Ready to Wear. A Détacher SS17

September 12, 2016September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

New York is the only city out of the big, four fashion capitals, which is a home to designers and creatives of Mona Kowalska‘s league. Brands like A Détacher aren’t based in London, Paris or Milan for a reason – their attitude just wouldn’t fit there. Kowalska’s eponymous label, which is sold in her flagship store and at few selected boutiques in the USA, is quintessence of New York style, even if this sounds like a total cliché. It’s far from pretentious and boring, but close to functional and personal. Most of all, A Détacher’s collections are created for women, who love fashion, and LIVE their lives. Those clothes, opposing any current trends, are literally “ready to wear” – and they become an organic part of a wardrobe. For spring-summer 2017, Mona delivered a collection filled with bold pieces waiting for their unique wearers. Take the knee-length, blush-pink hoodie – it’s not here because of Vetements, and the entire streetwear thing. A Détacher hoodie, with a lace skirt under, is above that. Densely layered knit looks continue to be the labels’ best-kept secret, and its a favourite styling trick among Kowalska’s fans. The season’s biggest highlight is the introduction to new denim pants. The silhouettes are loose-fitting, all in good, old blue wash. Love.

Collage by me (as usual), feauturing Kasia Korzeniecka‘s brilliant water painting print.

Lets be real. Eckhaus Latta SS17

September 12, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

“Just clothing, in a sense,” Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta said backstage after showing Eckhaus Latta’s spring-summer 2017. With an art school background, Eckhaus Latta fashion, or rather style, is well recognisable – it’s all raw, and kept in a über-cool, DIY kind of way. The clothes, designed by the Los Angeles-based duo, are nothing without the attitude of the person wearing them – a non-model, or a friend, or just a person walking down the street. Denim skirts, deconstructed t-shirts, extremely exaggerated stitchings on pants: Eckhaus Latta isn’t into fooling around with themes and, eww, trends. Although the label used to be much more radical when it made the first steps in the industry, the newest collection is a statement – lets be real.

Female Contrast. Hillier Bartley AW16

September 10, 2016September 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Tom Ford might have just started his new retail model – but Hillier Bartley isn’t new in this topic. Entering September, it’s the perfect (and most practical) time to think of refreshing your autumn wardrobe. Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley are here to help, in time, with their see-now, buy-now collection. The British duo has already built a ‘set’ of signatures: banana pants which do look flattering; top-notch suiting in Savile Row manner; feminine dresses with chic tassell-scarves. Also, Hillier Bartley is recognized for its Anglomania attire: at a first glance, the idea is based on the wardrobe of an English-aristocrat, who belongs to an gentlemen’s club. But then, the elegance blurs with Bowie-esque, out-of-this-world knack. With that said, don’t forget Hillier Bartley is a womenswear label, filled with women’s clothes created by women.

For autumn-winter 2016, the designers went for flea-market cool, which is so timeless and eternally relevant in London. One of the coats virtually looks like a re-cut and re-shaped Persian rug. A satin robe is worn as an evening dress according to the designers, with a pair of moccasins. Icy blue, velvet suit with a black, ribbed turtleneck underneath is a total-look worth investing. The intricately embroidered gown is a cherry on the cake – I’m obsessed with the way the oriental motif contrasts with the entire collection filled with feather elements, leopard spots and romantic, Fleetwood Mac flair. Oh, and the bags line (Hillier’s part) is blooming. From ‘Bunny’ clutches to collar-box bags with lilac tassels, the range is wide and… yummy.

Down to Earth. Rachel Comey SS17

September 10, 2016September 10, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

Rachel Comey‘s attitude to fashion has its down-to-earth, modest appeal. After having a look at Tom Ford‘s glamorous outing filled with grown-up celebrities, Comey’s outing is like a brunch with your friends – unpretentious and casual. The show was literally taking place on New York’s Crosby Street, just a few steps from Rachel’s flagship store. Chairs were set up on the sidewalk for guests, and the models, varying in age, size and look – walked down their path as naturally as it’s possible. In her press notes, the designer described the clothes as perfect for “farmer’s market,” or “to pick up the kids” adventure. But those pieces were far, far from boring. The chain skirt styled with a simple, white sweatshirt was outstanding; denim overalls and well-cut pants will sell out right away when they hit the stores. Also, Comey revives her menswear line with rainbow-striped cotton shirts and dad-style coats. Low-budget, but the result is impressive.

P.S. Instead of letting the models faint in the sun, because Kim arrives three hours late, and selling plain-looking trash-clothes to the masses, Kanye West could really take a lesson or two from Comey in “how to keep a fashion brand” subject.

Autumn Dibs from A Détacher

September 3, 2016September 3, 2016 | Design & Culture by Ed

I’m not suggesting that this look from A Détacher‘s brilliant autumn-winter 2016 show is perfectly fit for yak pastures. But it looks so, so autumnal. It says “hello October forest walks,” or “November evenings are welcome” to me. First, have a glance at the layering. A beige, V-cut sweater under a brown blazer seems easy – but looking down, we’ve got those knitted pants with a buttoned, cardigan-like trompe l’oeil idea. Second, the way Mona Kowalska considers wearing a wool beanie (or rather two wool beanies). She’s like your mum – she wants to keep you extra warm this season, so you want catch a cold.