Holland & Holland

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In modern-day times, nearly everything is done with the use of high technology. Sadly, this results in low quality products that aren’t as durable and long-lasting as they used to be in the past. That’s why, brands which thrive to preserve tradition and keep it in harmony with contemporary win my heart. Meet Holland & Holland, a British house found in 1835 with a historical speciality for outdoor apparel, guns and ready-to-get-dirty accessories for the woods. Today, the brand is re-invented by two, fantastic women, Stella Tennant and Isabella Cawdor. The first is a top-model, who regularly closes Chanel shows and stars in high-fashion campaigns; the second worked as a Vogue fashion editor. You can easily say that the duo breathes with fashion; but instead of resting on laurels, they decided to challenge themselves in the role of creative directors for a not-so-glossy brand.

What can you expect from Tennant’s and Cawdor’s take on a heritage brand which values top-notch quality and functionality for the outdoor activities?  The menswear codes of Holland & Holland are reflected in masculine silhouettes and the emphasis on classical tweed, however the designers eagerly introduce feminine softness to women’s pieces. Understanding the country life (Stella and Isabella live in Scottish highlands, and they are surrounded by moors since being kids), the newest collection is a versatile wardrobe of knitted goods, shirts, outerwear, tailoring and accessories which can be worn simultaneosly for family hunting, and to the city. Also, Holland & Holland’s refreshed vision considers British, off-kilter style, and a mandatory weather practicality – a must for every Brit. “We’re making quality clothes to deal with the weather and to look good in. It’s very simple,” Tennant says. If talking of spending a chilly day in the forest, layering and camouflage-effect are the key according to Stella – the colours are inspired by the warm colour palette of green landscape. ‘Most of these clothes camouflage brilliantly. What pops out in an urban setting is the houndstooth tweed,’ Cawdor adds. ‘But in the landscape you can’t see it. For hill and moorland, tweed is camouflage.’ Below, see how Tennant wears these beautiful midi-skirts and fox fur collars in the background of Scottish nature.

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Holland & Holland, under the wings of Tennant and Cawdor, isn’t only about durable gear for urban and rural life, but “it’s the little details that make things good or not“. The model praises local artisans and fabrics. “For example we have done very classic V-necks, round necks and polo necks, but we spent a lot of time getting the right weight of cashmere, the right density of the knit. The kind of water the wool is washed in affects the yarn (all of the yarns come from mills in Hawick on the banks of the River Teviot). The Italians like a much fluffier knit, but traditionally in Scotland it’s a dryer, cleaner finish. That’s what we like.’ Indeed, the feeling of these hearty clothes is much more rawer – without any additional embroideries, embellishment or catchy prints. It’s just as it is, pure and modern-aristocratic.

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More on Holland & Holland website

Christian Wijnants

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Usually, when I discover a designer which I haven’t known earlier, I’m living a one-day obsession with him or her. But with Christian Wijnants, I have a mania which will surely last for longer. With a soft point for Belgian fashion, no wonder why I’ve fallen in love with Wijnants’ unique, lady-like vision. Christian graduated from prestige Royal Academy of Fine Arts (‘Antwerp Six’ rings a bell?), and found his eponymous label back in 2003. As most of Belgian designers, he presents his collections to editors and buyers in Paris, and just a year ago, he opened his first flagship store in Antwerp – the city where his studio is based in. For autumn / winter 2016, Wijnants’ look-book oozes with urban femininity, peculiar colour combinations and bold patterns. A contemporary, style-conscious woman will go for one of those coats, questioning which colour is better – tangerine orange or pastel turquoise. Both look ground-breaking, so the choice isn’t easy. Knitted, olive-green turtlenecks are styled with striped baby-pink skirts, while the fluffy, fur cushion-clutches are this season’s candies out of all other accesories. The puffa jacket (of course in stripes!) is a burning desire, too. Is it a wardrobe of a modern-day dame? She’s an eccentric character, who loves to wear a pair of synthetic-white gloves to brunch!

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Men’s – Wedding Guy. Pigalle SS17

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We’ve seen nearly everything during the three weeks of men’s fashion this month. But if talking of a venue, Pigalle nailed it to the fullest in Paris. Wedding theme is nothing new in fashion, considering bride dresses and all-white haute couture gowns – but a fashion show, presented as a casual wedding? That’s quite uncommon. Stephane Ashpool set his spring-summer 2017 show at the Musée de Montmartre in the 18th arrondissement of Paris, precisely in its beautiful, old-fashioned garden. Live band music, guests  drinking champagne, a dose of Parisian fashion – a wedding you would rather want to come to, without a pretentious ‘nay’. “The first time I got dressed elegantly was for the wedding of my parents when I was seven years old,” wrote Ashpool in the show notes. “I was very touched by the party, the champagne, the outfits, the mood… I had been looking forward to enjoying it as well! In love with an angel, tonight is a celebration of what we all appreciate the most in this world: free love.”

