During men’s fashion month, Florence’ Pitti Uomo and Milan are the sure go-to destinations after London. However, the new-gen designers coming from the former Soviet Union are here to break fashion’s conventions. Gosha Rubchinskiy, skater-loving photographer and designer from the bloc, used to present his collections in Paris; for spring-summer 2017 he took us to Italy; and for autumn-winter 2017, he invited a couple of key editors and buyers to Kaliningrad. If someone’s unsure about the geographical position of the show’s location, that’s the capital of Russian province divided by Lithuania and Poland.
While Soccer World Cup 2018 is taking place here, Rubchinskiy had a perfect reason to take the industry to this rather off-fashion’s-radar place. Now, streetwear fanatics, prepare for jaw-dropping news: Gosha presented his Adidas Football collaboration, which is purely symbolic in regards of the country’s Cold War-era black market history, and Russian’s football team gear. The collaboration consists of pieces ranging from football shirts to hoodies and accessories, all baring the world ‘football’ in Cyrillic script. The clothes were styled in a classical, Gosha way – skate-fit sportswear, boy-from-the-hood tracksuits and ironically masculine suits. Synthetic-white sneakers and a blue shirt – Russian guy look from the 90s, just like the geometric, post-modern prints on the slouchy knits. So, are you in the team?
At the beginning of Public School‘s career, I did not understand their phenomena. But throughout time and their development, I see what is the point behind it – Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne define casual elegance in a new way. And their SS16 collection is the best example of that – serene, long dresses worn with sporty tank-tops; ethereal, embroidered vests being contrasted by simple sweatpants New Yorkers love so much. Public School plays contrasts as no other. Layers are the key of their collections while the signature lazy Public School look is much more sophisticated than you might suspect. It needs years of practice to wear a pajama shirt with such grace!
Although nobody knows what’s happening with Helmut Lang at the moment, still, the label’s archives are rich in remarkable bits. The moment when Elise Crombez wore that sporty tank-top, polished skirt and nude stilettos in 2004, it stroke all New Yorkers and Lang fans. Like an intense ray of light. Or sudden arrival of summer. Happy Throwback Thursday!
ENERGY. COLOUR. SPORT. That’s how the latest Rag & Bone collection can be defined in three words. I am in love with the way the Rag & Bone duo mixed feminine lace and satin, with sporty rubber, jackets and tank-tops! Classic menswear tailoring, workwear-inspired looks, innovative fabrications; streetwise way of putting everything together. The layers seem to be mastered to perfection. And that’s a new field for Rag & Bone. The influence of ’90s hip-hop was most visible in the collection’s pops of vivid color, inspired, Wainwright explained, by a dive into the TLC and Salt-N-Pepa videos of his youth. “It’s funny how everything that looked kind of cheesy comes back around and seems awesome,” he noted, ahead of the show. Bravo, Rag & Bone, for showing off one of the most bold collections up to date!