City. Proenza Schouler AW19

Proenza Schouler’s autumn-winter 2019 is one of those collection that need a second look. At first I thought that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s line-up felt repetitive. But then, I realised how strong this collection is. It’s all about construction, whether we’re speaking of a dress’ hem or a coat’s lapel. Tailoring was definitely the best part, as it looked ready for the big, urban New York life. Just look at the wool, over-sized suits! Up to now it’s the only power dressing that matters this NYFW. The slouchy, black knits with scarves attached to collars softened the mannish proportions. Let’s move on to outerwear. Veronika Kunz looked just fire in a garment that looked like a denim vest patched over a classical trench coat. I also adored the deconstructed leather coat on Julia Nobis, inspired by Sol LeWitt’s incomplete cubes. It’s the second season since Proenza Schouler came back home from Paris, and it’s clear where the New York boys feel best…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Suit Up. Thom Browne Pre-Fall 2019

Thom Browne‘s pre-fall 2019 collection is quintessentially… Thom Browne. Expect the designer’s subversive take on suiting – whether we’re speaking of an over-sized, wool blazer worn over an equally ‘business’ dress (and a crisp white shirt with a tie, layered underneath) or something more playful, say, duck-print tailored jackets with matching knee-lenght skirts. The look-book as well sees the designer’s signature intarsia techniques: tie stripes meet willows, landscapes and even more geese. Also, really love the shoes, kept in red, white and black. They look as bold as Browne’s upside-down elegance.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Power Dressing. Tom Ford SS19

After his over-the-top, kitschy-chic fashion show back in spring, Tom Ford’s spring-summer 2019 collection felt like a colour detox mixed with self-reflection. Black, white, beiges and pale lilac were the leading shades, while the entire line-up took us down the memory lane of Ford’s career. For a moment, we all experienced again his 90s momentum at Gucci, that was all about refined sexiness and confidence – words that match the designer’s current work with the same precision. To a surprise of many, there were as well references to the few year tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, the period that shaped Tom’s aesthetic into a more sublime, after-dark vision of women.

But back to 2018. Draped skirts with lace inserts; jackets and blazers made of fake crocodile leather; satin cocktail dresses and evening gowns with pony-hair details. Some of the looks are fit for goddesses of seduction, other for cosmopolitan bosses. This one all-leather look seemed to be taken straight out of Roxy Music’s cover that featured Amanda Lear. But no, in the end this collection wasn’t created with a dominatrix in mind, but for powerful women who want garments that look equally powerful. The menswear part can be described with one word: handsome. Conclusion: when the evening comes, you want to meet both, the Ford woman and Ford man.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.