Raf Simons‘ autumn-winter 2020 collection had a transporting, emotional quality, because the character he envisioned appeared to no longer inhabit our world yet they dressed as though they were trying to wear something of the Earth’s past. Departing at Blade Runner and making other narrative stops along the way, this was Simons venturing beyond his obsession with youth. Emerging from a glowing yellow tunnel into a minimalist yellow venue, some models had their hands muffs, a rather anachronistic accessory (be sure that it’s coming back to us next winter!). Positioned front and center, they communicated a crucial piece of information about these people, the “Solar Youth”. If you think this sounds positive, the show notes meant quite the opposite: they don’t want you to know who you are. One theory is that they left the earth as children from our past and awoke as an elite community of our future. This might explain why their attire was at turns elegant, nostalgic, and noir-sci-fi. Silvery high-neck base layers were visible under the impeccable, imposing military-style coats. Sweaters and scarves were juxtaposed with tubular knits that encased the arms. White, red, pistacchio boots (from Simons’ new shoe line, (RUNNER)) a remniscent of a space-suit. Several blazers and collegiate jackets were shielded under clear filmy plastic, creating a refined, corset-like silhouette. The outer-space chic is here.
Collage by Edward Kanarecki.