New York’s Go-To. Maryam Nassir Zadeh SS16

October 27, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Maryam Nassir Zadeh is a go-to label and store in New York, where eponymous, yet affordable clothes and accessories are sold. For her namesake line, Maryam released the spring-summer 2016 look-book, photographed by talented Lea Colombo. The clothes are presented by two models, who reflect the Nassir Zadeh client – Mari Giudicelli and Susan Cianciolo. Devoided of fashionista crowd and massive PR explosion, the SS16 collection is a combination ranging from the designer’s signatures – note the super comfortable leather sandals and flattering dresses – to chic high-waisted trousers, sheer shirts and ecru shaded swimwear. However, the most exciting part of the line’s collection is the introduction of reworked denim. A pair of MNZ jeans, patchworked with diversity of indigo washes, seems to be the brand’s future best-selling piece, just like the glove shoes which stole the hearts of many women in the past seasons. Although Nassir Zadeh shows her collections one month after the New York Fashion Weeks, she never fails to deliver hearty and supremely stylish clothes.

Chateau Walk. The Row SS16

October 4, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

It’s a common thing for luxury houses to change the locations for their fashion shows. The Row did not show in its hometown, New York, but shifted to Paris, where, as Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen explained, “many of our customers are, who we want to support. As you see, we are having a show in a chateau, 45 minutes outside Paris.” But did this major change influenced somehow the clothes? The Olsen sisters kept it close to their very American style – straight-lines and loose silhouettes looked ultimately The Row. In reality, no big deal – the designers constantly play wih their signature blanket ponchos, maxi dresses and lady-like pyjama looks. However, after seeing this collection, I have an impression that Olsen sisters want to transform The Row into the next Hermes – luxe-loafers and these croco-leather bags don’t make me think of an eponymous label anymore. Just like the serene model-walk around the chateau’s garden.

Over The Top. Marc Jacobs SS16

September 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Marc Jacobs’s spring-summer 2016 show was actually really about fashion. It was so over-the-top and so good, that I just don’t know where to start from. So let me make a list of things that I am still obsessed with.

Location – This season Marc Jacobs took us to the “Hollywood of New York”. The entire fashion show was staged at the location of Ziegfeld Theatre on West 54th Street. The velvet details of the theater matched the eclectic mood of the collection precisely – glamour and chic shouted from every corner of this magical place…

Model Casting – Marc Jacobs and Anita Bitton of Establishment NY always choose the most interesting faces. Molly Bair, Lineisy Montero, Karly Loyce, Varya Shutova, Alice Metza and many more walked the show, representing diversity and beauty. But also, Marc’s all time favourites wore these opulent gowns – Guinevere Van Seenus , Karen Elson and, yes, even Beth Ditto attended the show, slaying it.

Fashion – As I mentioned before, this show seemed to be the most fashion-thinking of all during NYFW. I won’t hide it – this season was mostly about slip dresses and minimal outfits. And while everybody seemed to be revising their own signatures, Marc Jacobs truly let his imagination take over the reigns – all these silhouettes, the detailings, the whole Old Hollywood inspiration. Cinched waists and exaggerated shoulders, flared sleeves and full cut trousers, pussy bows and neck chokers, glitter and lamé were all here. Beautiful and strongly missed splendour came back to fashion on a massive scale.

Embroidery – All kinds of embellishments and applications were used in this collection. Through collaboration with Lessage studio in Paris, the evening gowns looked absolutely ethereal and highly dramatic. Matty Bovan and Amie Victoria Robertson worked on the prints, that were later on ebroidered onto the over-sized suits – their toothy and freckled characters gave the collection a humorous edge.

Uff. I am done. This collection was great, Marc! And a great ending for the pretty calm New York Fashion Week.

Flamenco. Proenza Schouler SS16

September 18, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler are approaching a new field of femininity. Their SS16 was like a quick vacation to South America – the heat of flamenco was unbearable, but appealing. The textiles were more light, which is a contrast to their last-season heavy wools and metal detailing; the attitude changed towards the Proenza woman, who is much more sensual and on-going. Exposed-shoulder-dresses and Cuban heeled pumps are the ultimate hits from the collection – just like the 70’s inspired, plexi earrings. However, the collection lacked a bit of fantasy, even though the designers had their dresses made by Parisian couturiers. It wasn’t a bad collection, but surely not the best one from Proenza Schouler boys.

Only Lovers Left Alive. Rodarte SS16

September 17, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Only Lovers Left Alive is one of my favourite movies, ever – vampy Tilda Swinton, elusive Detroit and the beautiful story of two, pale-faced lovers always makes me have goosebumps. So when I saw the first looks from Kate and Laura Mulleavy‘s Rodarte SS16 outing, I was mesmerised. I am absolutely share, that New York’s favourite sister duo had this movie on their mood-board. The collection had a fancy, psychedelic approach towards romantic dresses. This signature, Rodarte-ish romance is not shallow – it is like poetry. You need to interpret it the way you want. The designers spent the summer immersing themselves in Elizabeth Barrett Browning, Emily Dickinson, and Leonard Cohen, while listening to Electric Light Orchestra’s early synthesized, sparkly music. The collection also had something of Old Hollywood – the gowns were made of collages of lace, velvet, embroidery, beading, and silk fringing, cut into Victoriana bodices and ethereal, floor sweeping lenghts. To complete all that lavish heaven, Rodarte introduced their gorgeous, Art Deco inspired boots. The effect? With black fish-net tights, this collection felt authentic and nostalgic, but in a good sense.