Calm Fire. Paco Rabanne AW16

_PAC0047

Julien Dossena revamped Paco Rabanne into a contemporary brand, which does spark desire. And if talking of sparks, the collection had one, or two – literally, leather patches of flames were embroidered on midi skirts and satin tops, looking hot and untamed. But the Rabanne women has a much gentler side, too, and you could easily guess that thanks to floral tapestry jackets and dresses. The fur-lined reverse-coat in beige looked cosmic with the outer-space white boots and the minimal cool white-tanktop-and-black-pants had an androgynous, yet appealing energy about it. Although Dossena’s collections remind me of Helmut Lang-era rather than Paco Rabanne’s times, one thing’s sure – the creative director attempts (with a large success) to envision the wardrobe of a modern-day woman, just like Rabanne did back in the days.

Slide21

Slide6

Slide24

Slide23

Neo-Nostalgia. Julien David Pre-Fall’16

julien-david-19

Nostalgia is having a moment lately in the fashion industry – after Alessandro Michele’s vintage affair at Gucci, the old has never been so… new. And Julien David proves this in his pre-fall 2016 collection for his eponymous, made in Japan label. The emerald green, granny shirts and skirts had a lot to do with a wardrobe, which suddenly revived from few decades ago; the supposedly Star Wars inspired, over-sized t-shirt is a nod to thrift-shop-born, 90’s style – in other words Julien looks back at the decades with a 21st century glance. Easier, street-style ready sweat-shirts or affordable, white shirts were spiced up with elongated, buckled belts. The French designer’s collections are edgy, but always comfortable – take a look at this balloon-like, voluminous coat – modern, but with a appealing soigné vibe. Lastly, the shoes. Neon-shaded, chunky club footed clobs. I bet the fans of Julien David’s vision will do anything for these orthopedic dreams. Just like for this laid-back pre-fall update.

Slide3

Slide1-kopia 2

Slide2-kopia

Slide1-kopia 3

Slide4

#2015 – Nicolas Ghesquiere

louis-vuitton-1366-06

Nicolas Ghesquiere is praised by many as the designer, who perfectly highlights the quintessence of a 21st century wardrobe of a woman – his absolutely wearable and hi-techn clothes are all about comfort and a kind of refreshing, neo-eclecticism. His year at Louis Vuitton is also a year full of diversity – definitely, Nicolas and his team represent the French maison as a multi-cultural and stereotype-breaking brand through beautiful pink and afro haired models walking their world-wide runways (we have even came across Palm Springs this year for the Resort 2016 collection)! Thanks to Nicolas Ghesquiere, Louis Vuitton has become a label that is more than clothes and a vast range of accessories – now, Louis Vuitton is an open-minded, lifestyle project.

Louis-Vuitton-AW15

b60082a3-6b8d-41e2-b235-c855f8c9760b

img_0581

CA_LV_new_lookbook

LOUIS VUITTON

AW15 – Autumn-winter 2014 was about 70’s. Spring-summer 2015 was looking forward to vintage florals and denim. The autumn-winter 2015 collection was “looking into the future”, as Nicolas Ghesquiere stated backstage. And, it really did. Presented at the Louis Vuitton Foundation, the designer’s muse, Freja Beha, walked down the boldly coloured runway in a fluffy, white shearling coat. Then, the model favourites like Lineisy Montero and Fernanda Ly wore abstract peplum tops, satin suites with logo appliqued t-shirts and lace dresses. Kept in a rich colour palette, Ghesquiere’s conceptual take on the winter wardrobe is both über-feminine and simultaneously casual, noting the luxe sweat-pants and lovely tank-tops.

AG14823-640x960

louis-vuitton-resort-2016-runway-01

louis-vuitton-cruise-2016-lookbook-shot-by-juergen-teller_page_40_0-577x840

post-38290-0-1446125494-48214

51e5d37f24856ce79ba658d3dffd1426

Resort’16 – Nicolas Ghesquiere amazed me during his recent Resort collection. Louis Vuitton‘s is the first collection, in which he shows he is really the boss of the brand. The collection, presented in Palm Springs, California, was a sunny blast of fresh, slightly eccentric fashion. Nicolas showcased the silhouettes, that have never been present in his previous shows for the house and Balenciaga. Long, woman-warrior dresses with embellished gems; high-waisted trousers with harness belts; beautifully laser-cut leather jackets, which reminded me of the Victoriana era, brought the mood of Nicolas’ favourite musician, Grimes. But also, some sexy shorts and crop-tops appeared, giving us the vibe of the real all-American summer.  What should I say more? California suits Nicolas Ghesquiere as much as Paris.

Slide2-kopia 14
louis-vuitton-ss16

036ss16-louis-vuitton-tc-10615

a2x0017

a2x1402

SS16 – This season, Nicolas Ghesquiere really did show his refreshing stance at Vuitton – cyber luxury is the best term that reflects the mix of exclusive logo prints and pink-haired model wearing highly hype (whatever this means nowadays) clothes. Nicolas definitely had Japan on his mind this time – the Harajuku girls with manga-inpired robot tiaras and platform sandals make this collection sharp, but with a slight bit of kawaii flavour coming straightly from Tokyo. However, the collection had something more ethnical, too – note the lovely hand-stitched embroideries on suede biker jackets below. Or the feather details on mesh tank-tops and badass gloves. This how you do ethno, Valentino – keep it discreet, but appropriate. But what really hit me this time, is the amazing talent of fusing fashion history that the designer is known for – the Victorian blouses with leather vests and medieval inspired gowns (Resort 2016 continuation) have never, ever looked so modern as in Nicolas’ vision. These shirts, dresses, motorcycle leggings and, yes, jumpsuits (!) are highly in need. Also, I am drooling over these leather, pleated totes – the beauty of these accessories makes them conceptual objects, rather than just “bags”.

