Becoming a Woman

August 8, 2016August 8, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Guillaume Henry raised Carven, a fellow couture house of the past, into a commercial success. For the past six seasons, he’s at Nina Ricci, another Parisian maison, doing what he’s best at – reviving the spirit of a brand, and making it alive in contemporary times. But first, lets look at the history of Ricci’s legacy. Origing from Turin, Maria Nielli literally became Nina Ricci upon arrival in Paris, when she combined her nickname with her husband’s last name. Her haute couture house was founded in 1932, at 20 Rue de Capucines, complete with the design atelier and salons for client fittings. Her technique, cuts, balance and intriguing use of materials defined the Nina Ricci woman – elegant simplicity.

After years of slight oblivion, the house welcomed extremely talented Olivier Theyskens. However, his designs weren’t that sellable, and the next creative director was named: Peter Copping. His era at Nina Ricci was, well, unremarkable, filled with plain collections of boring clothes (I think the same of his few season tenure at Oscar de la Renta…). And then, Ricci named Guillaume its creative designer, and that was a right choice.

Robe coats made of rich fabrics scent with luxury, and the sequined dresses that are Henry’s signature at Ricci look feminine and powerful. The clothes for autumn-winter 2016 are versatile to a great extend – a pinstripe suit worn with a pastel pink turtleneck can switch with grace from daywear to eveningwear, while the sheer midi-dresses are both assertive and… romantic. Nina Ricci’s recent wardrobe revamp is mature and lady-like, proudly targetting women in their 40s and up – for intellectual, individual personas, who know their style best.

Oh, and take a look at this fluroscent, transparent top – love its edginess, which contrasts with AW16’s elegant chic!

Rouje Paris

May 14, 2016May 14, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jeanne Damas is a French actress and model, and most of all, the definition of a French girl. Oozing with love for Jane Birkin’s style and Parisian nostalgia, Rouje is Jeanne’s eponymous, friend-packed label with extremely chic and surprisingly affordable essentials. Mini-skirts, flared jeans and flower print dresses – it’s all about feminity, but a touch of the past. Rouje is also a tribute to every woman who inspired Damas. “I’ve always been surrounded by women with strong personalities; my mother, my sister, my aunts, my friends. I am fascinated by the appearance they can have – simple details such as a walk, a way to talk, gestures, a way to wear a piece of clothing.” Both, the website and the brand’s Instagram feed (I’ve mentioned it here) is filled with analog photographs by Sophie Arancio and Adeline Mai, keeping it in the moody vibe of the label’s designer and muse in one person. J’adore.

rouje.com

Bonjour, Paris. Sonia Rykiel AW16

March 13, 2016March 13, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Julie De Libran, a Parisian woman who knows her city as well as her pocket, is in charge of a Parisian label which has always conveyed the stereotype of the real, Parisian chic. It was Sonia Rykiel, who made her famous stripes a must-have of every Parisienne, just like denim flares and other life-companions of women, who are believed to live in Paris. De Libran smartly revisited Rykiel’s archives, blurring the autumn-winter 2016 wardrobe for women between daywear and eveningwear. From Mongolian lamb coats to black lace dresses, the collection was filled with flattering (and effortlessly wearable) pieces. You simply felt sympathy for this sensual, intelligent and eternally stylish femme.

Brave Velvets. Haider Ackermann AW16

March 8, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s a tough world outside and I want to have this gracefulness, this brightness, happiness,” Haider Ackermann said afterwards his autumn-winter 2016 show. “To show the other side of what we are confronted with every day.” Ackermann’s brave season is infinitely Haider, as the silhouettes, which continue to evolve from the last spring’s outing, are all about the jaw-dropping varsity jackets, super skinny pants and feminine dresses – and one of them, specifically, was cut up to the hip, looking fierce in velvet red. By coincidence, the Belgian designer moved the topic of the season’s hottest trend, so velvet (seen recently at Rochas and Vetements). It’s virually everywhere in this collection, ranging from dusty pink to emerald green. And it’s even in the hair of the models, tied up in for of colourful, quite abstract dreadlocks. Love it.

Les Amours Perdus. Lemaire AW16

March 5, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Christophe Lemaire‘s utterly French outing for his autumn-winter 2016 wasn’t just about models, who presented the clothes. The girls at Lemaire show glanced at the audience in a naturally captivating way – as if they weren’t models, but women who wear Christophe’s seductive dresses, felt wool pants and low-heeled shoes on daily basis. Lemaire isn’t the type of designer who changes his attitude season-to-seaon. The approach stays always the same, with just a few additions to the line. This season, the chic wardobe of his Parisian, intellectual female (supposedly his life-parter, Sarah-Linh Tran?) was expanded by cable-knits and blouses with Elizabethan sleeves. V-neck, black dresses were effortlessly styled with these nostalgic shirts, while the sophisticated all-black looks were contrasted by curcuma yellow shoulder bags and voluminous pantalons. Your clavicles will surely love the feminine satin top, and the outerwear lovers will have an affair with the shearling jacket. The delicate braids and simple, red lipstick are the lifelong companions of a Lemaire woman – just like the clothes she loves so much.