Last. A Détacher AW19

New York loses one of its most under-the-radar, but beloved, independent brands – A Détacher. After 21 years of existence, Mona Kowalska closes the brand she created and gifted to the New Yorkers. A Détacher was it: comfortable, well-made, slightly quirky, but easy-in-approach fashion that doesn’t know trends or influencers. It was a rather quiet brand that always delivered heartfelt collections during buzzy, sometimes lost in itself, NYFW. The designer of Polish origins also had (well, still has, as the brand will close in the end of the season) her own boutique on Mulberry street, that sold not only A Détacher, but as well hand-picked vintage, arty candles and everything that’s in Kowalska’s taste. Her last collection is quite dark and is mostly based on the brand’s signature styles: a parachute dress, a turtleneck with highlighted shoulders, fluffy cardigans. The loosely fitted t-shirt dress with a slip dress trompe-l’oeil in the front seems to be a nod to Martin Margiela’s early design. It’s a beautiful, farewell line-up dedicated to A Détacher’s loyal clients. But there are no reasons to cry – we will definitely see Mona back soon, and wherever she takes us, we follow.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

It’s Real. A Détacher SS19

When you’re a designer like Mona Kowalska, and you lead a brand like A Détacher, you don’t necessarily need a New York fashion week attendance. The success behind this label isn’t propelled by celebrities; a world-wide distribution across multi-brands; or even a perfectly curated Instagram feed. It’s all about one store in New York’s discrete Nolita (that as well sells hand-picked rarities, niche scents and vintage) and a loyal client-base that consists of female professionals that appreciate what Mona does. Kowalska celebrates the 20th anniversary of her brand this year, and her spring-summer 2018 look-book presents her brand’s pure quintessence. Balloon-sleeved dress, harem pants, stacked-heel boots in ecru, pleated skirts in abstract patterns, a loosely fitted blazer. Those are just some of the pieces that catch one’s eye while browsing the collection. A Détacher is as well-known for its knitwear – see that deconstructed, short-sleeved top. There’s also that logo print episode, but it isn’t as obtrusive as we know it at other brands. The collection was shot at the designer’s Brooklyn home. The model poses spontaneously, surrounded by artwork and books. It feels real. And it’s real. Kowalska’s fashion is intimate, but then, it’s made for wearing, not just for editorial styling. Conclusion: I’m sure that the label will continue to prosper for many, many years to come.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Personal. A Détacher AW18

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Even though ‘intimacy’ seems to be distant among New York-based designers, there’s Mona Kowalska of A Détacher. With her cozy store in Nolita, a growing client base of smart women, and a great sensibility for prints and fabrics, Mona’s presence on the schedule is off-the-radar, but worth taking a look at. This season, the Polish-born designer left behind the idea of references and specfic inspirations. Rather, she focused on her personal style, that has developed into something unique throughout the years of working in fashion. Distorted blazers over beige turtlenecks; crotchet knits styled with floral blouses; very lovely, shaggy cardigans worn casually over a matching in colour dress. While styling plays an important role at A Détacher, it’s the clothes that do the work – I think that’s the essence behind the label.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Few Words. A Détacher SS18

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That was a story of masterful layering at Mona Kowalska‘s spring-summer 2018 show at A Détacher. A mint-green hoodie worn underneath a short-sleeved jacquard knit was refreshing, just like a simple blazer-on-dress trick. Knitted, loosely-fitted dresses in lilac or chestnut rank up high as well as high-waisted denim with an A Détacher tag. Mona Kowalska is the woman of few words in terms of fashion, so let her clothes (favoured by New York women of different walks of life) talk for themselves.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Cozy. A Détacher AW17

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Mona Kowalska differs from the rest of New York pack. Her collections at A Détacher always feel so tranquil and distant from the fuss. No celebrities, no far-fetched venues. It’s oure focus on the clothes. For autumn-winter 2017, the New York-based designer thought of cozy knits – from striped skirt with matching cardigan to wispy in texture sweaters, A Détacher’s clients will have a lot to choose from this autumn in the flagship store on Mulberry street. There was urban-cool tartan plaid; a bit of florals on the baggy dresses; lovely ‘townhouse’ print on sweatshirts. Daily essentials, which can be worn in many ways, according to your mood.

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