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The Look – Mugler Resort 2020

November 22, 2019 | Design & Culture by Ed

Debra Shaw wearing fierce red tailoring from Mugler‘s resort 2020 by Casey Cadwallader. Fire.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

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Posted in Fashion, Paris Casey Cadwallader Collage Debra Shaw Fashion Mugler Paris Resort 2020 style Tailoring

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WE HAVE ART NOT TO DIE OF THE TRUTH ❤️ #DACBE: #MarcJacobs quoted Friedrich Nietzsche in his #AW22 show notes. Confronted with the brutal state of things, from rogue Supreme Court determined to strip women of their reproductive rights to Clarence Thomas threatening to attack gay marriage next, fury may give way to despair. But that’s not where Jacobs is at. “Creativity is essential to living,” his statement read. More about this F-A-S-H-I-O-N collection on the JOURNAL ❣️ #NewYork #LifeImitatesArt #BeBold #DACBECOLLECTIONS ❤️‍🔥 #collage by me, music: “I Want You” by Moloko.

GRADUATION 🐣 #DACBE: The second collection by #Nigo for #Kenzo marked a double graduation. The first was that Nigo is increasingly finding the levels and detail of denim (now all sourced from Japan) and workwear production here much more aligned with his expectations as a connoisseur, thanks to evolution within Kenzo. Secondly, a graduation is what this show was staged to remind us of. Nigo said he’d used the concept of a passing out ceremony – inspired by a 1980s show by Kenzo Takada based on a sports day – in order to present an otherwise diverse group of dressed characters under the same banner: this was Kenzo’s class of ’23. More on the JOURNAL 🦆 #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #VintageStyle #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐛 #collage by me.

LE PAPIER 🤍 #DACBE: What’s “Le Papier” like? Working with a brute hand and humble-yet-lovely materials, #Jacquemus was repositioning his brand and his look away from the Pop vibes of recent years and towards something more finessed. “I started working on the collection with the obsession to restart from nothing, like a white page,” he said. The first two things he filled his page with were ideas of comfort and couture; “every couture,” he elaborated, talking about fusing the security of a blanket or pillow with the easy drama of a pleated ball skirt or cocoon jacket. His wedding, set to take place in the South in two months, also influenced the scene: the show began with two models hugging and dancing. Shearling coats, puffer vests, flirty dresses, fluffy accessories and cargo pants are the #AW22 essentials, and here he had loosened up the shapes for a more serene spirit, adding his new Humara sneaker in collaboration with #Nike. More on the JOURNAL 🗒 #MicaArganaraz #WhiteDress #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🖋 #collage by me.

STATE OF SOUL ❤️‍🔥 #DACBE: “It’s about being present. Putting down your phone. Being with your friends and people you love. Seeing the sun go down and feeling the wind and having a party. Not just a 10-minute show. With all these people coming, I just wanted to give them a good time and to feel like a community – and honestly I think that was really here. So this is what #StateOfSoul means.” This is how #MarineSerre explained #SS23 collection’s title and concept, presented to nearly a thousand guests who scored public tickets for the show. More on the JOURNAL 🌜 #LourdesLeon #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌞 #collage by me.

WEAPON-WEAR 🔥 #DACBE: “Before, I would cut myself off from expressing in certain ways because I thought I shouldn’t do that,” #MowalolaOgunlesi said before her Paris debut. But the designer learned that “whatever feeds me, I should just do it.” What was feeding #Mowalola this season was thievery and evolving her aesthetic beyond the trenches, tees, and accessories she is known for. She titled her collection “Burglarwear,” inspired by all types of criminals, from kidnappers to stockbrokers to the priesthood. More on the JOURNAL 💥 #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #Paris #ArnoldBöcklin #DACBECOLLECTIONS ☄️ #collage by me.

GROW 🌱 #DACBE: It’s safe to say that #JonathanAnderson’s #SS23 menswear collection for #Loewe was the most mind-blowing moment of the season. Fashion is on the brink of entering the Metaverse, and arguably our human consciousness is already fused with our digital devices: Jonathan Anderson marked the moment with an intriguing exploration around the subjects of perception, nature and progress. “A fusion of the organic and the fabricated,” he called it. More on the JOURNAL 🍃 #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #MotherNature #HiTech #PaulaUlarguiEscalona #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌿 #collage by me, music: “Germination” by Ryuichi Sakamoto.

