Lady Romance. Altuzarra AW17

February 14, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Joseph Altuzarra took a totally different path this season, leaving behind cherry sweetness of last summer. Looking at his autumn-winter 2017 collection, ‘heavy’ is the term that matches best, but not in the negative meaning of this word. In fact, everything was ‘heavy’ about the collection, from the atmosphere to the clothes. Delightful velvets in dark colour palette (except a few yellow ensembles); knee-length, lace-up boots; fur coats and jackets; richness of embroideries and embellishments. The styling of these preciously-looking clothes was made-to-measure for a woman, who loves Altuzarra‘s fashion – she’s both, romantic and sophisticated. As the designer said, his main aim was to build a dialogue between the past and today. However, the past felt more dominant in this conversation. Renaissance motifs were the main inspiration, for a reason.

Desire. Area AW17

February 13, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Area is one of the most daring New York-based labels with its semi-glamorous aesthetic. The designers, Beckett Fogg and Piotrek Panszczyk, prove that once again in their autumn-winter 2017 collection – which, by the way, was their big runway debut. The collection was dripping with sexuality, from fluid-like dresses in purple to crystal thong knickers. A fabulous, fur bra was worn over a t-shirt, while zirconia bangles and platform heels were purely about the attitude of a stripper-cool femme. Since launching Area, Beckett and Piotrek polish their home-made signature – sassy croc-like embossing, which consistently appears everywhere, from the dresses to pants. Now, the brand expands to ripped denim and rather commercial t-shirts with slogans like ‘J’aime Drama‘. But who doesn’t go for these tricks in New York right now? And fashion drama is definitely the thing that makes Area one-of-a-kind.

Cozy. A Détacher AW17

February 12, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Mona Kowalska differs from the rest of New York pack. Her collections at A Détacher always feel so tranquil and distant from the fuss. No celebrities, no far-fetched venues. It’s oure focus on the clothes. For autumn-winter 2017, the New York-based designer thought of cozy knits – from striped skirt with matching cardigan to wispy in texture sweaters, A Détacher’s clients will have a lot to choose from this autumn in the flagship store on Mulberry street. There was urban-cool tartan plaid; a bit of florals on the baggy dresses; lovely ‘townhouse’ print on sweatshirts. Daily essentials, which can be worn in many ways, according to your mood.

Oh, Raf. Calvin Klein AW17

February 11, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

While watching yesterday’s Calvin Klein show, where Raf Simons had his anticipated debut, I thought that up to now, a fashion follower felt like he / she had to belong to a specific ‘camp’. After Alessandro Michele of Gucci and Demna Gvasalia of Vetements and Balenciaga appeared on the scene in more or less the same time, fashion got so polarised. You either had to rush after embroidery madness and all those sparkly accessories or go for “the uglier, the better” kind of look, which says a strict ‘no’ to anything pretty. But what about people (like me), who weren’t falling into any of these camps entirely? I’m still a helpless sucker for Phoebe Philo’s Céline. But here is the new Calvin Klein.

Years at his own menswear brand, succesful tenures at Jil Sander and Dior – from every aspect, Raf seems to be the person, who can handle a major fashion brand, putting it again into the spotlight (and for longer, than a while). And especially if a label like Calvin Klein, which for the last few years was rather associated with Justin Bieber’s phallus in a pair of boxers than remarkable clothing, gradually declined. And Calvin Klein wasn’t only about NSFW Kate Moss and Brooke Shields advertisements: in the past, Klein used to pull off empowering suits for businesswomen, sensual slip-dresses and timeless apparel.

When Raf Simons and his design team (Pieter Mulier and Matthieu Blazy) were appointed at Calvin Klein back in August, the Belgian designer understood those codes instantly. And he knew they had to come back for good. Not only Calvin Klein logo and advertising campaigns got revamped; but the entire wardrobe for both men and women (both lines will be now put into one collection) went through heavy refreshment. For autumn-winter 2017, the Belgian designer put emphasis on suiting. Over-sized blazers for both men and women looked sharp, just like the pencil skirts and smart pants. The yellow coat worn by Julia Nobis was ‘trapped’ under vinyl, just like technicolour-era feather dresses. Simons loves messing up with stereotypes, so did he with American glamour: even the heels looked plastic-fantastic. Contemporary cowboy boots; body exposure mania in form of transparent knitwear; total leather looks for a motorcycle ride along Route 66. Even though Raf presented his first collection just a few months after Donald Trump won the elections, he doesn’t want to be miserable. He wants to celebrate America, its absurdity and phenomena. And that’s best seen in the wrapped, USA flag skirt.

Calvin Klein

#2016 – Marc Jacobs

December 10, 2016July 22, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

New York Fashion Week might impress and surprise, but leave “shocking” to Marc Jacobs, who always ends the city’s schedule with a spotlight-stealing collection. For spring-summer 2017, Jacobs presented an ecstatic rave of his latest obsessions, inspirations, collaborators and, of course, aesthetic. At the Hammerstein Ballroom, Stefan Beckman built a huge stage splattered with grease, lit up by more than a thousand little bulbs. A perfect space for an off-beat, underground party filled with techno-music and thirsty-for-fun people. The association was right – it was the venue of the most youthful collection of the season.

Autumn-winter 2016 was all about gothic culture in fashion, mixed with an aristocratic, soigne mannered dames and grunge, off-duty slouchiness. Chokers and all those extravagant embroideries on cardigans and dresses… then, the queens of darkness came out (Molly Bair slayed the runway – even Lady Gaga couldn’t keep up with her) in their voluminous, black ball-gowns with astrakhan capes. Laser cut floral PVC skirts and crotchet collars styled with elongated college sweatshirts had this striking contrast of old-school and the vintage tendency. The effect? Over-the-top, as usual at Marc Jacobs, but this season it was even more outstanding.

This year belongs to Jacobs not only thanks to his oozing with fantasy grandeur. You’ve surely spotted the platform shoes which strike you in every second fashion editorial. Polished black for winter; suede pink for summer. You’re a head taller in these killers. If 2016 isn’t the year of Marc himself, then it’s the year of his literally major footwear.

Your wardrobe needs… Marc Jacobs platforms, Marc Jacobs ‘MTV’ t-shirt & Marc Jacobs pink tulle skirt.