Jeanne Damas is the synonym of today’s Parisian woman. She reflects contemporary French chic and stays far from a book-writing cliché. No, she’s not a Frenchie wannabe with a baguette, a là the ones you see all over your Instagram explore page. In other words, when I hear ‘Jeanne’, I simultaneously think ‘Jane’, ‘Françoise’, ‘Isabelle’. If you know what I mean…
Now, after a brief moment of admiration for Jean, here’s the thing. Rouje is her womenswear label and it’s a love letter to flirty dresses, romantic floral shirts and high-waisted denim. Spring-summer 2017 is Jeanne’s second season and it has just dropped on her on-lineon-line page, accompanied by dreamy, Mediterrean-hot look-book (starring the designer and her friends). Red-lips, a fruit market near the shore and vintage sunglasses: oui, it’s perfect.
Ania Kuczyńska‘s latest capsule collection entitled Black Celebration 1986 is an intimate exploration of memories and associations, likely kept in deep, black-and-white tones. This Polish designer, who’s the founder of Warsaw’s beloved eponymous label, continues to combine and fuse inspirations in the least expected ways. The name of the collection might ring a bell – of course, we’re speaking of Depeche Mode’s most (as for me) melancholic album, which might be a perfect backdrop for these elusive, analog snaps by Stanislaw Boniecki. But Ania goes further, nodding to new wave tendencies in Polish film and music (from Roman Polanski’s intriguing dramas to Krzysztof Komeda’s cinematic tunes). New wave era had a magnetising, truly absorbing aura – the same feelings surrounds Kuczyńska’s garments. Unisex turtlenecks à la the existentialists; below-the-knee pleated skirts; t-shirts with shoulder-exposing cuts. It’s not about pursuing the newness, but rather, focusing on essentials, perfecting them. Kuczyńska’s house codes evolve – and this collection is a beautiful addition to her creative language.
The meaning behind Céline’s spring-summer 2017 has been already conveyed in the soundtrack of the noisy city traffic and joyous children laugh. Loosely fit pastel top, indigo skirt and white sneakers – is there a better and more comfortable outfit for a day filled with errands, like picking your kids up from school? Or rushing to the office? The runway wasn’t a usual aisle, squeezed by editors and buyers. Models walked in random directions, sometimes in little groups, presenting a range of different personalities. A Céline woman isn’t only one type of women: Phoebe Philo proves that.
From masculine coats to intriguing dresses, nothing seems to look pointless here. Even though A LOT happens in this one specific collection. Her venture into sex-appeal is non-conformist and elusive, resulting in a dress with faux-corset, and a pair of sandals. Man-repelling? Depends on the guy. Speaking of the shoes, there were a lot of great heels and boots, worn two colours at a time. The colours were mixed up, ‘cuz “why should our shoes always match?” There isn’t one word to describe it all – it’s rather about understanding Phoebe’s “woman for women” world, which is far from trends, but always a step ahead from the others.
Who? Serhat Isik, Benjamin Alexander Huseby and their intriguing collaborators.
Where? Looking at the clothes, there’s only one guess – Berlin, of course.
What? According to the designers behind this off-beat label, “in German, GmbH means a company of financial limited liability, which is the German equivalent to ‘ltd.’ or ‘Inc.’ – the most common standard legal form of any German company. We didn’t really want to use our own names; as we don’t want the main focus to be on us. And it also reflects or design process. GmbH is so neutral it can mean anything and nothing at the same time.”
Why? GmbH origins from the German capital’s famous clubbing culture, but also, the diversity of this city. The clothes are not only modelled by the designers’ friends – Serhat and Benjamin are inspired by the way they dress, both for everyday and a night-out. What’s interesting, majority of the label’s one-of-a-kind products is made of deadstock materials. Over-sized jackets, PVC pants and technical fabric t-shirts are just a few of the essentials GmbH produces and sells.
No, you aren’t wrong – one of the models starring in GmbH’s new season look-book is Stefano Pilati.