Heavenly. The Row SS19

September 14, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

No fashion show this time, but a peaceful, tranquil showroom presentation accompanied with a look-book starring Saskia De Brauw. That’s how Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen reply to New York’s fashion week fuss. Oh, the clothes. The Row is heavenly. Majestic. Angelic. But don’t think of any opulent embroideries or ornamental details, no. Rather, a voluminous dove-gray silk dress. Tweedy coat with the frayed edges. Robe-like gowns with regally upturned collars. All hand-made, kept in the highest possible quality of craftsmanship. Those garments don’t look still and statuesque, but flowing. I’m absolutely in love with this one look where a huge bag works as layer of clothing worn over a minimal, sleeveless dress. Editors tend to say that clients who adored Phoebe Philo’s Céline should go to The Row. Well, I wouldn’t go that path of logic. The Olsen twins gradually create their own vocabulary, that is less and less Philo-esque. They finally create distinct clothing that speaks for itself; it says ‘The Row’, not ‘Philo appreciation sample’. Also, a big shoutout to The Row’s new menswear line that launches in October. Mostly with a Made in Japan tag, the men’s garments (just a few preview images were released) will be as exquisite as the women’s. The price range, that starts from $4,000, speaks for itself as well.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Nathalie Schreckenberg

April 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Nathalie Schreckenberg is a German-Brazilian jewelry designer, who’s currently based in Barcelona. With her background in fine arts, Nathalie started a line of handcrafted earrings, rings, bracelets and pendants that might resemble sculptures of such artists as Jean Arp or Alexander Calder to some. With one exception – those pieces are totally wearable.

Schreckenberg’s brand DNA retains a raw, organic feeling to each of those precious, yet minimal treasures. Silver, natural gems and pearls are molded into ergonomic jewels that adapt comfortably to the body. Each piece reflects manual processes, connecting with the wearer – think of them as of ancient amulets for our times.

Discover the designer’s gorgeous lookbook presenting her second collection, photographed by Adrián Catalán, below.

Céline, that Woman.

March 30, 2018March 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Her name is Céline. She wears clothes that are challenging, but not vulgar. The style is chic, yet unpretentious. Contemporary, yes, but not overly futuristic. Relevant. Connected. Comfortable.

Phoebe Philo forever. The spring-summer 2018 collection is the very, very best of them all.

Distant. Céline AW18

March 12, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

There was something of Phoebe Philo in Céline‘s autumn-winter 2018 collection. But still, that ‘something’ was very, very distant. She’s not there. There’s no soul in these clothes, even if they are worn by Phoebe’s favourite Binx Walton and Charlee Fraser. Those are just the ‘tricks’ Philo would probably have used if she was still around the studio. The heavy palette of navy, brown and black slightly suggest, that even the ‘inside’ designers of Céline feel the misery. Well, this doesn’t mean it’s a collection to ignore – you better snath one of those voluminous coats or masculine blazers before Hedi Slimane fully hits the house. And also, please give a chance to this random, yet adorable vegetable print dress.

By the way… I can’t agree with the thought Phoebe isn’t THERE. And you?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Authentic. Lemaire AW18

March 3, 2018March 4, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Something’s going on at Lemaire. It seems that the designer marriage, Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran, let some colour to their beautifully minimal, yet intimate, label. Curcuma, lemon, mustard, lilac – this is the bright, warm palette offered for autumn-winter 2018. But Lemaire wouldn’t be Lemaire without its cool sobriety. Dark brown jackets were styled with ecru skirts or black satin shirts. Loosely fitted, multi-segmented coats in dove grey or indigo made you think of a cold breeze rather than those lovely, autumn days. The volumes were as well different than usual – everything’s over-sized, very masculine. People say that Lemaire can become the new Céline. I disagree – I think that Lemaire is authentic, not trying to look like Phoebe Philo’s era fashion. It’s just the way it is, true to the designers’ style.