Beach Happiness. Rosie Assoulin SS17

September 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

One thing’s sure so far – spring-summer 2017, in comparison to autumn-winter 2016, will be the season of optimism. We already had Altuzarra and Thom Browne to prove that with their joyous outings. Rosie Assoulin is another designers in the schedule, who looks for happiness in the world of fashion. We are so exhausted with reality’s perks. Why not just leave everything behind, and go to the beach with your colourful umbrella and a big, big hat?

With biodegradable packing peanuts resembling sand dunes, and sparse, potted palms all around the presentation’s venue, Rosie looked back at her Jersey Shore childhood while designing the new collection. Thinking of everybody’s beloved vacation symbol, umbrellas, she sent out a line of striped lurex dresses and over-sized pantalons. Those clothes are perfect for a summer escape – take the feminine, floral jumpsuit with ruffles, or a robe-dress in cream-white. “Have a nice day” t-shirt, styled with hippie pants, is cute and so not obvious! Also, to her summer wardrobe Assoulin introduces the first ever denim pants, kept in a cool, loose fit. Summer, please come back.

Oh, and I nearly forgot. The bags. The amphorae-shaped straw bag in multi-coloured stripes is your new alternative of a basic, picnic basket. “Ceramicists are very calming”, the designer confessed.

Pool Party. Thom Browne SS17

September 16, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Thom Browne is one of the most daring fashion designers in New York. Attending his fashion show is like appearing in an unreal scene. “Fashion is art” statement really does relate to Browne’s creations. For spring-summer 2017, the designer built an incredible venue in an abandoned space in West Chelsea – the walls and floors were covered in multi-coloured tiles, and the guests felt like inside of an empty pool. The common association was right, as the collection had something of a glamorous, pool party galore. Think of the chic, poolside photographs by Slim Aarons in the 50s, when beach life took fashion into the iconic era of jet-set.

Suddenly, the models went out, all dressed in identical over-sized coats embroidered with floral motifs, and matching high-fashion swimming caps. Then, one by one, the models started to take off their coats to reveal the dresses they were wearing under. Trompe l’oeil matches Thom’s subverted ready-to-wear, and it became the season’s synonym. Suits, blazers, shirts with ties – in fact, the guests of the show didn’t see any of that. It was all about a camouflage dress.

So dramatic, and so extraordinary – you can look at this collection from a perspective of a spectacle, and of, yes, a fashion show. Thom Browne is New York’s creative mind.

Street-Wise Chic. Proenza Schouler SS17

September 15, 2016September 15, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Proenza Schouler‘s spring-summer 2017 collection is my favourite collection so far – and I’m quite sure that it will stay up high in my rank for this season. Like Altuzarra, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez looked forward to colour, which used to be substituted with calm neutrals in their last few collections. Bold, graphic patterns in red, yellow, orange and blue gave the bar-jackets and pleated skirts a youthful, pop vibrancy. The styling was care-free in its fun spontaneity – take the intarsia fur coat, tied with a sweatshirt over the waist. Such an eye-catchy contrast between a luxurious investment piece, and a streetwear must-have. But the sweatshirts, and the more street-wise part of the collection wasn’t banal at all. Boxy, voluminous t-shirts were layered over shirts, while Greek sanctuary prints or a snapshot of closed fist (its Jack’s) contributed to the idea of a mixed, “collage-like” chaos. Fabrics and rare textiles were “sparsed” around the pieces like in a collage, too. For their multi-coloured, knitted dresses, the designers reached a Parisian atelier were feathers are weaved like yarn. Knitwear used in the collection came from Bolivia, and in overall, over ten countries were involved in the making of this spectacular line-up of intriguing garments. As the designers said, they didn’t “travel as much as the collection itself“. That’s the beauty behind Proenza’s spring-summer 2017.

Collage by me (as usual), feauturing Kasia Korzeniecka’s water-painting.

Object of Desire. MISBHV SS17

September 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I can sum up my love to MISBHV in this simple way – Russians have Gosha Rubchinskiy, Western Europe has Vetements, and Poles have Natalia Maczek‘s label. So, you’ve guessed right, seeing a Polish brand having a presentation in New York makes me super, super proud. MISBHV, a label that since its very beginnings caused longing desire in my, and my friends’ hearts. Maybe that’s why spring-summer 2017 collection for women is entitled “Object of Desire“? Before, MISBHV’s main focus was on menswear, but the success of HARD CORE or WARSZAWA sweatshirts among women meant something – it was high time for a new chapter.

For her first New York show, Natalia openly admits that she was obsessed with the idea of a 17-year-old girl from 00s, who loves disco. The naive character of this girl contrasts with rough party raving and the character of techno music – she wants to look her best, trying out unconventional combinations made up of her teenager clothes. Zirconia embellished crop-tops, pink chokers in leather, raw-cut t-shirts resembling heavy-metal concert souvenirs – this is the world of MISBHV, based on nostalgic fashion horrors and DIY styling. Denim pieces, like the elongated pants or laced-up slit skirt, are my absolute favourites. Of course, I can’t be too saccharine – it’s fairly noticeable that MISBHV isn’t far from today’s most relevant aesthetic (the uglier the better). But, I don’t mind. I’m celebrating Maczek’s and her team’s success like a national holiday.

Power of PR. Sies Marjan SS17

September 14, 2016September 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Sander Lak of Sies Marjan has the best PR in town. It’s his second season, and his clothes are already sold by the most meaningful retailers. The hottest models and newcomers walk his shows. Out of nowhere, all the season’s fashionistas appeared on his spring-summer 2017 show. The editors are “stunned”. But is there a reason for all that fuss? I’m still in search for this ‘something’ that makes Sies Marjan a fashion phenomenon. The newest collection is good, but it’s like a deja vu of many other, on-the-radar labels. His colour compositions are called “brilliant”, but is there anything shocking about putting together the most Instagramable pastel shades? I’m quite bored with that. Lotta Volkova, the ‘Vetements best friend’, was tapped to style the show. The effect? Definitely not as jaw-dropping as everyone expected. The collection isn’t bad – scarf-like dresses in silk, platform boots, sequined gown in saucy-red – but it’s not remarkable.