Resist. Missoni AW17

February 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

At the end of the show, the models and entire Missoni family marched down the runway wearing knitted pussyhats. That was a clear nod to the protests that took place across United States in the last months and it proved once again that fashion reflects on global events and situations. There was a beautiful sense of unity felt in the collection, as Angela Missoni, the brand’s creative director, concluded the show with a powerful speech. But that’s not the end of Missoni’s humanitarian aims – some proceeds from the collection are going to the American Civil Liberties Union and the UN Refugee Agency. Respect. Other brands, take notes. If speaking of the collection, it was a celebration of the brand’s knitwear heritage. But also, it was filled with vibrant colours and arty patterns – something we all need in troubled times.

Relevant. Jil Sander AW17

February 26, 2017February 26, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Who would have thought that Rodolfo Paglialunga finally finds his niche at Jil Sander? Sadly, just at the moment, when he’s rumored to be leaving the brand. Hopefully it’s not true, because his autumn-winter 2017 collection is his best outing to date. It’s filled with the season’s best duvet outerwear and voluminous suits. Yes, we’ve seen them elsewhere, but those two match Jil Sander’s codes well, making the brand relevant. And who doesn’t love a power blazer? An ultimate business partner.

I’m a Woman. Prada AW17

February 24, 2017February 24, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Miuccia Prada is a woman. And she celebrates every aspect of that fact in her autumn-winter 2017 collection. Like an over-sized room of a teenager, the show’s venue was covered with film posters featuring female characters, while the guests sat on beds, instead of chairs. This room wasn’t just a room – it summed up a woman’s life, her experiences, desires, morals. Whether that was participating in Communist marches in 70s Italy or being a little girl who wanted to dress like a glamorous Milanesa, Prada‘s life is like a gripping book. But the concept wasn’t about her. It rather praised women she knows, she admires. Their assertiveness, point of views, femininity and approaches to life. Whether dressed in candy-pink dress with ostrich feather inserts or a boyish corduroy suit. Hand-knitted scarves, biker hats, woven bras, sea-shell necklaces – those pieces aren’t future must-haves of an it-girl, but an intimately rare access to Miuccia’s various associations of a woman. This show is the most beautifully executed moment of the season, so far.

Prada

Love for Dislike. Gucci AW17

February 23, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

If somebody asked me yesterday in the morning, what was the weirdest fashion moment of the last few seasons, I would instantly respond: Vetements autumn-winter 2017. But a few hours later, my reply would dramatically change. It’s Alessandro Michele‘s Gucci, which scored all points in category of ‘real eff-ing craziness’. I honestly don’t know from where to start or whether there’s even sense in writing this review. I mean, there were over 120 looks, divided between women’s and men’s (the new fashion show strategy, which really does make sense). Prepare, this one’s chaotic! There was a couple from Wes Anderson’s cult Royal Tenenbaums film; a stripper in ripped denim mini-skirt, wearing a flashy zirconia body-suit and having those very, very long tips; tacky-meets-royal gowns with faux-roses and heavy dose of ribbons; a cosmic, glass structure in place of a traditional runway, which insulated the models from the guests; Hari Nef (!), Asap Rocky (!!), and Florence Welch (!!!) sitting in the frow. Should I list more? There was even a pair of boots with look-alike hammer and sickle symbol of Communism, which got me thinking – how far will Michele pull the envelope? Oh, wait. I guess he already torn it apart.

The point is: honestly, I disliked the collection at the very first moment. I just can’t say I love it, because I would lie to myself. All that splendour is too much. But there’s other side of the coin. That was a show that made you think, ‘wow – fashion is fun.’ Right? Mugler’s and Westwood’s collections were also slammed by the critics at the designers’ early stages of their careers, because they simply loved messing up with bad taste. Although Alessandro’s Gucci is under the spell of ‘hype’ (can someone, please, explain me at last what this enigmatic term really means) and it’s adored by everybody, from an Asian mega-client to Tumblr boy, this collection will leave a mark in fashion’s history. Uff.

Men’s – Francesco Risso. Marni AW17

January 15, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

In the fashion industry, and precisely in Milan, there are two types of debuts. Like Alessandro Michele at Gucci, where he scored ten marks out of ten from the editors and buyers; and like, for example, at Roberto Cavalli or Jil Sander, where even the term ‘debut’ doesn’t make anyone ecctatic. Francesco Risso‘s debut collection at Marni falls into the latter camp – in fact, some of the least-informed guests could have thought it’s just another great Marni collection, without any big changes going on. A Prada alumni, who was raised on Miuccia Prada’s and Consuelo Castiglioni’s (Marni’s founder) neo-Italian aesthetic, presented his first collection for the conceptual brand in form of a menswear show. Lanky-looking models with long hair wore fluffy shearling coats, checked sweatpants, too-big trousers and 70s striped knits. Lemon-yellow sweatshirt with a fur lining looked equally Marni-geek, as the colourful beanies and pajama shirts. You can’t judge a designer by his first collection, but I’m quite sure Risso’s Marni won’t go through collossal rebranding and major advertising campaign, like Gucci or Balenciaga did in the past months. It’s quintessentially Marni – and who doesn’t love Marni as it is?