Dover Street Parfums Market

25 years after the launch of the first Comme des Garçons perfume, 15 years after opening the first Dover Street Market in London, Comme des Garçons opens Dover Street Parfums Market in Paris. It’s a place you never knew you needed so much. Located two minutes from Musée Picasso, this outpost of DSM is dedicated to beauty with a selection of perfumes, cosmetic and make-up brands from around the world. From avant-garde independent young labels (Kerosene, 19-69, Ormaie…) to the most established and classic references, it’s an explosion of scents, sounds and textures. Skincare, body and hair care products are also part of the proposal, with a majority of sustainable and organic brands aimed for all the human spectrum. It’s about authencity, diversity, originality and inclusivity. Special guests include Gucci with its Alchemist’s Garden line; Byredo’s unique corner; events by MAC cosmetics (and their Instagram-big Comme Des Garçons tattoo kit available only here); Julien D’Ys’ hair installations; and Thom Browne who is about to launch his very first perfume range entitled 09.27.65. Dover Street Parfums Market has no commercial visuals, logos or gifts with purchases. As for the interior, Rei Kawakubo designed a forest of pillars with egg shaped shelves carved within them. Mainstream beauty stores and department stores are becoming even more bleak and charmless in my eyes now.

11 bis rue Elzevir / Paris

Chloë Sevigny x Régime des Fleurs

100 ml of pure heaven. I’m talking about Little Flower, the perfume made in collaboration between Régime des Fleurs, the fragrance label founded in Los Angeles by Alia Raza and Ezra Woods, and Chloë Sevigny, the film and fashion icon. Little Flower is Régime des Fleurs’ provocative take on Sevigny’s favorite bloom – the rose. Dewy, romantic and fleshy, with a woody musk finish. With black tea, bleeding heart (it’s actually a flower name, but then… who knows?), blackcurrant bud, peony, palo santo incense, pomelo, honeysuckle and a precious Ottoman rose absolute. I love Chloë Sevigny, I love Régime des Fleurs, I love roses – so I’m dying to try this perfume out.

Chloë Sevigny photographed by Inez & Vinoodh and styled by Haley Wollens.

Meeting Ormaie

About a month and half ago (yes, I know it’s been a while… but the coverage of all the fashion weeks going on felt like an eternity), I went to Warsaw for Galilu’s intimate meeting with the mum-and-son duo behind Ormaie Paris, a niche perfume label that’s more than just a scent. Ormaie is a family run fragrance maison with roots deep in art and nature. Creativity is at the heart of the brand – Ormaie’s founders, Marie-Lise Jonak and Baptiste Bouygues, have brought together artists and artisans to write each chapter of the Ormaie story. All of the Ormaie fragrances (there are seven) are composed solely of natural ingredients with the ultimate goal of elegance and quality. The ultra-chic, geometrical flacons attract the eyes; the titles and descriptions of each of the perfumes excite the mind. Let’s see. Yvonne is modern homage to the classical feminine perfume, blending rose and the chypre notes with the scent of red fruits (and it appealed to me so much that I had to get it the moment I discovered it at Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées in Paris). Toï Toï Toï, a German expression ballet dancers say to wish good luck before going on to perform, labels a fragrance that evokes polished wooden boards of the stage and the dancer’s waxed ballet shoes. Meanwhile L’Ivrée Bleue is a narcotic scent that depicts the eroticism of Gauguin and the jungle themes of Rosseau. It smells dark vanilla, of rum and of the scents of the island. Oh my.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Buly 1803 in Paris

Starting in the late 18th century, the famed “Bully”, established in 1803 on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, made a name for himself (which he then wore with a double consonant). At the turn of the 19th century, perfumers were still the heirs of the craftsmen from the Ancien Régime, and the keepers of their trade secrets. The fervour of perfumes followed in the wake of a fresh openness to the world and to its novel, sometimes exotic flowers – as with Joséphine de Beauharnais, who imported to France and acclimatized new olfactory species and audacities. Bully welcomed the advances of science and cosmetics to formulate his own inventions in form of perfumes and scented oils. Among these, his remarkable skin care products achieved lasting fame. Throughout the Golden Century of beauty, which witnessed the invention of the first formulations of modern cosmetics and perfumery, the ‘officine’ gradually established itself as a trend-setter.

Today, Buly 1803 is reborn in Paris, on rue Bonaparte 6 in the sixth arrondissement, with a different spelling and a refreshed concept. Visiting their boutique was like entering a cabinet de curiosités, falling hard for the opulent marble furniture, antique illustrations on the walls, and Japanese porcelain flacons costing 3000 euros and up. The revamped water-based perfume line surprises and intrigues with compositions such as Peruvian Heliotrope, Kiso Yuzu, Sevillian Brigarade or Mexican Tuberose. Buly 1803 is a true gem and it’s quite unbelievable to find brands like this in our world of fast, mass-consumption.

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

On My (Perfume) Shelf

Hello in 2019! The festive season appeared to be very, very fruitful in Santa gifts… here are the two fragrances I’ve completely lost my mind for. Also, it appears I’m a sucker for tonka bean.

