Antwerp’s Addresses

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Firstly, I adore Antwerp for its fashion heritage, which consists of Martin Margiela, Dries Van Noten, Ann Demeulemeester and many other creators whose style and idiosyncratic aesthetics continue to contribute to contemporary fashion. That aura is incredible, and it’s perceivable that the locals celebrate their home designers. But my great love for this Belgian city is as well based on the local stores and boutiques, which always surprise me with their selection of brands and items they sell. These shop-keepers are truly passionate about their work! Been to Antwerp exactly last year, and I was more than happy to re-visit all my favourite addresses this time and see how they progress. And found some new ones as well. I must admit that it would be great to discover more of the city’s ‘cultural’ part. Sadly, the two major museums of Antwerp – The Royal Museum of Fine Arts and MoMu – are temporarily closed for renovation. Who knows, maybe next year?

But for now, scroll down to explore my beloved spots in this forever intriguing city.

Ann Demeulemeester

Entering Ann Demeulemeester‘s spacious store is like approaching the church alter. The Belgian fashion designer’s dark romance oozes from the lace vests, velvet shirts and Victorian frocks with absorbing power, while the multi-storey boutique has a sacred charm about it. The white-wall backdrop makes you look at the details of the clothes with great scrutiny, quite breathless. Ann’s fashion used to be pure poetry with a Flemish twist, and fortunately, Sebastian Meunièr, the current creative director, successfully conveys the Demeulemeester codes in his women’s and men’s collections. And with the help of the Antwerp flagship store – which also holds the studio and atelier – Ann Demeulmeester appears to be one of the finest of Belgian fashion.

Leopold de Waelplaats

Coffee & Vinyl

Love coffee as much as good music? There’s no better place in Antwerp, then. Browse the vast collection of vinyls, from rare Serge Gainsbourg records to Portishead’s albums, while taking a sip of the delightful espresso. For those who love vinyls, but are too audio, there’s an equally impressive selection of CDs.

Volkstraat 45

Atelier D’Anvers

Just a stone throw from the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, Atelier D’Anvers is a cozy space with a relatively affordable, very well-curated brands. Bags by Jerome Dreyfuss and Sicilian scents by Ortigia are a chic addition to the silk floral dresses, shearling coats and corduroy trousers you will definitely find here.

Volkstraat 54

Enes

A multibrand concept store with a wide range of labels: Joseph, Baum Und Pferdgarten, Vince, Frame, Morobé, J Brand, MSGM… If you’re not really into the clothes Enes sells, the interior will surely surprise. The first floor, filled with plants, little sofas and cushions, has a beautiful outdoor patio, while the second floor has those dramatic hand-carved, wooden walls.

Volkstraat 58

Charlie’s

A quite new breakfast, brunch and coffee spot that feels like a spacious apartment located in a townhouse. Everyday there’s a new specialty menu. That day they served a toast with avocado and crab, which was a literal taste heaven. Classics, like matcha and salad bowls, are always here.

Volkstraat 66

Dries Van Noten

The mecca. The building, in which you see the Van Noten boutique, is fully owned by the designer and is gracefully called Het Modepalais (‘fashion palace’). The name might sound quite over-the-top, but the store is far from that term. It’s like Dries’ fashion – refined, but with an edge. The store feels like an apartment that is temporarily ‘furnished’ with the designer’s gorgeous clothes and accessories from the autumn-winter 2018 collection. Fresh flower bouquets make this place even more like at home.

Nationalestraat 16

A.F. Vandevorst

A.F. Vandevorst‘s store is small, but dynamic. The brand is known for their off-kilter, punky attitude. You better get your hands on those signature, pointy-toe boots – they sell out quickly. I noticed that the boutique sells less clothes than it did last year – quite possibly this Belgian label decided to focus more on leather goods, while keep the ready-to-wear on a bespoke, couture level.

Lombardenvest 20

Graanmarkt 13

I know and admire Graanmarkt 13 for years. At the end of a small old square, there it is: a large space called just like its address. Designed by Vincent Van Buysen, filled with natural light and eclectic furniture, we’ve got the most charming place in the whole Antwerp. The store lately had a transition moment, when they switched from big brands like Marni and Isabel Marant into timeless and more niche ones: Lemaire, Kassl, Salle Privee, Simon Miller or Sofie D’hoor to name a few. The aim was to stop being a victim of fashion industry’s pace of endless trends and collections, and to stay true to personal style and love for quality.  While the store itself is already a fantastic place in its concept, Graanmarkt 13 also has an already renowned restaurant serving organic food (downstairs), a footwear and perfume spot (first floor) and a far-fetched apartment for rent (top floor).

Graanmarkt 13

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All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Brugge’s Addresses

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Planning your trip to Brugge? You might want to take a look at the five addresses I found here during my last stay (and completely fell in love with!). From rare jewellery vintage to delightful home decor boutiques, Brugge isn’t just canals and heavy history as many people blindly think.

Greet Verbeke Antiques

I really wouldn’t mind staying here forever. Greet Verbeke is one of the major antique dealers in Brugge. Her passion for antiques and contemporary art doesn’t go unnoticed. Greet travels all over Europe searching for collector’s items – each piece is chosen by herself. From silver tableware and museum taxidermy to perfume flacons (Nina Ricci, Coco Chanel) and vintage jewellery, this place is like a treasure chest. The jewellery selection is especially impressive: a Christian Dior brooch, Christian Lacroix iconic hearts, Yves Saint Laurent pendants, 80s Céline gold earrings, Italian hoops from the 50s… just wow.

Sint-Jakobsstraat 53

Cafuné Espressobar

Although Brugge appeared to be a culinary dissapointment this time, it at least surprised with good coffee at Cafuné. Drop for a classical espresso macchiato and taste their homemade pastry.

