Men’s – Solar Youth. Raf Simons AW20

January 18, 2020 | Design & Culture by Ed

Raf Simons‘ autumn-winter 2020 collection had a transporting, emotional quality, because the character he envisioned appeared to no longer inhabit our world yet they dressed as though they were trying to wear something of the Earth’s past. Departing at Blade Runner and making other narrative stops along the way, this was Simons venturing beyond his obsession with youth. Emerging from a glowing yellow tunnel into a minimalist yellow venue, some models had their hands muffs, a rather anachronistic accessory (be sure that it’s coming back to us next winter!). Positioned front and center, they communicated a crucial piece of information about these people, the “Solar Youth”. If you think this sounds positive, the show notes meant quite the opposite: they don’t want you to know who you are. One theory is that they left the earth as children from our past and awoke as an elite community of our future. This might explain why their attire was at turns elegant, nostalgic, and noir-sci-fi. Silvery high-neck base layers were visible under the impeccable, imposing military-style coats. Sweaters and scarves were juxtaposed with tubular knits that encased the arms. White, red, pistacchio boots (from Simons’ new shoe line, (RUNNER)) a remniscent of a space-suit. Several blazers and collegiate jackets were shielded under clear filmy plastic, creating a refined, corset-like silhouette. The outer-space chic is here.

Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

Interstellar. Aalto AW17

February 28, 2017 | Design & Culture by Ed

Paris-based designers always had a thing for the outer space – for instance, take Paco Rabanne’s and Andre Courrèges’ cosmic fashion from the 60s and 70s. Those designers dreamt of fashion shows being on held on the moon; they wanted their women to walk down the streets in chain-mail dresses or white, patent-leather mini-skirts. A new wave of designers is moving through the French capital, so do different motifs and reference become refreshed. Tuomas Merikoski of Aalto took his models to a space odyssey, dressing them in distorted duvet jackets and nebula-printed dresses. Some of the looks were truly innovative, like the intriguingly draped dress-shirt hybrids, while others well reflect contemporary style of many designers (suits with random patches and variety of turtleneck combinations might be seen on nearly every single runway this season). Although Aalto’s vision of the ‘future’ wardrobe isn’t as far-fetched as Paco’s, it definitely fits today’s fashion norms.

HC: Out of This World

March 27, 2014July 11, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

Feeling a bit tired with this exhausting week, my mood is all about sci-fi: you know, E.T. and aliens… And, specifically, if talking about fashion, then that Chanel SS14 Haute Couture outfit is on my mind. It is so out of this world! With the Hussein Chalayan bubble dress, NASA’s man on moon and that crazy building in the backround, I feel like going on the moon…

✈ Kinetic Travel at Chanel ✈

July 3, 2013May 13, 2014 | Design & Culture by Ed

A destroyed theatre, with smashed windows and peeling walls, was filled with scruffy, pre-war chairs where the guest would seat. Something is going to happen. Then something amazing happens, that even Rihanna and Natalia Vodianova gasp with excitement. From under the dark curtain thats hanging above the scene, a 3-D installation of metallic skyscrapers and blue sky are coming out. And it’s of course all in Grand Palais!
“It’s a new world” Karl Lagerfeld says, thinking of Singapore, where his Chanel resort was presented. The damaged theatre, as Karl said suggested Coco Chanel coming back after war, looking in Paris for something beautiful and quiet- rebuilding the fashion house. It is like a closed chapter of Chanel that Karl wanted to show. Now a new one, modern and elusive chapter is opened for the Parisian house. But the show was very dynamic, models ran the catwalk like on the olympics. Yes it sounds all very cosmic, but the clothes weren’t at all crazy. Tweed suites in new silver colours made from different weaving methods; dresses that were called kinetic by the designer, had a eerie silver polish.
There is also a pretty dangerous trend upcoming in jewellery- putting small diamond rings on all fingers in the hands, but- not in the typical place for wearing rings, but nearly on the nails! This bling looks really nice and modernistic, but feels a bit uncomfortable. Never wear it to a fish restaurant wee you may eat some crabs or shrimps; don’t wash your hands in it because you don’t really want to take out your diamonds from the sink. That’s why this trend in jewellery is super unpractical but super fashionable!
New models were tapped to the show- mostly Asian newcomers and rest was the it girls- Ashleigh Good, Jamie Bochert, Lindsey Wixson and Joan Smalls. There seems that a strong change is coming up to Chanel from the Eastern part of the world- time will show.