There is something incredibly appealing about Lucie and Luke Meier’s pre-fall 2019 collection for Jil Sander. Of course, every Philophile (read: an individual with a maniacal obsession for Phoebe Philo) will note a number of Céline-like moments – take the knitted pants with a matching top, for example. But since Phoebe isn’t designing, and some of us decided to completely disconnect from Hedi Slimane’s Celine, Jil Sander seems to be entering that niche with big steps. What I definitely loved about this collection is its tactility, always so in-demand during the autumn season. Meiers’ simplicity isn’t coldly minimal, but rather soft and fleecy. Whether it’s a coat with a fringed blanket element, a classical pinstripe shirt dress or a voluminous duvet jacket with a hoodie that turns into a collar, Jil Sander has you covered with great outerwear and comfortable daywear. Also, don’t call the clothes ‘over-sized’. “They’re not oversize really,” said Lucie. “They’re generous, friendly volumes; it’s all about comfort, the softness around the body. There are no hard edges.” The cozy feeling was translated into double wools, lightly padded silks, and spongy, natural felts. Accessories haven’t been that good at Jil Sander for a while, too. Their new XXL bags (some, at first sight, looked like made from paper – is it a nod to Raf Simons’s iconic men’s clutches he did for the brand back in 2012?) and leather clogs are so, so good. The Meiers thrive.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.