androgynous wings. But for Loewe, opposite to his own namesake label, he thinks in a bit different way. “I’m obsessed with this idea of doing something and letting it go,” he explained. “You don’t own it anymore. It doesn’t matter anyway, as fashion eats into itself. When you inherit an archive, you start to realise that.” The collection itself, having that dramatic modern, felt not modern, but nostalgic. Those pants, jackets from 40’s… and these heroic wool ponchos and lambskin totes. I can’t really see anything in my personal taste, but the total outcome & concept feels enjoyably fresh and different.