L’Amour. Jacquemus SS21

After weeks of digital presentations, Jacquemus‘ spring-summer 2021 IRL show was a truly heart-warming sight. An audience of 100 guests – mainly French press, house friends and family of Simon Porte Jacquemus – were ferried to a gently rolling wheat field near Us in the French Vexin Regional National Park, about an hour outside Paris. After hundreds of Instagram posts, you surely know what the venue looked like. It was a visual dream, a bit like a more sober sister of last year’s lavender field fantasy. Before the lockdown hit France, the designer had been in touch with the dancer Alexander Ekman. Needless to say, everything changed at that point, but the reference remained. During a pre-show interview, Jacquemus said he wanted his collection to talk of love and celebration, “like a simple country wedding or a harvest festival.” Ultimately, he named the collection “L’Amour,” a declaration of love for his team and updated it with Provençal references such as hand-made ceramics, grandmother’s tablecloth and berry picking (actual strawberries were inside Aaron Altaras’ basket-bag). The collection itself was quintessentially Jacquemus: a variety of dresses that channel the Southern French girl, made in all sizes; for boys, Picasso-meet-Miro motifs and cut-out hearts on over-sized tailoring. A toned, sun-washed  palette of clay and ecru looked summer-perfect, although I must admit I love Jacquemus most when he’s induldging in bolder colours. As usual, accessories are the sure best-sellers: fun earrings (a bar of Marseille soap!), leather accessories like a harness for a single plate, or the new Chiquito Noeud, a variation on the house bestseller. Last year, Simon dialed down to two shows per year, and this decision was definitely a good one. It’s not only a sustainable step, but it also lets the designer execute his vision to the fullest. And a live show is a live show, after all. “For me, the runway can’t be a video. It’s at the heart of what we do; it’s not superficial. It’s important to all of us to continue, just like a restaurant that reopens. It’s like a movie of a summer day. It’s our life.” That’s an inspiring dose of optimism for the uncertain times.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The Look – Jacquemus SS20

Jacquemus‘ spring-summer 2020 collection was a dream. Remember that vibrant pink runway going through field of purple lavender, under the gorgeously bright blue Provençal sky? Of course you do. “I wanted something sophisticated but at the same time as light as a cocktail in summer,Simon Porte Jacquemus said back then. The above look – a pistacchio-green blazer, candy-pink ribbed top, white linen culottes and straw hat – says it all: spring is here. Yes, it’s a pity we can’t fully enjoy it under current circumstances. Still, open the window wide open, see the flowers bloom, hear the birds singing! Trying to stay positive.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

L’Année 97. Jacquemus AW20

Last season‘s Provençal dream is hard to beat. So, in a way, Simon Porte Jacquemus didn’t intend to make his autumn-winter 2020 even more extraordinary and Instagrammable. Not meaning it was modest or small – showing at La Defense stadium with Laetitia Casta, the Hadids and a pack of supermodels isn’t really a quiet gesture. But design-wise, Jacquemus returned to the core of his style: it’s sleeker, cleaner, less quirky, toned (except for the brief splash of bold pink). And incredibly sexy (without being vulgar): the body-conscious fit, cropped cardigans, wrapped micro-skirts, thigh-high boots are just some of the “hot” piece. Guys followed girls in pants, which appeared to have their flies open (a trompe l’oeil). There were oversized blazers and roomy coats for both women and men, creating a sense of concealed sensuality. While we all got used to Jacquemus’ sun-drenched, French flavor, it’s good to see designers go out of their (already succesful) comfort zones. The backstory behind the collection was as personal and profound as it could be: “I was seven when I made a skirt out of a curtain for my mother, and she brought me to school wearing it.” The linen pencil skirt, which opened the show on Casta, was a personal memento of that, and the reason the fabric was an anchor for the collection. But business-wise, Porte Jacquemus realized that he could use his buying power to change things with his fabric manufacturer. “We’ve been working with them for 10 years, but they didn’t have a sustainable fabric that we wanted. Now, they do – because of the size of the order I can make. But you know,” he said with a smile, “what I want to say is, it isn’t just for ecology, it’s also people—their rhythm of work also has to have sense. I don’t say I’m a green brand or anything like that; it’s not marketing. But I think we have to think more like my grandparents did: like, we have tomatoes in the garden, so we eat tomatoes.” Wise words for the industry to consider.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

