Erotic Decadence. Comme des Garçons AW16

March 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“18th century punk” is how Rei Kawakubo, the 73-year old designer behind Comme des Garçons entitled her autumn-winter 2016. But don’t expect opulent ball-dresses with tomahawks (although Julien D’Ys, Rei’s long-time collaborator, created those grandiose hair constructions for this occasion) – this collection pushed all the possible concepts of both, the past of historical costumes and punk. And, it was really all about sex and fantasies, with gigantic tongues, and – well, let your naughty imagination work it out – layered garments with “balls”, rendered in Lyon’s finest (and most expensive) tapestry. The closing look worn by Anna Cleveland, so the pastel-pink, leather piece with exaggerated, ruffled sleeves was a defiant reconstruction of Marie Antoinette’s coat, in which she would surely have a cupcake, or two. It subtly exposed calves, just like the rest of the extraordinary “dresses”. Another look, also in the same shade of pink, was an elongated blazers with harness belts tied all around the model’s body, while the floral armor made of booming, red fur pom poms shouted one thing – make love, don’t fight. There was a decadent, bourgeois feeling of couture, but simultaneously, Kawakubo broke up with chambre syndicale conventions, and totally ripped the French fanciness off. Who do you call a rebel now?

Not Just a Punk. Acne Studios AW16

March 9, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

You always feel an energetic attitude at Acne Studios collections, naturally caused by the bold colour palette, psychedelic prints and the 80s spirit which surrounds the clothes. The creative director of the brand, Jonny Johansson, has been inspired by a Californian punk band, The Cramps, and their rebellious, acid-dyed looks. But the autumn-winter 2016 outing wasn’t a wannabe “grunge” collection. Johansson reinterpreted his obsession, playing with silhouettes (orange, duvet jackets worn as kimono dresses, for example) and textures. From a transparent PVC top, which hid a striped mini-dress, to über-cool yellow leopard patterns on the knits and undies, the designer proves that a punk soul has many forms of its appearance – but it always keeps on looking defiant, and going against the flow!

Brave Velvets. Haider Ackermann AW16

March 8, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“It’s a tough world outside and I want to have this gracefulness, this brightness, happiness,” Haider Ackermann said afterwards his autumn-winter 2016 show. “To show the other side of what we are confronted with every day.” Ackermann’s brave season is infinitely Haider, as the silhouettes, which continue to evolve from the last spring’s outing, are all about the jaw-dropping varsity jackets, super skinny pants and feminine dresses – and one of them, specifically, was cut up to the hip, looking fierce in velvet red. By coincidence, the Belgian designer moved the topic of the season’s hottest trend, so velvet (seen recently at Rochas and Vetements). It’s virually everywhere in this collection, ranging from dusty pink to emerald green. And it’s even in the hair of the models, tied up in for of colourful, quite abstract dreadlocks. Love it.

Ageing like a Forest. Undercover AW16

March 7, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Ageing is beautiful, and Jun Takahashi of Undercover reminds the industry about that. “Making relaxwear for all ages” was the main concept behind this avant-garde outing, filled with printed pajamas, cocooning knitwear (the pastel blue cardigan striped coat had this lovely, spongy texture!) and layered outerwear. The models’ age range varied, and such silver-haired beauties as Hannelore Knuts appeared in the show, wearing a white crown of thorns – but not with a religious message, so no doubts. It was rather connected to the imaginary, ethereal queens of forests which also had dried hydrangeas in their hair. Another clue of the forest life inspiration? Gigantic, felt wool ants and bees carried like stoles by the Undercover women. Takahashi goes against the flow, and he has a talent of doing what he does best – not looking at other designers’ work.

The gold corset jacket with a voluminous, ballerina skirt… mesmerising.

Freud’s Office. Loewe AW16

March 7, 2016March 7, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“You are completely relaxed, completely at ease . . . .”

Jonathan Anderson‘s brilliant collection for Loewe felt like a Sigmund Freud’s psychotherapy, which entered your mind. The waiting-room beige shade of Maison de l’UNESCO and the designer chairs from mid-20th century made all the guests relaxed, and feel calmer, even though the Paris Fashion Week’s stir and fuss continues. And, it was a great occasion to see Anderson’s latest vision for the brand, with his artisan touches, eclectic accessories and fabulous bags, which are Loewe’s signature. The clientele of the Spanish label, who supposedly is a base of middle-aged women with an interest in collecting contemporary art and rare furniture, will surely fall in love with these arty mesh skirts and dark tan leathers. “Curated” is as important in this collection, as in the live of these women. The resin cat necklaces came out of the blue, giving an edgy twist to the collection. The minimal corsets were covered with pleats of gold, just like the Arizona totes. Some of the handbags were worn in doubles, while other were made from fringed, oriental textiles. In comparison to last season’s overload of plastic pants and senseless silhouettes, this time Anderson delivered a strong collection, keeping Loewe on the season’s “highlight” list.