Proenza Schouler’s autumn-winter 2019 is one of those collection that need a second look. At first I thought that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s line-up felt repetitive. But then, I realised how strong this collection is. It’s all about construction, whether we’re speaking of a dress’ hem or a coat’s lapel. Tailoring was definitely the best part, as it looked ready for the big, urban New York life. Just look at the wool, over-sized suits! Up to now it’s the only power dressing that matters this NYFW. The slouchy, black knits with scarves attached to collars softened the mannish proportions. Let’s move on to outerwear. Veronika Kunz looked just fire in a garment that looked like a denim vest patched over a classical trench coat. I also adored the deconstructed leather coat on Julia Nobis, inspired by Sol LeWitt’s incomplete cubes. It’s the second season since Proenza Schouler came back home from Paris, and it’s clear where the New York boys feel best…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.