The 2010s: The Tale of Jacquemus

Slajd1-kopia 8

Believe it or not – I can’t! – but we’re heading towards a new millenium. So, how do you choose the most important collections, designers and labels of the decade? The ones that made an actual impact in the 2010s? Well, it’s not an easy task. It all began in September 2009 with New York’s spring-summer 2010 shows and ended when the autumn-winter 2019 haute couture shows wrapped in Paris. Few thousands of shows, by the way. There will be 19 posts (that’s really the only possible minimum!) reminding about the best – and if not the best, then strongly influencing – moments in fashion.

France, sun, love. Jacquemus.

The tale of Jacquemus is one of the most inspiring and joyful stories of 2010’s fashion. A boy from the South of France made the entire industry lose its mind for XXL straw hats, hilariously small bags, cheerful polka-dots and dresses that mentally transport you to the beach in any season. Simon Porte Jacquemus started from scratch, staging his first fashion show in a public swimming pool in Paris. With every season, his style got refined and the collections expanded at an organic pace. From the spectacular La Santons de Provence show, which was all about the designer’s love for his sun-drenched home, to the spring-summer 2020 line-up staged in the middle of a Provençal field, every collection Jacquemus delivers keeps on getting better. From all the emerging labels that took off in the 2010s, Jacquemus is the biggest star!

Slajd1-kopia 9Slajd2-kopia 9Slajd3Slajd6Slajd4Slajd5

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Dream. Jacquemus SS20

Although I’ve been sick for a couple of days, and a collection that happened a week ago in today’s fashion industry’s pace seems like a year ago (especially during the endless fashion week of menswear, resort, ready-to-wear and couture), I’m still sure of one thing: Jacquemus spring-summer 2020 collection was a DREAM. By now you surely have seen hundreds of images of a vibrant pink runway going through field of purple lavender, under the gorgeously bright blue Provençal sky. Simon Porte Jacquemus took the fashion crowd to his hometown region and celebrated his brand’s 10th anniversary. The brand is completely independent, super desirable and Jacquemus, the person himself, is the same French guy with a joyful spirit. While anniversary collections tend to be a remix of a brand’s biggest hits, Jacquemus presented lots of hot newness that keeps on developing the brand’s language. “I wanted something sophisticated but at the same time as light as a cocktail in summer,” he said backstage. The moment when Mica Arganaraz opened the show in a white, over-sized blazer, it was clear that tailoring is on the designer’s mind. He nailed it for both, women and men. Parachute dresses in olive-green and bold fuchsia were my personal highlights, just like the shirts with Cezanne-esque landscapes and culottes in utilitarian styles. Jacquemus is a major accessories business, and this season he didn’t dissapoint. From XXL bazaar bags and signature art-heel shoes to old-school net grocery bags and basket handbags (they seem to stay with us), you want it all. Happy Birthday to Jacquemus, the brand. Big, big congrats to Jacquemus, the person!

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Village Life. Jacquemus AW19

Simone Porte Jacquemus’ sun-drenched Frenchness is a phenomenal success on international scale – think big straw hats, over-sized baskets and draped shirtdresses ready for a Côte d’Azur adventures. Still, the designer doesn’t rest on laurels, and smartly took a slightly different direction this season. Not that he parted ways with his French girl – I doubt this will ever happen, since she’s the core of his brand. But he finally took her out of the beach. In a French village set-up, with faux fruit stores and all, Jacquemus sent a line-up of boldly colored looks that are actually ready for (not too) cold weathers. Coats in fuchsia, yellow and abstract checks; laid-back tailoring and shirting in rustic prints; knitted dresses. The Jacquemus girl wears heels, but isn’t afraid of knee-length rubber boots. Bags are the brand’s growing business, so there’s no wonder why we’ve got so many new additions. The double-bum-bag worn on the waist; the meme-worthy, super tiny handbag that might fit a few coins, a black card, a cigarette and maybe, who knows, a condom (sorry, that was my main thought when I saw them!); an enormously big shoulder bag that will definitely fit everything, even a hundred of the mini bags I mentioned two lines above. Jacquemus doesn’t take big risks, true, but he continues to amuse. Consistence with a spark of surprise is the key.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s – Country. Jacquemus AW19