GERMINATION 🌱 #DACBE: It’s safe to say that #JonathanAnderson’s #SS23 menswear collection for #Loewe was the most mind-blowing moment of the season. Fashion is on the brink of entering the Metaverse, and arguably our human consciousness is already fused with our digital devices: Jonathan Anderson marked the moment with an intriguing exploration around the subjects of perception, nature and progress. “A fusion of the organic and the fabricated,” he called it. More on the JOURNAL 🍃 #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #MotherNature #HiTech #PaulaUlarguiEscalona #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌿 #collage by me, music: “Germination” by Ryuichi Sakamoto.

FULL BLOOM 🌷 #DACBE: At #Dior, #KimJones does what he does best: combining contemporary elegance with art references, creating menswear that’s profound and desirable. #SS23 is about two houses, joined by a garden in full bloom: Christian Dior’s Granville in Normandy and Charleston in Sussex, where 20th century bohemian #BloomsburyGroup created and thrived. Owned by the artists #VanessaBell and #DuncanGrant, who pursued their free-love gender non-conforming lifestyle with guests in the isolated countryside away from London, it’s a place that became Jones’ favourite point of reference in the last years. More on the JOURNAL 🌾 #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #Paris #CharlestonFarmhouse #Menswear #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌸 #collage by me.

PARIS 🥐 #DACBE: For #SS23, #Ami went for the timeless, effortless and somewhat cliché, but always très cool theme: the Parisian chic. For the fashion show, the guests were at the top of #Paris, in the grounds of La basilique du Sacré-Cœur with the city laid out below, gleaming in the sunny dusk. Catherine Deneuve and Carla Bruni were in the audience alongside Naomi Campbell and Jonathan Bailey. Extraordinarily, #AudreyTautou – Sacré-Cœur’s Amelie herself – was lured out of her long public retreat to open the show. More on the JOURNAL 👄 #ParisianChic #AlexandreMattiussi #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🥖 #collage by me.

VIBE SHIFT 🍇 #DACBE: For #DriesVanNoten, the #SS23 menswear collection wasn’t just a bold return to the Parisian runway, but also an aesthetics shift. “The Zazous in Paris in the 1940s, and Buffalo in London in the 1980s. Both were in periods which were a bit similar. Hard times. So we wanted to make our own version of that.” In these, our disturbingly Right-swinging times, you could catch the significance of the timing behind Van Noten’s wanting to work a queer anti-authoritarian reference. More on the JOURNAL 🍷 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #Menswear #Dandy #Burgundy #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🥀 #collage by me.

FIRE 🌋 #DACBE: The #RickOwens #SS23 show gave armageddon vibes. Or at least that is what the massive fire orbs, lifted by crane high above the guests, and then dropped to a sizzling impact in the Palais de Tokyo fountain were there to represent. Ruminating during the line-out pre-show, Owens said: “the fireballs are flaming suns, arcing across the sky, and crashing to the ground. But I did it on repeat because it happens over and over.” He was referring to human fear of our extinction – whether through war, pestilence, or other generationally specific worst case scenario. “’I’m always trying to reassure myself that whatever is happening in the world right now – whatever conflict or crisis or discomfort – it’s happened before. And somehow goodness has always triumphed over evil, because otherwise we wouldn’t be here now.” Those words bring glimpse of hope especially in 2022, with war happening in Ukraine and Supreme Court’s outrageous overturning of Roe v. Wade. More on the JOURNAL ☄️ #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #PFW #WorldOnFire #Menswear #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🔥 #collage by me.

