The Look – Miu Miu Resort 2020

Remember Miu Miu‘s resort 2020 collection? And those floppy-brimmed sun hats layered over baseball caps? Assembled one on top of the other, their proportions conjured a vision of Ascot. A tweaked version of Ascot; Miuccia Prada said back then she’s never attended one. Here, the beautiful Ugbad Abdi wearing one of those in the enchanted, hydrangea-blooming secret garden…

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Look – Salvatore Ferragamo Resort 2020

In these very uncertain times, it’s worth trying to slow down and relax… and who wouldn’t love to stay home while wearing this gorgeous, over-sized jumpsuit from Salvatore Ferragamo‘s resort 2020 collection? In keeping with the elegant, streamlined approach Paul Andrew has introduced at Ferragamo – he calls it “sartorialism with a casual edge” – the designer as well emphasizes a workwear-inspired silhouette. Perfect for home meditating, lazy yoga or even reading a book on the balcony, no?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Between Morocco and California. Saint Laurent Resort 2020

The theme behind Anthony Vaccarello‘s resort 2020 line-up for Saint Laurent is parallel to his spring-summer menswear show staged on one of Malibu’s beaches. For both, Vaccarello had been thinking about how Morocco’s glittering hippie/boho enclaves of the late ’60s and early ’70s (distinctly Yves) are mirrored by the today’s free-spirited California. So, a black velvet smoking jacket, worn with a long black leather skirt with a fastening running down its front; a gold sequin lace camisole with white jeans; a pleated lurex skirt styled with boots, a barely-there tank-top and a big, heavy pendant… in terms of fashion, there’s nothing innovative (or even fresh) in Vaccarello’s “day-to-day” vision of a wardrobe. It nods to Yves’ eternal chic, yes, feels very California, yes, but in the end it still  looks like Hedi Slimane’s work for the house from the (not so distant) past. Really, how do clients choose between a denim, maxi-lenght skirt from Slimane’s Celine offering, and a nearly identical one with a Saint Laurent tag?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Statements Pieces. Balenciaga Resort 2020

Balenciaga released its resort 2020 look-book just in time when the clothes start to hit the stores. Demna Gvasalia‘s pre-collections for the maison aren’t as spectacular as the main shows (the spring-summer 2020 collection we’ve seen last month was one of his best to date!), but they sum up the label’s statement pieces: Balenciaga wardrobe “basics” (like tailoring with Cristobal Balenciaga’s couture volumes), the best-selling apparel and key bags. What else? Outsize parkas with their cheekbone-grazing collars, easy-wearing printed tea dresses in souvenir prints, XXL pajama sets… all this in the least matching colours you can imagine. But somehow, everything works together more than well. The look-book-opening coat is stamped with the Balenciaga logo in the familiar block print, but even without it one can identify the sloping shoulders, buttoned collar, and boxy, exaggerated fit as signature Gvasalia. And what’s my personal favourite from the line-up? The leather blouson-jacket in bold green, as pictured above.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Beautiful Silence. Azzedine Alaïa Resort 2020

The maison of Azzedine Alaïa doesn’t shock – which, surprisingly, is a good thing. Since Alaïa passed away, the brand decided not to desperately seek an outside designer who would turn the house upside down. Instead, the label is lead by the studio, which knows the Alaïa craft like no other. For resort 2020, which got released yesterday, we see precise, not-over-the-top, rather minimal garments that look simple in cut, but are the peak of tailoring mastership in fact. I mean, where else will you find a military-inspired jacket which looks this chic? The dresses, forever flattering to the body, are Alaïa classics that never get boring. Also, I really love the high-rise trousers styled with boyish, black shoes. The look-book, shot by Karim Sadli in Alaïa’s 3 Rooms apartments in Le Marais district (Paris’ best kept secret for the fashion insiders when fashion weeks come) is more than pleasing.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Like a Freshly Squeezed Juice. Rosie Assoulin Resort 2020

There’s no wonder why Rosie Assoulin‘s showroom in Paris was all over the Instagram for the last few days: her resort 2020 collection is this good. The New York-based brand’s look-book, photographed at a lovely-looking market with veggie and fruit stalls, presents some of the most gorgeous dresses out there this season. From the signature watercolour print day-dresses to delightful evening alternatives (the green dress with an XXL foulard needs a proper entrance), there’s a good variety of silhouettes and volumes. Rosie goes for loosely fitted tailoring as well, which brings this ‘formal, but comfortable wherever you are’ feeling. The colour palette? It’s like a freshly squeezed fuit cocktail in the middle of summer, bold, refreshing and juicy. Note this season’ accessories: the brand’s jug bags are coming in new shapes, and I’m especially in love with the straw baby covered in those abstract, multi-coloured, big dots. There’s joy all over this collection.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.