Limitless. Valentino AW20 Couture

And again, Valentino‘s Pierpaolo Piccioli is the king of haute couture, even after months of confinement that could basically cancel the entire season. Entitled “The Performance: of Grace and Light, a dialogue between Pierpaolo Piccioli and Nick Knight,” the presentation played as a hybrid digital / physical event staged in a darkened void on the famed Cinecitta movie lot in Rome for local press and friends of the house. In a Zoom press conference, Piccioli explained he’d conceptualized the 16-look collection as “an extreme response” to the tough circumstances of lockdown; a determination to overcome the technical problems of socially-distanced working in the Valentino atelier and the impossibility of creating prints and lavish embroideries. “I didn’t want to feel the limitations. Couture is made for emotions, dreams,” he said. “It was super-emotional for us all to be here together to win this challenge. A moment I will never forget.” First came a pre-recorded screening of an artily glitchy video by Knight, in which projections of flowers and feathers played over meters-long dresses worn by women who appeared to hover in an aerial circus scenario. Cut to real time: curtains drew back to reveal the models, standing perched on ladders in a static tableau, their dresses – some of Pierpaolo’s biggest couture hits, elongated to the extremes, and revealed to be all-white – cascading to the floor, videoed live. INCREDIBLE. The idea of taking the show to Cinecitta, Rome’s “factory of dreams,” led the designer to add the concept of “the magic of early cinema,” evoking the silent movie imagery of with silver sequins and waterfalls of glittering fringe. To make it even more ethereal, Piccioli commissioned recordings from FKA twigs – her extraordinary voice soared poignantly as the models swung from trapezes and floated through Knight’s digital performance. Fashion communication on multi-platform formats has taken surreal twists and turns as designers have tried to conquer the dreadful problems of the pandemic. In Piccioli’s case, the surrealism was right there, embodied in the theatrical form of some of the most gorgeous dresses the world has ever seen.

Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Singular. Gareth Pugh SS18


Gareth Pugh‘s spring-summer 2018 look-book (the designer has ditched the runway to focus on fashion, not the frame around it) is one of those incredible, but underrated collections, which you’ve got to digest after seeing first. It was a literal explosion of forms and silhouettes, whether we’re speaking of the red column gowns or cage-like armours that resembled a surreal, outer-skeleton. It’s a season of colour, but none of the designers used red in such a furious way. Those red-splattered garments (they hardly can be called regular ‘clothes’) were as equally dynamic as the fire print that covered the dresses. My favourite part of this collection is definitely the crinkled, metallic story. The effect? As if Gareth dripped the body in liquid gold and let it dry. Or simply packed it in shiny wrapping paper. But of course it was much more complex than that! The collection itself isn’t everything that Pugh has in offer this season. Together with the visionary photographer, Nick Knight, the designer directed a thrilling visual that could easily be called a very hi-tech horror with emphasis put on jaw-dripping clothing. Note, it’s very NSFW.

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Collages by Edward Kanarecki.

Coolest Brits of 2013

zdjęcie 1-kopia 2 Here is one in a year, super official and fashionable agenda of the coolest British Fashion people of the year! All photographs are by great Tim Walker for Vogue UK December… with the new Vogue editor, sexiest and best Kate Moss!zdjęcie 1-kopia 5After Cara we’ve got Edie. Edie Campbell. She is cool, isn’t she?zdjęcie 4-kopia 5The duo of the London fashion scene, Meadham & Kirchhoff. zdjęcie 5-kopia 5zdjęcie 2-kopia 6CHRISTOPHER KANE!!!zdjęcie 2-kopiaMalaika Firth, model who covered Prada last Winter. She’s so cartoon like!zdjęcie 2-kopia 7Simone Rocha, the candy-bubble designer!zdjęcie 1-kopia 6Gareth Pugh, the darkest (and most creative) young talent under the sun (of Britain).zdjęcie 4-kopia 4zdjęcie 3-kopia 7Sam Rollinson. The Model.zdjęcie 1-kopia 4Nick Knight, the elegance is written in his name.zdjęcie 5-kopiazdjęcie 4-kopiaJ.W. Anderson, the psycho designer who will design for Loewe. That mean a next revolution!zdjęcie 2-kopia 3She looks pretty!zdjęcie 3-kopia 3zdjęcie 5-kopia 3zdjęcie 3-kopia 6Icon of Scottish fashion. Stella Tennant.zdjęcie 2-kopia 5Katie Grand, the editor of LOVE. LOVE, LOVE, LOVE.zdjęcie 4-kopia 3zdjęcie 5-kopia 4Stephen Jones, the famous miliner and editor.zdjęcie 3-kopia 5And Karen Elson. The girl that made the year.