Yesterday’s Victoria Beckham show was special – it didn’t only celebrate the label’s 10th annversary, but as well it was the last show presented in New York (the designer is switching for London, where her fam is. And Spice Girls, of course!). What you’ve seen 10 years ago in a Beckhamcollection, and what you see now, is diametrically, even dramatically, different. No more body-con, cocktail dresses and killer stilettos. Quite the opposite – loosely fit maxi-dresses, luxe hoodies and masculine coats. But what I appreciated the most in her autumn-winter 2018 collection were the felt bags – so big! Especially, the lilac one stole my heart. Really, you can carry anything in it, from let’s say kittens (as the collage above presents) to an entire, additional outfit for change. Beckham, since her radical change in fashion aesthetics, must adore Phoebe Philo – I think it’s not hard to notice some very distinct Célinisms here. But since Philo left Céline, where will ‘those’ women shop next autumn? Well, Victoria might have the answer.
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah Linh Tran, season after season, find a way to make their truly timeless clothes feel exciting. Maybe this season it’s all thanks to the pink turtleneck the models wore under russet-brown cardigans and coats? That was a glimpse of colour that doesn’t affiliate with Lemaire, but surprisingly looked great. The brand is known for its sense (and love) for artistry. A designers’ friend contributed the muted paisley and feather-overlay marble prints used in outerwear, shirting, mohair knits and pants. Of course, for more classical Lemaire devotees, there are the signature, relaxed fits and silhouettes in ecru, black or grey (can I ask for that loosely fitted suit, please?). As always, Lemaire wins my heart.
The rumours of Phoebe Philo leaving Céline are slowly, slowly becoming a fact. Let’s have a moment for pause.
It’s still not clear, whether spring-summer 2018 was Philo’s last collection for the house. But the resort 2018 is a prove that ‘Célinism’ is a self-reliant, important fashion term on its own rights. It’s a kind of secular belief in terms of aesthetical expression . What does it mean? Sensual sophistication (the dresses with lace inserts). Timeless and seasonless items (the trench coat; the big bag). Empowering (over-sized suits). Women, who trusted – and will continue to trust – Phoebe know the principles of Célinism very well.
P.s. I really feel sorry for the designer, who will take her place. What a great challenge will it be to do something ‘better’? And not just to prolong her minimalist trademark? For now, it’s whispered that Philo is heading to Burberry, where Christopher Bailey has departed yesterday after a 17-year-long tenure. If that’s true – we will follow.
Ania Kuczyńska‘s autumn-winter 2017 collection, elusively titled Le Nuvole (meaning ‘clouds’ in Italian), is a minimalist heaven at the first glace. But is it just plain minimalism? The Warsaw-based designer is known for encoding various references and personal obsessions in her sharply cut, yet tactile garments. This season, it was a nod to her beloved Italy. Don’t associate that tip too superficially, though, as there is nothing like cliché in Kuczyńska’s creativity. Morning black coffee served in Palermo; a glass of Sicilian wine (well relates to the burgundy colour of the must-have ballet slippers); the shade of navy that resembles the Italian, night sky. Then, there’s also Monica Vitti’s ethereal grace in those silk dresses and feminine blouses. The 3/4 skirts ooze with a Luca Guadagnino film sensuality – yes, think of Tilda Swinton’s character in A Bigger Splash. The expressive silhouette of Ania’s new season pieces reflect the motion of Tarantella – folk dance in the Southern part of Italy, characterized by a fast upbeat tempo. Although that seems like quite a lot for one collection, Kuczyńska pulls it off like no other, keeping it true to her style. The mood, the texture, the silhouette – Le Nuvole is what you call eccelente,in every aspect.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki, feauturing Wojciech Plewiński’s shot from ‘Italia ’57’ series. Photos by Stanisław Broniecki, beauty by Marianna Yurkiewicz.