Marine Serre‘s spring-summer 2020 collection, entitled Marée Noire (‘black water’, ‘dark tide’ in French), was unapologetically… Marine Serre. It’s really incredible that Serre, whose label is still relatively young and small as for Parisian standards, has such a distinct, signature look, not even mentioning her already cult moon crest print that is a street style classic. Under today’s grey, Parisian sky and in the misty rain, Marine sent down a fierce line-up of models at all ages, races and genders, some pregnant or with their dogs. This was another post-apocalyptic vision of chic according to Serre, which was much more defined and not so over-styled as last season: utilitarian jumpsuits with buckles, over-sized coats in PVC, hour-glass-shaped blazers and jackets, scuba-diving dresses with up-cycled silk scarf inserts (Marine Serre’s another ground-breaking signature, which is all about sustainability). Some of the models looked angry, while the collection’s main accessory – black rubber gloves – bring on some affiliations (serial killers, for instance?). But there was also light in Marine’s dystopian world (well, ours, if things keep on going the way they do now). A number of looks were all about white crotchet knits, there were even floral prints popping on maxi-skirts. Some girls wore towel turbans on their heads, while few skirts and dresses were actual towels as well, but couture-draped (this might be next season’s trend, just take a look at Prada) Maybe these women just took a bath in the previously mentioned, intoxicated, black water? The designer leaves you wondering, which is a rarity in today’s fashion. This was one of the strongest line-ups coming from Marine, consistent and intriguing. That’s a very good start of Paris fashion week.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.