Beautiful Silence. Azzedine Alaïa Resort 2020

The maison of Azzedine Alaïa doesn’t shock – which, surprisingly, is a good thing. Since Alaïa passed away, the brand decided not to desperately seek an outside designer who would turn the house upside down. Instead, the label is lead by the studio, which knows the Alaïa craft like no other. For resort 2020, which got released yesterday, we see precise, not-over-the-top, rather minimal garments that look simple in cut, but are the peak of tailoring mastership in fact. I mean, where else will you find a military-inspired jacket which looks this chic? The dresses, forever flattering to the body, are Alaïa classics that never get boring. Also, I really love the high-rise trousers styled with boyish, black shoes. The look-book, shot by Karim Sadli in Alaïa’s 3 Rooms apartments in Le Marais district (Paris’ best kept secret for the fashion insiders when fashion weeks come) is more than pleasing.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Like a Freshly Squeezed Juice. Rosie Assoulin Resort 2020

There’s no wonder why Rosie Assoulin‘s showroom in Paris was all over the Instagram for the last few days: her resort 2020 collection is this good. The New York-based brand’s look-book, photographed at a lovely-looking market with veggie and fruit stalls, presents some of the most gorgeous dresses out there this season. From the signature watercolour print day-dresses to delightful evening alternatives (the green dress with an XXL foulard needs a proper entrance), there’s a good variety of silhouettes and volumes. Rosie goes for loosely fitted tailoring as well, which brings this ‘formal, but comfortable wherever you are’ feeling. The colour palette? It’s like a freshly squeezed fuit cocktail in the middle of summer, bold, refreshing and juicy. Note this season’ accessories: the brand’s jug bags are coming in new shapes, and I’m especially in love with the straw baby covered in those abstract, multi-coloured, big dots. There’s joy all over this collection.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Tactile. Gabriela Hearst Resort 2020

Gabriela Hearst‘s resort 2020 shows the essence of her brand: fabrics and tailoring. The pre-collection features aloe linen (that moisturizes the skin), a hand-knit as weightless as a feather, macramé detailing spliced between the pleats of minimal dresses and skirts, finest cashmere used in coats… all of this is really  an exercise in luxurious tactility. Meanwhile the tailoring surprised with an interesting development: the jackets were gathered and tied at the waist, not with belts but via construction. So, a sort of invisible belt. The ones with artisan fringes looked sublime as well.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.