Twinset. Marc Jacobs Resort’14

June 4, 2013August 28, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs suprised! And in a good meaning! Well, I thought, that Marc would do something, you know, full of flowers, colours and everything like everytime for the Resorts. And that’s totally not true! The Resort is like a continuation of SS13 and AW13. Glamorous sequins, 70’s polo shirts and skirts, New York “Great Gatsby” epoque and of course… Stripes! The collection is very mature, totally not sweet and cute as last resort.
Is Marc getting a bit of inspiration from… Prada? Look at the blue stripes- and now see SS11 of Miuccia Prada. The crepe skirts are just like Miu Miu SS13 and use of fur in summer? Plus there are also lots of crystals that were in the 2010 Prada era… As for me that’s totally clear- Miuccia Prada and Marc Jacobs are life friends so why not? Will we see soon a collab of these two!
And back to the collection- Jaime Bochert looks beautiful here! Just as the collection!

Porcelain Pretty

April 15, 2013July 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Porcelain figurines are usually kitsch but still very beautiful. So why shouldn’t the porcelain topic be shown in fashion? And if we can say that everything is in fashion, then there is no problem with that! Staffordshire figurines had always these amazing flower details. Spanish, for example Liardo, is advanced in hand made 3D elements like tiny flowers in baskets, embroiderment on the Geisha’s kimono and other artistic fantasies. And here I’ve taken my own pictures when I was in New York from Metropolitan Museum of Art! (These are all very mind blowing!).

Meadham Kirchhoff, London based label known for very kitsh collections, had a surrealistic collab with Nicolas Kirkwood- ornamented and kitsch sandals full of embroidment, flowers, colours and ribbons. Kept in mostly in pastel colours they look like cakes on feet! That’s a bit fairy tale like, but this is how it is. Who else from London thought of porcelain as a inspiration? Queen of prints, Mary Katrantzou and her archival collection. The dresses had 3D prints with tea pots, flowers, jewels- like if Katrantzou was redrawing all the porcelain figurine features. That’s so porcelain fantastic!

Fei Feng (the graduate from Central Saint Martins) was inspired for her new haute couture collection with Ming dynasty vases and the splendor of Chinese wedding. The highly crafted detail like these flowers that move on air, or trees around the dress. Ok. Everything looks in reality ugly. And not practical. And hilarious. But still, I think it’s all very spectacular, if we have in mind that Fei did all these dresses handmade. And it matches the topic!

Sydney Mix. Ellery AW14

April 10, 2013July 1, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sydney Fahion Week is done, and when I saw the relation of Ellery collection at Style Bubble, I was like “This is great. This is better. Everything is perfect!” This label’s deigner is Kym Ellery, a most popular fashion girl in Australia. For her runway Hanne Gaby Odiele, Ruby Jean Wilson and even Julia Nobis come out.
So, into the clothes. The Ellery girl is a mix of New York and Paris as for me. It’s edgy (lots of Maison Martin Margiela influences” a bit Suno\Proenza Schouler like. But in different way. The clothes tend to be simple, but in reality it’s opposite. They are very female and sexy. And interesting! Great use of materials, beautiful flower print on pants, bubble sweatshirts, lace and fur and lots of white/gold. Beginning is more casual and a bit street, the end- I would say “this is how a Sydney couture would look like!”. So I’m crazy for moment about Ellery, and hope to see other awesome collections by Kym! Impressed!

Marc’s Pyjama Party

March 8, 2013March 8, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs, creative director of Louis Vuitton, Marc by Marc Jacobs and his own line Marc Jacobs, always knows how to draw attention to himself. And he did at always during different fashion weeks. First in New York, Jacobs presented Marc by Marc Jacobs, and ran out at the end of the show in blue/green pyjama and white sneakers. At Marc Jacobs, he had a more elegant pyjama- violet/brown from jacquard. And on the top of all, after Louis Vuitton in Paris, Marc wore a specially made pyjama with the recent LV menswear collection print.

Why is Marc wearing them? There is no real answer, only he knows why. But I’ve got hypothesis that because all the collection he designed had something “pyjama” in them- at MJ very elegant and stylish; at LV more boudoir and vintage- Marc Jacobs wanted to show with all his body, that he feels the pyjama v

Andy in Paris. Dior AW13

March 1, 2013August 7, 2013 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s the fifth collection by Raf Simons for Dior so far! And I’m saying it fifth time- Raf Simons, you are a new era’s fashion genius! This season, Raf was totally inspired with Dior New Look and Factory of Andy Warhol. The setting was wonderful- the silver clouds that were one of the biggest Warhol’s installation ever. The collection began with a classical remastered Dior new look in black and white colour. Then some amazing embroiderry came that showed women faces, classic pigalle pumps, flowers… And all in very refreshing colours!

The cluthes were amazing. All of them had a embroidered print of a Christian Dior pump in different colours. Although, Paris is definetly inspired with New York (for ex. Balenciaga), Simons keep the Parisian

There was a lot of mink coats and dresses with peplums- very femine and elegant. The collection was for now my favourite of whole Paris Fashion Week! It was crazy, non-chalant and at the same time very Parisienne and New Yorkish!