Chic Punk. Haider Ackermann AW15

March 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Haider Ackermann’s latest presentation for fall exuded chic and rock ‘n’ roll at the same time – the models red pussy bow shirts, pirate jackets, safety pins in their hair and leather trousers. Basically, that was a collection full of cool Haider signatures. The clothes were slim, but chaotic at the same time thanks to the mastered layering; the embroidery, which seemed refreshing for Ackermann was all about metallic stationery and print mash-up. “I wanted colour, I wanted to have fun” was how the designer described his collection. Definitely, that’s a go-to collection for a Parisian party with loud music, alcohol and cigarettes.

Technology Attack. Junya Watanabe AW15

March 11, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Junya Watanabe is considered as one of the most modernistic designer of our times. This season, he prepared another break-out which seems to be out of this world – thanks to high technology and Tomihiro Kono’s help, the AW15 season for the designer means the importance of maths. Isamaya Ffrench doodled mathematical equations onto the arms, legs and necks of the models while Tomihiro Kono created angular foam sculptures to sit on the top of their heads. The two Japanese geniuses worked together to create fashion in new dimension. The capes made out of hexagonal, laser & hand – cut textiles were fixed and improved for more than three months – it took a lot of time calculating its durability. If talking of the alien head-pieces, Kono approves – that was a hard thing to do. “I started to calculate the circumference using the diameter…it was like studying maths back at school. I made a column for the base of the head-pieces and then added some hair-wings in a radial pattern.” Definitely, science and fashion get closer and closer together each season…

Noir Creatures. Yohji Yamamoto AW15

March 10, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

The poet of black, Yohji Yamamoto, pushes the boundary again in his avant-garde world. The dresses weren’t dresses anymore. They were a form of art installations. Like a parachute explosion worn over a black turtleneck. Or a vacuum cleaner overload. There are many interpretations of Yohji’s fall fantasy – one thing’s sure. The more ready-to-wear clothes were great, too. In the black palette, Yohji Yamamoto modifies knitwear, shirts and masculine-inspired silhouettes to form a new dimension. The layering impresses as usual, making the models magically drown in black. Styled with perfect fedoras, the outfits were eccentric and wearable at the same time – even though, some might have been still under construction.

Abstract Feel. Dior AW15

March 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Oh yes! Raf Simons again makes his fashion interesting. For fall, the RTW collection looks cosmic – high-tech sequins look like second, shiny skin of the model; the psychodelic latex boots and printed dresses are super eye-catchy. The green coat is toxic in it’s beauty. Everything lacquered and at the same time reminding something of reptiles and other animals. The furs and interesting fluid-like craft techniques are mind-blowing. Raf Simons described this collection not only primitive in a sense, but as “something more liberated, darker, more sexual.” Something more than Dior’s femme fleur, in other words which he brought monotonously for few seasons.

Don’t Leave Me Now. Loewe AW15

March 9, 2015August 21, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson’s second women ready-to-wear collection for Loewe is a fresh look at a traveler’s wardrobe – tweed pants, comfy over-sized jackets, warm cashmere turtlenecks and easy dresses are just few of the new basics Anderson offers for the luxe voyagers. And just to heat it up, the British designer mixed bold, colourful accents with seriously good accessories – the Puzzle bag in blue or emerald suede is everything .”Like Spanish women,” he added. “They know who they are, they know how to have fun.” The Loewe woman for fall thinks about flirting, too – the huge sunglasses said it all. The azure pleated skirts drifted through the air in a very romantic way. Although the collection reminds me of J.W. Anderson’s London presentation, it still leaves a positive feeling.