This is Paper Store

July 19, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

This is Paper is Warsaw‘s best kept secret. Aesthetically aware and Japanese-minimalism loving, everything about This is Paper feels well-considered, and absolutely individual. Starting with their already cult, extremely durable, vegetable-tanned leather backpacks, and ending on advertising-free, signature magazine issues, this Polish brand found back in 2011 keeps on evolving up to now, being consistently true to their style. A brand, so perfect in its creative strategy, definitely should have a space, where its vision can be experienced by the others – and here it is, the newly opened, flagship store, hidden in Warsaw’s not-that-trendy district and settled on quiet Odolańska street.

When I entered This is Paper’s stationary boutique the first time, I was pleasantly shocked by the oozing peace of those white walls and wooden shelves (holding denim rucksacks, practical transfer bags, loads of plants and niche books). Everything seems to slow down here, and the time flows in the peculiar rhyme of Asa Changs & Junray’s “Hana” track. The sales assistant matches the place’s pace, too, with laid-back, unpretentious attitude. On the left, I’ve spotted the tea-room corner, and I was really surprised, when the ‘This is Paper girl’ suggested trying her favourite taste. “You can’t buy blindly – first try it” – such a hearty and down-to-earth statement to say. In awe, I sipped the delightfully refreshing tea while listening to the story of its origin. Of course, the high-quality green tea comes from Japan, and the owners of This is Paper did their best to find the most organic and pure type. Their taste buds took them to Fukuoka prefecture, were they discovered a small, family business – against mass production, the father-and-son duo care about the tiniest details of proper tea-making process. This is Paper specializes in a wide selection of teas from Fukuoka, but they also import a great brand from Berlin – Paper & Tea.

I discovered This is Paper a few years ago (prove: I’ve written a piece about them here), and when I discovered that they are opening a store, I just couldn’t wait to see it. But it was their Instagram post with ‘matchamisu’, which made me come straight to their place. Except selling tea, This is Paper uses it in a variety of little, home-made desserts, and matcha-modified tiramisu is their latest addition. I tell you, it’s heaven for the eye and for the mouth. Also, you can try out their another specialty – matcha pralines with edible green tea, roasted rice and other flavours.

This is Paper’s store (and design studio located in the back of the retail space) isn’t just a minimally furnished spot in an off-beat part of Polish capital. It’s a totally different view on commerce, which fuses all human senses and creates desire. “Less is more” isn’t a clichee here, but an asset.

Odolańska 6-8 / Warsaw

Stillness and Comfort. Céline AW16

March 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Fashion is in hurry, and nobody knows where is it heading to. But Phoebe Philo, just like a few other designers, says “no” to see-it-now, buy-it-now trend, which has stormed such brands like Proenza Schouler or Paco Rabanne. The autumn-winter collection from Céline has a message – calm down. Appreciate the quality, the time. The way these clothes fit on your body. “I came about it through wearing it,” she said. “It’s always that.” This time, the designer who understands women’s daily needs best, focused on her all-time favourites, from over-sized pants and voluminous tunics to suede vests and seasonless coats. Satin gave the dresses a flowing, fluid-like texture, and the fleecy, black “bubble” tops with an armhole had this sophisticated, yet effortless mood about them. The soft, pillow bags looked dreamy, and they will definitely have room for everything needed, and unneeded.. Strangely, though, this collection doesn’t look like a winter one (except the caramel shearling coats and tweed mini-dresses) – there were classical sandals on bare feet, and a lot of subtle flesh exposing. However, on the other side of the globe we’ve got summer, always. And Céline is an internationally wide-spread brand.

The collection, in fact, is full of clothes which can be worn without much consideration or (again a cliché) effort. They are the house’s strengths, and a woman who adores Céline and Philo’s touch will surely have her wardrobe completed with these everyday basics. “It’s a busy world, and I find I have this idea of stillness with Céline”.

Calm Fire. Paco Rabanne AW16

March 5, 2016March 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julien Dossena revamped Paco Rabanne into a contemporary brand, which does spark desire. And if talking of sparks, the collection had one, or two – literally, leather patches of flames were embroidered on midi skirts and satin tops, looking hot and untamed. But the Rabanne women has a much gentler side, too, and you could easily guess that thanks to floral tapestry jackets and dresses. The fur-lined reverse-coat in beige looked cosmic with the outer-space white boots and the minimal cool white-tanktop-and-black-pants had an androgynous, yet appealing energy about it. Although Dossena’s collections remind me of Helmut Lang-era rather than Paco Rabanne’s times, one thing’s sure – the creative director attempts (with a large success) to envision the wardrobe of a modern-day woman, just like Rabanne did back in the days.

Cognac Leather, Sheared Astrakhan. The Row AW16

February 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

The Row designers came back to New York this season for their down-to-earth presentation, making a statement that Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen believe from the very beginning of the brand. Reduce. But keep it luxurious and of the top notch quality. Sheared astrakhan, double-face cashmere, cognac leather… should I list more of these pure and rich textiles and materials used in this harmonious wardrobe of must-have essentials? Among the sleek silhouettes of 40’s coats and flattering, high-waisted pants, the “spotlight” (if the minimal aesthetics of the Olsen twins would ever use that excessive word) was stolen by the delicate slip dresses and sheer, lilac-grey gowns. The The Row women – Guinevere Van Seenus, Jamie Bochert and Kristen Owen, just to mention a few – look stern and sophisticated in their minimal looks – but surely feel the comfort and fleecy touch of their ecru turtlenecks.

HC – Carte Blance. Dior SS16

January 27, 2016January 26, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Without a designer at helm, the house of Dior is a true carte blanché in many ways. For the summer haute couture season the studio staff (who were aesthetically trained by Raf Simons throughout his three-year tenure) tried to do their best. And to a surprise, unexpectedly they did a good job without a creative director (comparing to the disastrous collection from 2011, when Bill Gayten replaced John Galliano with his tasteless fashion). The collection had Simons’ minimal spirit present, just like it smartly played with Christian Dior’s legacy. Shoulder-exposing bar jackets, lace dresses with v-neck cuts and feminine suits looked breezy and fresh. The only major dissapointment is the lack of a beautiful, COUTURE ball-dress. I loved Raf’s couture collections because of his amazing dresses. This time, Dior feels pretty handicapped among the other brands without one, but that’s totally understandable – you can’t demand everything at a time from a studio-designed collection. Now, the question is – who is the person that will take-over the brand in the near future? Any guesses?