Sport De Luxe. Koché SS18

L’Église Saint-Merry, one of the most liberally oriented churches in Paris, was the show venue for Koché‘s spring-summer 2018 collection. But that’s not the first time when the brand chooses an extraordinary venue for their show – once it was an old passage, another time a huge city mall. Mostly places that don’t attract these fashionable Parisians, but certainly do breath with the ‘real’ Parisian air. But Koché isn’t just about unusual venues. Christelle Kocher‘s label rotates around the idea of twisting streetwear with couture sensibility – and her offer keeps on growing organically, from season to season. What’s new this time around from that emerging, talented designer? The most genuine idea of reusing football shirts and jerseys for a high fashion statement I’ve seen so far. Emirate Airlines logo and Chantilly lace were all there, in a spliced-together mid-length dress. Comparing to her last seasons, Kocher looks forward to more feminine silhouettes, adding more elegant gowns in geometrical silhouettes (the black one was especially very Cristobal Balenciaga) to her brand. Going new directions and experimenting is always a fine idea – but I think keeping true to Koché’s primary aesthetic sense is a good decision to take for the designer, as she progresses.

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Collage by Edward Kanarecki.

 

Men’s – Kaliningrad. Gosha Rubchinskiy AW17

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During men’s fashion month, Florence’ Pitti Uomo and Milan are the sure go-to destinations after London. However, the new-gen designers coming from the former Soviet Union are here to break fashion’s conventions. Gosha Rubchinskiy, skater-loving photographer and designer from the bloc, used to present his collections in Paris; for spring-summer 2017 he took us to Italy; and for autumn-winter 2017, he invited a couple of key editors and buyers to Kaliningrad. If someone’s unsure about the geographical position of the show’s location, that’s the capital of Russian province divided by Lithuania and Poland.

While Soccer World Cup 2018 is taking place here, Rubchinskiy had a perfect reason to take the industry to this rather off-fashion’s-radar place. Now, streetwear fanatics, prepare for jaw-dropping news: Gosha presented his Adidas Football collaboration, which is purely symbolic in regards of the country’s Cold War-era black market history, and Russian’s football team gear. The collaboration consists of pieces ranging from football shirts to hoodies and accessories, all baring the world ‘football’ in Cyrillic script. The clothes were styled in a classical, Gosha way – skate-fit sportswear, boy-from-the-hood tracksuits and ironically masculine suits. Synthetic-white sneakers and a blue shirt – Russian guy look from the 90s, just like the geometric, post-modern prints on the slouchy knits. So, are you in the team?

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Serenity. Public School SS16

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At the beginning of Public School‘s career, I did not understand their phenomena. But throughout time and their development, I see what is the point behind it – Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne define casual elegance in a new way. And their SS16 collection is the best example of that – serene, long dresses worn with sporty tank-tops; ethereal, embroidered vests being contrasted by simple sweatpants New Yorkers love so much. Public School plays contrasts as no other. Layers are the key of their collections while the signature lazy Public School look is much more sophisticated than you might suspect. It needs years of practice to wear a pajama shirt with such grace!

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#TBT: Helmut Lang SS04

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Although nobody knows what’s happening with Helmut Lang at the moment, still, the label’s archives are rich in remarkable bits. The moment when Elise Crombez wore that sporty tank-top, polished skirt and nude stilettos in 2004, it stroke all New Yorkers and Lang fans. Like an intense ray of light. Or sudden arrival of summer. Happy Throwback Thursday!

Sportizer. Rag & Bone AW15

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ENERGY. COLOUR. SPORT. That’s how the latest Rag & Bone collection can be defined in three words. I am in love with the way the Rag & Bone duo mixed feminine lace and satin, with sporty rubber, jackets and tank-tops! Classic menswear tailoring, workwear-inspired looks, innovative fabrications; streetwise way of putting everything together. The layers seem to be mastered to perfection. And that’s a new field for Rag & Bone. The influence of ’90s hip-hop was most visible in the collection’s pops of vivid color, inspired, Wainwright explained, by a dive into the TLC and Salt-N-Pepa videos of his youth. “It’s funny how everything that looked kind of cheesy comes back around and seems awesome,” he noted, ahead of the show. Bravo, Rag & Bone, for showing off one of the most bold collections up to date!

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