Simon Porte Jacquemus‘ autumn-winter 2019 collection for men signalled his (temporary) departure from the always sunny, always beach-y wonderland that got him slightly trapped for the last few seasons. But, it’s Jacquemus – France will forever be his endless inspiration. This time, he went to the French countryside, and came back to Paris with a warm, ready-to-get-dirty offering. The designer presented his collection around a table full of cheese, grapes and bread, and posted a look-book photographed far, far from the big city – the hills of Montpellier. The collection’s leading inspiration? “Traditional French workwear,” he said, “bakery guys, farm workers. They are real, real clothes, cotton, wool.” We’ve got thick, durable collared outerwear and matching pants in brown; printed shirts that seemed to be inspired with Cezanne’s rural still-lives; leather pants that were a fashion version of an apron you wear to a barn; heavy trekking boots. But there was also the softer part of the collection, focusing on slightly over-sized fitted suits – something quite new to Jacquemus’ young menswear line. The designer’s love letter to the beautiful, French farm life could not miss foulards, tied loosely around the models’ necks. Now, anyone planning a detoxifying, rural escape anytime soon?

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Men’s / Le Gadjo. Jacquemus SS19

jacquemus

Couldn’t ask for a better ‘summer fashion’ moment. For his highly anticipated menswear debut, Simon Porte Jacquemus took us to one of his most beloved places, Marseille (specifically Calanque de Sormiou, a spectacular beach which is a stone throw from the  French city). The runway was staged on the beach, with blankets and real-life holiday-goers as a backdrop. Jacquemus called the collection Gadjo, which is a Gypsy expression meaning ‘a man that belongs to no community’. But also, it’s a way to say ‘boy’ in the South of France. Shortly, it’s a word that Jacquemus feels connected to strongly, noting his origins and the care-free attitude to life.

So, what’s a Jacquemus man like? Like Simon himself. Just take a look at his Instagram, and you will quickly capture his sense of style: bold cotton shirts (worn with, or without, a slightly cartoonish tie), khaki bermudas, loosely fit blazers, bucket hats. And, if the weather is fine, great love for showing off his hairy torso. The clothes models wore (all street-casted, as far as I know) were exactly what Jacquemus loves wearing on the regular basis. I think I love it too – just look at all the energetic colours, patchworked knits and… hot denim! Jacquemus’ menswear isn’t complicated, but is well suited for daily life (in summer, specifically). Noting that Simon’s women’s line is relatively affordable, I think that my next season shopping cart is about to burst at the seams with all these goodies.

Slajd1Slajd2Slajd3Slajd4Slajd5

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Le Souk. Jacquemus AW18

collage 1

While ooking at the latest Jacquemus collection, I want summer to be back so, so badly (even though it’s an autumn-winter collection). Also, I’ve got to visit Morocco, like right now. That’s the effect of Le Souk, Simon Porte‘s newest story.  “I got lost in the souks with just one thing on my mind: I want to make it my next summer collection. I came back to Paris and made my winter of it; my winter collection. Not wasting any more time, my warm winter.” The result? Well, doubtfully you will find any winter help in these clothes, that’s certain. But these caftan-dresses, clingy knits, hats (a Jacquemus best-selling signature) and cute skirts make you daydream. Jacquemus is one of Paris fashion week’s biggest excitements, and the designer brought us another reason to love him: he launches menswear. I can’t wait to see how he injects his joyful Frenchness into men’s clothes. See you in June.

Slajd1Slajd2Slajd3Slajd6Slajd4Slajd7Slajd5Slajd8Slajd9

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.