Autumn Breeze. Lemaire Pre-Fall’15

January 25, 2015January 25, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

After he left Hermes to concentrate on his own label, Christophe Lemaire is now showing pre-fall, too. The one for 2015 is his first one, and it’s… gorgeous. Presented on the beach in the Southern France, Lemaire dressed the model in his all time signatures – denim jacket and jeans combo, high quality wool & cashmere knitted sweater and the masculine coat. Isn’t that a timeless warbrobe? Also, we’ve saw red in his new designs – it looked dynamic, but at the same time toned and chic. In reality, with the word “chic” you can easily describe the whole collection. It’s absolutely stylish, wearable and perfect for autumn breeze. Biarritz… Firstly published on nuicons.com

Innovative. Acne Pre-Fall’15

January 15, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

For pre-fall, Acne thought about experimenting with texture – lace mixed with knittwear, lurex combines with leather, patch-work – all of that brought an interesting fuse. The first look was all about “wild” knitted sweater which totally confused the proportions of the model. Also, there was the cute knitted hat in lilac – a must-have. The signtaure vests and coats are here, too, but in new colours. The only thing that disturbs me are the shoes…

Faux Nostalgia. J.W. Anderson Pre-Fall’15

January 9, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Jonathan Anderson surprises. His SS15 was unexpectedly lady-like while pre-fall is very nostalgic – 60’s mini skirts, 70’s psychedelic prints and “granny” necklaces and bracelets. “Nothing works together,” he added gleefully during the presentation. “When something makes me uncomfortable, I resist the temptation to make it look good.” That’s visible- in this collection he mixes so many styles from the past, that the result seems to be modern, and surreal. A bit like the Soviet Russian architecture – at the first sight it seems to be modern, but in reality deep historical influences hide behind it’s walls.

Ukrainian Institute of Technology, Kiev

Presidium of the Russian Academies of Science, Moscow

Polythechnic Institute, Minsk

But coming back to the collection – “I’ve never been a designer designer,” he said. “I see it more as a look, what’s new right now.” And this—with its odd fabrics and peculiar proportions, cerebral and sensual—looks just that. New right now. But with faux cover which hides the old roots. The colours and textures combined with those curvy belts and emalia earrings makes me wonder. And I like when a collection makes me want to think, compare and research.

Never Gonna Love Again. Lanvin Pre-Fall’15

January 8, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Lanvin’s pre-fall is so into Lykke Li’s I Never Learn album for me. The song Never Gonna Love Again matches perfectly Mica Arganaraz and Jamie Bochert in this gorgeous look-book. So dramatic, so chic, so elusive… over-sized suits, loafers, fluffy furs, maxi dresses and beautiful floral embroidery – and everything fulfilled with a dose of mysterious fog. Alber Elbaz just keeps his style. Non-chalant, but utterly dandy with a feminine twist. Baby can you hear the rain fall on me, never gonna love again, baby can you hear my heart cry tonight, I can’t keep running away, this time I can’t keep running away ’cause I’m never gonna love again.

Surfboard Dreams. The Row Pre-Fall’15

January 7, 2015 | Design & Culture by Ed

Last pre-fall was dark and heavy. This pre-fall is light and smooth. Why? The Olsens went beach for this autumn. Surfboard inspirations? Yes, but in a very subtle way. Only the fastening zippers and fur ponchos worn like “surfers wear their towels”. And of course pool-slides with beaded and sequined straps handmade by a nonagenarian granny, The Row is known for its beautiful minimalism, but this season, as all the others for last few years, is perfect. The mood, the colour palette (lilac, beige, claret…) and textile usage. And the most important – everything is super wearable… again, The Row takes a bow.