Unknown Pleasures by Kerosene / You’re walking down a cold street in England, listening to Joy Division, sipping on a warm cup of London Fog. This fragrance opens up with the smooth sweetness of honey with Earl Grey tea, with a zing of lemon. It dries down to a cozy vanilla, soft tonka bean and waffle cone base, sure to make any gourmand lover smileNotes? Earl Grey tea, lemon, bergamot, honey, tonka bean, baramel, vanilla and waffle cone.

Tonka 25 by Le Labo / This one is dark. A good, addictive, warm dark, as if the humid summer underwoods, their seeds and resins, were sprinkled with layers of musks and sweetened with drops of vanilla. The perfumer’s notes say orange flower absolute, the unique cedar atlas, styrax resins, absolute tonka and musks… get this one right in here.

Photo by Edward Kanarecki.

Ormaie Paris

Ormaie Paris is a family run fragrance maison with roots deep in art and nature. Creativity is at the heart of the brand – Ormaie’s founders have brought together artists and artisans to write each chapter of the Ormaie story. All of the Ormaie fragrances (there are seven) are composed solely of natural ingredients with the ultimate goal of elegance and quality. The ultra-chic, geometrical flacons attract the eyes; the titles and descriptions of each of the perfumes excite the mind. Let’s see. Yvonne is modern homage to the classical feminine perfume, blending rose and the chypre notes with the scent of red fruits. Toï Toï Toï, a German expression ballet dancers say to wish good luck before going on to perform, labels a fragrance that evokes polished wooden boards of the stage and the dancer’s waxed ballet shoes. Meanwhile L’Ivrée Bleue is a narcotic scent that depicts the eroticism of Gauguin and the jungle themes of Rosseau. It smells dark vanilla, of rum and of the scents of the island. Oh my. Want more? Read here. Want to buy right away, impulsively, just like me? Well, at the moment Ormaie sells only at Barneys New York. New Yorkers, lucky you. The rest got to dream for a while.

Mondo Mondo

Mondo Mondo is a jewelry and fragrance label based in Los Angeles. The brand provides a visual and sensual world inspired by archaic wonders and baroque ornamentation – there’s nothing simple about it, that’s for sure. Mondo Mondo, a name chosen for its cinematic undertones,  utilizes the ancient art of storytelling to guide the designs. Intrinsically archetypal, Natasha Ghosn’s pieces become both personal and universal. Whether it’s a heart pendant, ‘Soleil’ earrings with rhinestone chains or (my favourite) ‘Friend’ ring in sterling, there’s something magical about those made to order goodies. The fragrance line by Ghosn is equally elusive, yet appealing. The descriptions of the six perfumes make you dream. I Like You In Velvet is summed in the following way: “in an iridescent cloud of iris and carrots I found my expression. Silk gloves, lipstick wax, silver like the movies. Ballet, jazz, and modern dance, too.” Then, we’ve got the greenish Cowboy. “Here the spirit of the Cowboy is represented as The Fool in this unisex fragrance. He is free, naive, and fearless. You can find him sleeping peacefully under the stars.” Tobacco, leather and grass combined with honeysuckle and coffee must be some sort of nasal ecstasy. Would love to try each of them, but the brand sadly doesn’t ship alcohol-based products to Europe. Still, whether you’re in USA or not, check out Mondo Mondo’s site for more!

Le Labo in Berlin

IMG_5017

The leathery scent of Santal 33 is like a drug. Bitter sweetness of Bergamote 22 is a sensual refreshment. Neroli 36 feels like liquid memoir of an Italian summer. I’m speaking of Le Labo, a brand that’s not just about (already) desirable branding, but powerful fragrances. Heralded as one of the best niche fragrances brands in the world, Le Labo boasts a core selection of unique fragrances and exclusive scents available in nine cities. Their newly opened store in Berlin‘s Mitte district is as delightful as the products available there. Those old tiles on the walls, heavy wooden counters, vintage sofas… honestly, wouldn’t mind staying here for much longer.

Alte Schönhauser Str. 26 / Berlin

Slide4Slide1-kopiaSlide2Slide3-kopia

Photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Buly 1803

SONY DSC

Starting in the late 18th century, the famed “Bully”, established in 1803 on Rue Saint-Honoré in Paris, made a name for himself (which he then wore with a double consonant). At the turn of the 19th century, perfumers were still the heirs of the craftsmen from the Ancien Régime, and the keepers of their trade secrets. The vogue of perfumes followed in the wake of a fresh openness to the world and to its novel, sometimes exotic flowers – as with Joséphine de Beauharnais, who imported to France and acclimatized new olfactory species and audacities. Bully welcomed the advances of science and cosmetics to formulate his own inventions in form of perfumes and scented oils. Among these, his remarkable skin care products achieved lasting fame. Throughout the Golden Century of beauty, which witnessed the invention of the first formulations of modern cosmetics and perfumery, the ‘officine’ gradually established itself as a trend-setter.

Today, Buly 1803 is reborn in Paris, on rue Bonaparte 6 in the sixth arrondissement, with a different spelling and a refreshed concept. Visiting their boutique was like entering a cabinet de curiosités, falling hard for the opulent marble furniture, antique illustrations on the walls, and Japanese porcelain flacons costing 3000 euros and up. Buly 1803 is a true gem and it’s quite unbelievable to find brands like this in our world of fast, mass-consumption.

Discover Buly 1803 finest products: Buly 1803 Pommade Concrète balmBuly 1803 Campagne D’italie candle & Buly 1803 tortoiseshell comb.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki