Sun Kissed. Loewe SS15

Slide02

J.W. Anderson couldn’t go wrong. His debutant women collection for the Spanish fashion house, Loewe, is a masterpiece. Presented in the UNESCO building, full of concrete everywhere, the suede and drapings of dresses, skirts and bags looked perfect. Jonathan Anderson really studied Loewe’s archives- the brand is famous for its high quality leather. The collection itself was very modern, and of course used a lot of leather, and mostly suede. The pastel dresses had suede looking like to nearly fall out; the beige trench coat looked super effortless with those pants and orange mules; the jackets and tops were all about patent leather; and bags, like the Amazona had a totally new transformation. The t-shirts were embroidered in traditional, Spanish way, with a relaxed theme- a sunny, summer view at Mediterraean bushes full of olive trees and calm animals. The models had their eye-brows bleached, which gave all the looks sophistication, and most of them worn gold, zig-zag earrings. In other words, Anderson brought so much emotional, interesting ideas to the collection, that it simply feels like if his heart belonged to Loewe. And surely, it is.

Slide03

Slide04

Slide07

Slide05

Slide06

NASA in Paris. Paco Rabanne SS15

RAB_0685

Julien Dossena is just the perfect match for Paco Rabanne. He really makes the brand breath with new life and energy! Very athletic, cosmic, modern- these are the words that do describe the SS15. Having a strong view on details (like bracelets or sci-fi embroideries), Julien and Marie Amelie Sauve did a great job with styling and model casting. Mica looked gorgeous in that knit; Amanda stole the show in that burgundy jacket; Natalie rocked the “shirt” dress. Think Olympic swimming pool, not Saint-Tropez, with color-blocking, contrast piping, daring cutouts, and skirts draped diagonally across the hips, exposing the pelvic bone on one side. They’ll require a phenomenal body to pull off, just as Rabanne’s did back in the day: 21st-century Jane Birkins and Françoise Hardys only. The mustang boots just gave the overall look a sharp, edgy vibe.

Slide17

Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris

RAB_0769

Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris

Slide16

Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris

Paco Rabanne, Ready to Wear Spring Summer 2015 Collection in Paris

Modern Elegance. Iceberg SS15

Slide6

Alexis Martial is the perfect designer at Iceberg- for his third season at this pretty energetic Italian house, Alexis shows he’s worth of the new status. The Iceberg creative director was inspired by Southern California—the intense colors, its seedy strip malls, the people’s obsession with being physically fit. It made for his best collection yet for Iceberg: confident and vivid and, thanks to the sport influences, easy to wear but pretty elegant. With cacti and pitahaya fruits everywhere, Iceberg is fresh and cool for summer. The tailored pants, innovative fabrics and modernistic prints made the overall look slim and sleek. We’ve got to have an eye on Iceberg’s rebirth…

_MON0012

Slide2-kopia

Slide7

Nordic Palettes. Freya Dalsjø SS15

 

Freya Dalsjø is one of the most exciting designers emerging from Denmark. After living in Berlin, she moved to Antwerp where she studied at Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Later, she launched her own brand in June 2012, bringing strong, modernistic concept. Freya Dalsjø provokes with architectural and artistic approach to fashion, bringing strong colours, sharp silhouttes and interesting technologies to life. Her love for fur has been further explored through a collaboration with Kopenhagen Fur. A material which she irreverently mixes with neoprene. And you can clearly see that in her SS15 collection, where Freya uses coloured fur on sandals! The collection itself had lots of colours and extraordinary details – natural stone necklaces, nordic prints, fluid like dresses… and a slightly punkish feel, in posture of piercing on the model’s noses. Dalsjø definitely belongs to the world of neoprene!

HC: Blend of Two. Chanel AW14

20140709-075843 PM-71923173.jpg

Like the dying embers of a baroque world, a gilded mirror hung in a modernist white space above a digitally-flamed fire, at the Chanel Haute Couture show yesterday in Paris. For this collection, Karl Lagerfeld thought of his vision of modernism. White neoprene gowns with baroque embroideries; curvilinear forms of a Le Corbusier building, the cloth moulded in an egg shape around the body, without any side seams; 21st Cinderella dresses; and a strange blend of the famous Paris-Edinburgh & Paris-Dubai collections Karl did earlier this year. The collection in my opinion is a bit normal. And somehow, I prefer couture on heels. Please, no more gladiator sandals! P.s. The last look was shown by Ashleigh Good, the seven month pregnant model. She wore a white cape with splendorous, gold, embroidered back. That moment was the most special in the whole collection.

20140709-080822 PM-72502386.jpg

20140709-080822 PM-72502563.jpg

20140709-080822 PM-72502202.jpg

20140709-080832 PM-72512628.jpg

20140709-080832 PM-72512819.jpg

20140709-080832 PM-72512413.jpg

20140709-080845 PM-72525054.jpg

20140709-080844 PM-72524866.jpg

20140709-080844 PM-72524681.jpg