Not Art, Not Politics, Not Fashion. Yeezy AW16

February 12, 2016February 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Can somebody explain me why the very beginning of ‪#‎NYFW‬ feels like a place where the fashion industry should not belong to in even a tiniest bit? Why the season of ‪AW16‬ starts with a “performance” which doesn’t convey any message or at least any styling tips (no, a Hollister-like parka, a pair of thermal leggings and Wallmart boots are more of “my daily outfit for a walk with my dog” than a “street-style moment” look)? Yes, you can say that the ‪‎Yeezy Season 3‬ show is touching the migration problems that currently paralyse Europe and the USA struggles with understanding diversity and all-skin-colour equality. But the message ‪Kanye West‬ tries to bring on doesn’t move my heart, on topics of politics, art nor fashion – and when I think that the whole event was focused on commerce, commerce and once more, COMMERCE of some Nike-shaming Yeezy-something trainers, it just makes me feel absolutely ignorant about it. Moreover, how can a designer who shames women so deliberately (yes, I read Dazed & Confused often and I’m in tune of all Kanye rants on Twitter, sadly) is even allowed to design anything for WOMEN? Oh, sorry, I used the wrong word. “Design” is surely not the thing West attempts to do – in this case, it’s just about ripping off a bit of Alexander Wang there, Vetements there and colouring it all in Haider Ackermann shades. And what saddens me the most is the fact that people are eager to buy this, and love this.

Dear fashion, if you’re there – leave this fashion-visionnaire-wannabe and Kimye clan alone. Make space for new talents. Let the mass know that fashion is not about sweatpants and beige-pencil skirts. ENOUGH is ENOUGH.

A Lady with A Twist. Creatures of The Wind AW16

February 11, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters kick off the New York Fashion Week on Design & Culture by Ed with one of their most mature collections to date. Not only because it feels like the Creatures of The Wind girl has changed into a woman – but also, the identity of the eponymous label seems to be much more recognizable. For the autumn-winter 2016 season, the designer duo staged a feminine, yet quirky outing of V-neck dresses made from lace and textile patches, mink coats and to die for slip-tops with autumnal leave prints. The collection blurs between playful Couregges-like polished leather mini-dresses and much more toned, mature pencil skirts and turtlenecks – meanwhile the geometrical jackets, as the brands’ Instagram feed suggests, are all about Ettore Sottsass graphic, visual vision. Good to see that the boys behind Creatures of The Wind show off their other, much more lady-like side – and present something infinitely New York. Both eclectic, and individual.

Nature Force and Fiorucci. Valentino Pre-Fall’16

January 16, 2016January 22, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Valentino‘s pre-fall 2016 collection delivered by Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli feels too good to be just a pre-collection. It has about 85 looks, and each of them tells a different story. The first series of looks were all about a pictorial, vivid scenario of a volcanic eruption – meticulously embroidered mini-dresses were styled with refreshing floral maxi-skirts and electric, blue high-knee boots. The force of nature, which was embraced by the designers this season was continued in the most romantic way – using the traditional, Italian way of fur-painting, the mink coats were blooming with delicate, white flowers. The Astrakhan skirt with fluffy cotton-flowers was genius, too, when styled with a classy, soft knit. However, the collection had its other side – the aim was, to make it span the worlds. The inspiration, as Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo explained in the showroom set up in Andy Warhol’s Factory in New York, was Elio Fiorucci. The Italian designer, who died last year, was focusing his fashion on influences which came from everywhere. “He was local and global,” said Chiuri, “and we think that fits with the way we work.” Moreover, the designers were drawn to Fiorucci for the 70’s lifestyle he represented in fashion, and his joy of discovery. I must admit, it was really hard to choose only a few, representative looks from this beautiful collection – so here are my definite favourites.

And if you are not familiar with Fiorucci’s pre-Instagram fashion…

He was the first designer to dress Madonna.

His work was captured the essence of Italian opulence and New York’s Warholian energy.

Elio used to have the most provoking advertisements in the industry – sexuality was his favourite element to play with.

Sequin Party. Altuzarra Pre-Fall’16

December 3, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Whoever said that sequins are overrated, did not consider Altuzarra‘s Pre-Fall 2016 collection. The unexpected paillette sequins, which covered the sporty jackets, mesh dresses and fancy midi skirts gave a bold bling-bling moment. Although this New York-based designer is rather known for his minimal aesthetic, the new look-book for next autumn is booming with colour. And an aristocratic, appealingly arty elegance. Lets not forget the subtle polka-dots on pastel blue t-shirt & pants set which takes it back to the label’s feminine codes. This might all sound like a very over-the-top collection, but the effect is totally different – the richly sequined pieces are toned with autumnal shades of brown and grey, making Joseph Altuzarra‘s new season a good choice for those who like a bit of fantasy in their cozy-knitwear-filled wardrobes.

#2015 – Rosie Assoulin

November 24, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

So, 2015 approaches its end, and it’s the perfect time to look back at the fashion designers who really made the cut this year. New York, London, Milan and Paris are full of great minds – but some of them have truly changed the course of trends, or rather the tendency for anti-trends. In my subjective choice, I searched for both, individualism and something more than “fashion”. 2015 is a year of designers, who made their creative vision a contemporary philosophy of everyday dressing and, of course, beauty.

Many designer who do evening-wear think that an excessive amount of Swarovski and flesh-exposing-cuts is just it. But thankfully, Rosie Assoulin is the woman who says a loud “NO” to that nonsense. The New York-based designer creates dresses which are mostly categorised as “evening” ones, but surprisingly look as good with white sneakers as with heels. By looking at her previous collections, it’s easy to conclude, that these simply cut, boldly coloured dresses look at their best with sweatpants and yes, even with hoodies.

AW15 – The stand-out pieces of this collection are the signature, cropped tops worn over white shirts, corduroy pants and of course, the dreamy maxi-gowns. The winter collection went totally against the grey-scale colour palette, giving us a diversity of reds, pinks and greens.

Resort’16 – Ruffles! Everywhere! On trousers, on shirts, on dresses – a ruffle mania. Rosie Assoulin presented a playful collection, which fused her evening attitude with something more R&B. The statement culottes had those huge, hand-made daisy-shaped cut-outs while her classy dresses smartly flipped into a fancy party or a friend’s brunch simultaneously. Also, the Woodstock-like dyed over-sized trousers had a moment. But again, the ruffles were really the stars of this collection – the curcuma coloured top with ruffled sleeves was everything. Just like the pink top which surrealistically reminded an ethereal waterfall made of ruffles.

SS16 – For her spring-summer 2016, the designer took us to one of New York’s public pools, which had its murals painted by Keith Haring. The location had a lot to do with the collection – swimwear was the key, and that was visible by looking at the very first looks. Bikini tops were worn in different configurations, while happy, slightly trippy stripes covered the voluminous flares. The colours were bold and nutritious – intensive colours made me want summer to come back as fast as possible! Assoulin’s signatures gowns are famous among New York fashionistas for their carefree attitude – this season, they had something to do with Diana Ross’ glamour. Ruffles, bows – and beautiful silhouettes are as usual ruling. That’s sure – Rosie truly enjoys her play with fashion! And I wish her the same in 2016!