Academiestraat 8

L’Héroïne 

This is the place where Belgian fashion lovers should definitely go to. It’s like Antwerp, but in a nutshell. Dries Van Noten, A.F. Vandevorst, Christian Wijnants and Sofie D’Hoore are all here. But there as well some Parisian bits, like Lemaire. Note the minimal interior with a lovely, ivy backyard.

Noordzandstraat 32

Serendipity

Looking for a hand-woven rag from Africa or an ethically-made basket? Serendipity is the place for you, then. It’s this kind of slow buying place, where you’ve got to first experience the tactility and craftsmanship of every single piece before you go to the cashier. There’s also the beauty corner devoted to Laboratorio Olfattivo. Got Patchouliful scent on my mind…

Sint-Jakobsstraat 56

Frederiek Van Pamel

Another place in Brugge which I wouldn’t mind considering as a place to live. Frederiek Van Pamel’s store feels like a real space, with one exception – everything you see is available to buy. Whether it’s a garden bench, a rare Richard Avedon catalogue, a ceramic flower or an Ortigia Sicily perfume, Van Pamel sells items he curates and loves. There’s also a little flower shop at the entrace!

Ezelstraat 33

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That’s it for Brugge. You will also find more addresses in the newly updated ‘Places‘ page. Antwerp and Knokke guides are coming up very soon!

Sticks ‘n’ Sushi in Berlin

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Just a few steps from Andreas Murkudis and Acne Studios, there’s the two-storey heaven called Sticks ‘n’ Sushi. Although I rarely go to restaurant chains, this one from Copenhagen is an absolute exception. Opened more than a year ago in Berlin, this place has the most refined sushi (and other Japanese specialties) in the city. From the signature rice paper rolls and beef tataki with yuzu sauce to wagyu tartare and the most sensational versions of maki, Sticks ‘n’ Sushi pleases with freshness and inventiveness. Also, I really love the atmosphere in here, which makes me think of New York and those crowdy, stylish Sex & The City-like restaurants. If only the prices could be slightly lower! Still, they’re totally justified, as the quality of every single plate is perfect. And that matcha for dessert…

If looking for something more ‘casual’, but equally good in Berlin, go to Sasaya (good luck with booking a table there, though…).

Potsdamer Straße 85 / Berlin

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Bologna’s Addresses

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I first wrote about Bologna, the city itself, separately right here. But it wouldn’t be me if I omitted the ‘guide’ part… so, treat yourself this Monday afternoon with the five addresses from the hometown of Bolognese sauce. And take a pen to write down those places, just in case you’re planning your August trip there.

Drogheria Della Rosa

In my humble opinion, that’s the best restaurant in Bologna. Located in a former pharmacy, the food here is quintessentially Italian and feels like made by your grandma from Bologna whose existence was unknown to you for all these years. Yes, it’s that good. It’s highly recommended to make a reservation.

Via Cartoleria 10

L’Inde Le Palais Donna & Uomo

Céline, Gucci, Dries Van Noten and Magda Butrym in the fanciest, palazzo-like interiors. Very lovely customer care. And a truly unique selection of womenswear and menswear, which was quite unexpected – most luxury multibrands in Italy sell precisely the SAME stuff, from the same labels. Here you can notice the presence of a risk-taking buyer.

 Via de’ Foscherari 19/C and Via de’ Musei 6

Camera Con Vista

Although the opulent interior with Roman statues and few chandeliers might suggest old, good Italian cuisine, Camera Con Vista surprises with its signature, Asian additions to nearly every dish. If you feel like you want to slightly change the culinary repertoire, make sure to try this place out. Book in advance.

Via Santo Stefano 14/2a

Ratti & Folli Follie

That’s another luxury multibrand in Bologna, with an equally charming selection of brands – Simone Rocha and Calvin Klein are here, just to name a few. Fashion in Bologna loves a major interior. While the menswear part, Ratti, is cosmic-industrial, women’s Folli Follie is a multi-storey, XXL wardrobe where it’s easy to get lost while looking for a Balenciaga goodie (that’s probably on a heavy discount, by the way).

Via Clavature 15

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Casa Minghetti

Groovy spot for an evening appetizer and drink. But rather a pre-spot to go just before dinner.

Piazza Minghetti, 1A

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That’s the last post regarding my road trip to Italy. See the newly updated ‘Places‘ page to find all of my beloved addresses in Genoa, Portofino, Parma and Bologna!

Bologna – Not Just Bolognese

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Before, when I heard about Bologna, I instantly thought about food. Maybe because Bologna’s cuisine is said to be the best in the entire Europe – and not just because of the Bolognese sauce (by the way, the locals don’t use that name – they call it simply ‘pasta with ragu’). But visiting Bologna made me realise how beautiful this city is, not just from the taste buds’ aspect. The old city centre is filled with remains of its medieval history: countless towers, palaces, churches and brick facades. The San Petronio Church is especially stunning, with its marble floors and neck-breaking ceiling heights. Make sure to visit Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio, contructed back in 1563. There, you will find the all-wooden Teatro Anatomico, so the place where the human corpses were dissected in front of the medical students for educational matters the first time in history (note that Bologna is the city of some of the oldest universities in the world). In the same building, there’s the mind-blowing library, mostly closed for the tourists. But still, the view of it from behind the see-through doors is quite something. Also, we went to Pinacoteca Nazionale, the ‘richest’ museum in Bologna – but it was quite a disappointment. It served as a good starting point for the long walk back to the centre. When you’re in Bologna, take your time to ‘get lost’ in the streets of this magnificent, red city – or else you won’t really feel it

I will post my favourite addresses in Bologna soon!

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.