Junge Wilde is alive and breathing… obsessed with #ElviraBach’s vibrance, now showing at @galeriedeschler. ❤️‍🔥 Also discovered two amazing contemporary artists @stephanpopella and @madeleinerogerlacan 🎯 Sometimes #Berlin really feels like the one in Suspiria (Luca’s version) and I love it 🩰

Berlin on a Saturday 🌹 Blooming flowers, all the #DriesVanNoten goodness at #AndreasMurkudis, summer is here… 💌 #Berlin

LAYERED ODDITY 💖 #DACBE: “It’s a bit like Gothic cathedrals, a Flemish vibe… like Bruges”, #GlennMartens described his #SS23 collection for #YProject. The multi-layered oddity of the Belgian town became the key reference for the designer and his collection filled with distorted glamour. More on the JOURNAL 🌹 #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪗 #collage by me.

HARMONIOUS SUBLIMITY 🧡 #DACBE: #HedMayner‘s menswear collections are Paris Fashion Weeks’ moments of harmonious sublimity. In his notes, Mayner made it clear that he doesn’t do “overwrought statements of seasonal quirk.” Rather, season after season he revisits scaled-up proportions, honing them as a sculptor might. “I started by trying to build a silhouette that has a strong contact between front and back, and just being this two-dimensional look with a contrast,” the designer offered backstage of his #SS23 line-up. More on the JOURNAL ⏳ #PFW #Paris #ParisFashionWeek #Menswear #ManFashion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🧺 #collage by me.

TAKE IT SLOW 🎼 #DACBE: The #Lemaire #SS23 presentation was a beautiful, harmonious scene. “It’s always nice to see people when they are in between things,” #ChristopheLemaire said. “And people are very much themselves,” #SarahLinhTran added. As a result, this was a refreshingly straightforward collection that put the clothes on a pedestal of reality. More on the JOURNAL 🎺 #Paris #PFW #ParisFashionWeek #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🪕 #collage by me.

WHAT’S MODERN? 🧤 #DACBE: #JonathanAnderson is nailing it again, being in his cheeky, surreal element. For men’s #JWAnderson #SS23, the said he’d been moved by “the shock of theater” to shape a collection that tested our perceptions of clothing and modernity. The BMX handlebars, shattered skate decks and CDs were there to remind us of the ephemerality of modernity, and its inevitable descent into anachronism. The wearable assemblages were a witty commentary regarding overconsumption. “Fashion is a very modern device,” he said. “But it is not a modern act.” More on the JOURNAL 👖 #Milan #MilanFashionWeek #MFW #Denim #Resort2023 #DACBECOLLECTIONS 👔 #collage by me.

END OF AN ERA 🌺 #DACBE: It’s end of an era at #Etro: with a new creative director appointed, the Italian brand is departing from its family roots. Marco De Vincenzo is taking the lead, and will show his first collection in September. #VeronicaEtro and #KeanEtro waved a good-bye with their last collections: women’s #Resort2023 and men’s #SS23. They represent what the siblings did best at the brand: rhapsodic, poetic and joyous fashion. More on the JOURNAL 🌞 #Milan #MFW #MilanFashionWeek #SummerTime #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🌼 #collage by me.

CHOICE 🧥 #DACBE: Whenever #Prada delivers a collection focused solely on all-time classics, it’s clear that some sort of recession is coming. If shopping for new clothes, no fashion-statement impulses – only rational choices. Investment pieces that will become a wardrobe staple, or rather “choices”: that’s exactly what #MiucciaPrada and #RafSimons‘ #SS23 menswear collection is about. More on the JOURNAL ☕️ #Milan #MilanFashionWeek #MFW #WillemDafoe #TrenchCoat #Menswear #ManFasion #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🫖 #collage by me, music: “Bela Lugosi’s Dead” by Bauhaus.

SURFBOARD 🏄🏼‍♂️ #DACBE: For #SS23, #DsQuared2 went surf-boy-mode. Dean and Dan Caten’s layering extravaganza inspired by surf culture and 1970s Jamaica is just what a stinking-hot summer wardrobe needs and wants. The Catens worked with the Bob Marley Foundation, which granted them permission to reproduce a portrait of the reggae genius on T-shirts, beach totes, and bags. “We liked the vibe of that time, and the freedom and rebellion he represented,” they said backstage. “Peace and love, and the joy of music.” More on the JOURNAL 🌺 #MilanFashion #Milan #MFW #SurfBoard #SurfBoy #SurfLife #VanessaReid #DACBECOLLECTIONS 🐚 #collage by me.

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