Slide1

#2015 – Massimo Giorgetti

EMILIO PUCCI

Italian fashion has never been so energetic as it is now! The year of 2015 is definitely the year of youth for Milan. And the most evident prove is the bold revamp at Emilio Pucci, which is directed by the extremely vibrant aesthetic of Massimo Giorgetti, the designer behind MSGM.

emilio-pucci-020-1366

emilio-pucci-009-1366

emilio-pucci-005-1366

emilio-pucci-011-1366

emilio-pucci-013-1366

Resort 2016 – I won’t hide it, the Peter Dundas era wasn’t ground-breaking for me at this heritage brand. His super sleek Pucci women felt so unexciting and monotonous that there is no wonder why he left the house for Roberto Cavalli. However, tfirst collection of the new creative director, Massimo Giorgetti, has something that caught my eye. It made me look at Emilio Pucci from a totally new perspective. The designer of ultra-trendy MSGM brought an eccentric vibe into the house of kaleidoscopic prints and luxury goods – multi-colour fringe coats, florals and eye-killing colour combinations. Giorgetti’s side-buttoned blouses – a nod to the signature Pucci silk scarf – sat strangely on the body, while his one-shoulder button-downs featured elongated sleeves. Giorgetti has a sense of measure about eclecticism: his women didn’t look odd, but rather like the Clueless character which suddenly appeared in Milan.

Slide4-kopia

_ARC0043

_MON0664

_ARC0023

_MON0099

SS16 – Massimo takes us to a utopian beach-side, where everything is possible. The sailor-girl theme was reflected in various shades of blue and the meticulously embroidered fish motifs ornamented tank-tops and dresses.  Dreamy and romantic, but with a modernistic edge at the same time. The accessories, which caught my eye instantly, made the cut. The colourful, leather bucket bags made every outfit look electrifying, while the feather sandals had a playful twist.  Just like the plexi sunglasses. Giorgetti is the real renaissance at Emilio Pucci, and 2016 already looks like a great year for the house!

Slide1-kopia 2

Raf Simons Departures Dior

Saskia-de-Brauw-by-Daniel-Jackson-for-Vogue-Germany

When this information hit us all yesterday in the evening, there was a “what has just happened” moment. Raf Simons, both spontaneously and officially, said good-bye to Dior, the Parisian mega-house. Simons has revitalised and modernised the brand throughout the three-year tenure, after John Galliano was fired due to his public, anti-semitic affair. The reason of this sudden change is not that surprising, though – Raf Simons leads his own, eponymous label for men and he has always called his journey at Dior as a “temporary, but beautiful adventure, which really lets him discover the feminine part of fashion“. Observing Simons since his first, haute couture collection in 2012, it was clear from the very first moment that the brand will go through a major refreshment – minimal silhouettes, simple forms and mind-blowing, floral show settings accompanied Raf from the beginning. I can’t say that I am super sad about Raf leaving the brand – I must admit, that some of the collections felt monotonous and exhausting (just like his last, spring-summer 2016 show which was presented three weeks ago). However, up to now I am impressed with his Monaco-based resort 2016, historically influenced autumn-winter 2015 couture and abstract spring-summer 2013 – all of them seem to look far into the future of woman’s wardrobe. Certainly, the time spent by Raf Simons at Dior ultimately defined those three years of fashion – “conceptual design” and “futuristic femininity” fit this period well.

The thing is, the new designer of Dior will be named soon – and I hope, that LVMH won’t elect a designer, who will simply not match the codes of Dior. There are some rumours, that the luxury concern can give Alexander Wang a fair chance to take this place – but please, remind yourself the hard times that Wang spent at Balenciaga – his fashion bored everyone and depressed the owners of the brands due to low ready-to-wear incomes. So guys, leave Wang alone. Also, there are high chances for Phoebe Philo and Riccardo Tisci (her contract will soon end at Celine, while his at Givenchy). I see Philo at Dior, but she matches Celine so perfectly… and Tisci will make Dior a 500-euro-t-shirt brand. Personally, I would give a chance to somebody totally unknown – like Gucci did with Alessandro Michele. Sometimes, the most unexpected choice gives the best results. And coming back to Simons, I am happy for him and his decision – I wish him even more successes in expanding his own, eccentric brand!

AW12 COUTURE

Haute Couture AW12

SS13

SS13

SS13 COUTURE

Haute Couture SS13

AW13

AW13

AW13 COUTURE

Haute Couture AW13

RESORT 2015

Resort 2015

SS14

SS14

AW14 COUTURE

Haute Couture AW14

SS16

SS16

Clutching-at-layers-backstage-at-@Dior-Haute-couture-AW15-Photography-@virginiekhateeb

Haute Couture AW15

AW15 Couture

Haute Couture AW15

dior-cruise-2016-stripes-runway-w724

Resort 2016

RESORT 2016

Resort 2016

DIOR SS15 COUTURE

Haute Couture SS15

PRE FALL 2015

Pre-Fall 2015

2016_480n

Haute Couture AW14

c09fb05fe643604ad9b4254b2273f88d

Haute Couture SS15

1ec51a6af4e515695630e99d0ddcd042

Haute Couture AW15

Belgian designer Raf Simons appears at the end of his Haute Couture Spring Summer 2015 fashion show for French fashion house Christian Dior in Paris January 26, 2015.      REUTERS/Gonzalo Fuentes

Raf Simons, the conceptual, Belgian fashion designer.