Le Depot. Vetements AW15

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Demna Gvasalia invited the guests to a 70’s famous, gay club “Le Depot”, where his fall collection was presented. The Maison Margiela alumn nailed it, just like last season – the clothes had this “whatever” attitude shouting all over them; it’s rare in Paris nowadays to see such an alternative fashion show – just like Jacquemus, Gvasalia brings old fresh mood in interesting venues. If talking of the clothes, we can observe two major things going on in here. First, the over-size trend which seems to be a signature for this brand. Second, the “Sapeurs-Pompiers” and “Sécurité” T-shirts, which looked like they might’ve been brought out in response to the Charlie Hebdo attacks that terrified the world earlier this year. And, of course it’s impossible not to mention other pieces – the exaggerated aviator jacket, the patent leather XXL boots, the mohair mini-skirts and the motor-bad-girl jacket.

But why was the show presented in “Le Depot”?“ “In Paris all of the good clubs shut down in the 70s,” said one of the designer after the show. The club culture that once gave birth to subversive subcultures might be dead, but Vetements team are ready to inject the city’s fashion scene with a punk spirit. There was no better place for it, than a  red light-lit sex club. “I feel like there is a new energy in here. We want to push it – not necessarily to bring anything back, but to give it a new life. Things are still quite dusty, old and conservative.” You better keep your mind on this brand.

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Boheme Flashback. Lanvin AW15

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Alber Elbaz AGAIN gives us boheme chic. Yes, it’s great, but not when you see it each season for the second year. Same sequins, feathers and prints. And those Pucci-esque gypsy themes… I say no to that, even though we’ve got some ultra appealing shades of burgundy here.

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Savage Purity. Rick Owens AW15

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After the menswear show, I thought that Rick Owens will go full frontal, too, for women. But he totally took another direction – wild and gold were the keywords of the collection. The models had gold and sliver plated on their faces while hair of different animals jutted out of the savagely tied and layered tunics and dresses. The final effect is strong, I must say – the models looked totally out-of-this world in this type of styling. If talking of the clothes, we’ve got some interesting embroidery and detailing; the colour palette is earthy and surprisingly warm us for Rick’s dark world.

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Grace Jones. Balmain AW15

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Olivier Rousteing’s heavy tribute to Grace Jones was visible at every point of his new collection for Balmain – the bold shapes of accessories, the vibrant patterns, the non-chalant cuts, capes and over-sized pantalons – I mean, EVERYTHING. Glamour, chic, sex – with a bit of cheesy accents – felt on the right place, like always at Balmain. A continuation on the eighties themes that we’ve seen developing successively for AW15 naturally was present. It was a collection that showed Rousteing doing what he does best: power dressing some of the world’s most recognisable faces and icons.

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Astronauts. Paco Rabanne AW15

 

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In the 20th century, Paco Rabanne wanted to create a wardrobe for modern women; in 21st century, we’ve got Julien Dossena who wants to make Paco Rabanne the future go-to label. The result for AW15 is pleasing – iconic chain dresses, astronaut-like mesh jackets (like the one worn by Aya Jones), voluminous varsity jackets and very wearable ankle boots. The zips were the key here, too – they were mostly everywhere, giving us some leg or exposing shoulders. The sheer fabrics there and there and brought sex-appeal which was slightly missed by Julien in previous seasons. In other words – Dossena feels like in the right shoes at Paco’s house.

By me for nuicons.com

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