Pigalle’s signatures were present this season, like basketball clothing-infused tailoring, however all in pastel pink, light lilac, and of course, white. Don’t think that a Pigalle guy will wear trainers for a wedding – instead, he might choose pool sliders and Nike trainers, styled with matchy socks. At the end of the show, with models strolling around the garden in their quilted bombers and satin shirts, Pigalle and his girlfriend appeared. They kissed each other, and they stole the spotlight instantly. LOVE.

“This feeling I do my best to feed all the time motivated me to create a collection around the theme of a wedding. More comfortable in the creation and technically, this eleventh collection is an interpretation of how I see my witnesses. I hope to be able to give you a hug after the show, and wish you all a good time.”

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Men’s – New Take on Crafts. Dries Van Noten SS17

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Every editor is still highly impressed with Dries Van Noten‘s last season, staged in Palais Garnier opera house. Filled with these jaw-dropping, embellished coats. It’s a rare thing in fashion industry, when a show has such a long-lasting impact and still makes a ‘WOW’ afterwards. I guess that was the top collection of men’s autumn-winter 2016. But, can anybody keep up with such success for longer? Let’s ask each other an honest question – is it possible, to make two, consecutive collections, both just as good as the first one? I really, really doubt. There’s always this “gap” collection, where the genius seems to reflect and save creative energy for the next season.

Spring-summer 2017 wasn’t a ground-breaking moment for Dries’ career, and I’m pretty sure he agrees with that. But this doesn’t mean the collection was bad – oh, no. It surely scored a place on the podium of season’s best, with his “new take on arts and crafts“. While designing the collection, Van Noten wanted to take a rest from embroideries and his old, good colour palettes, searching for inspiration in fabric art and textile artists who were present in the 60s and 70s. The effect? A wide variety of texture and textiles, visible in amazingly great pieces. Silk print coats and jackets were patched together from Enlightment-era botanicals, while arty sweaters looked raw and dilapidated thanks to lovely, yarn finishings. The camouflage print in khaki appeared multiple times, contrasting with peacefully light trench coats and pants. The designer didn’t rest on his laurels, that’s for sure. And the anticipation for the next collection, coming in six month, is already reaching the peak point.

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My Style Profile, Farfetch!

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Design & Culture by Ed, as a blog, focuses on fashion – both in design and cultural terms. I’m fascinated with the way the fashion industry works, and I love observing how designers evolve their aesthetics and style. That’s why, I put emphasis on fashion show reports and various fashion features. My blog differs from others, because I’m not posting photos of my outfits on daily basis – I always consider this what’s happening in fashion world much more gripping! But there are exceptions! For Farfetch, the only on-line store, which gives you the experience of shopping high-fashion brands from most luxurious boutiques in the world, it’s a pleasure to open up with my personal style. Along an interview (which will tell you more about me and my love for fashion), and few of my favourite outfits, I will also present you my Farfetch wish-lists! Go for it, and scroll down!

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‘EVERYDAY ME’ – 1. Christopher Kane car crash print t-shirt 2. Rick Owens cropped drop crotch trousers 3. Thom Browne zipped flat cluctch 4. No21 detail front zip sandals

How would you describe your style? My style is first of all about comfort – before I wear something, I need to be sure that I feel comfortable in a given piece! I love to call my style eclectic, mixing sporty with elegant, modern with vintage. My style isn’t categorised, because it’s all about me, and my current mood.

What is your wardrobe’s most seasonless item? I think it’s my dad’s beige, cashmere sweater by Loro Piana – it’s warm in the winter, and I take it with me for every summer vacation, as it’s a perfect choice for breezy, sea evenings.

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When in doubt, what are your go-to pieces? What always looks good, and matches nearly every occasion, is a turtleneck worn with black pants. For summer, I’m sure my Birkenstocks will keep me comfortable the whole day – love to wear them with a bold t-shirt and shorts!

Who do you count as your style inspiration? Nick Wooster, and his great styling for everyday essentials; Marchetti Simone, he has this romantic, Italian spark for fashion; Haider Ackermann for his masterful layering skills.

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‘FRIDAY’ – 1. Dsquared2 zip detail bomber jacket 2. Y/Project paneled ‘Kangaroo’ t-shirt 3. Byredo ‘Bibliotheque’ scented candle 4. Maison Margiela contrast cuff jeans

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How long have you been blogging? Is writing a blog influencing your style? I started my blog back in 2012, and throughout these four years, a lot has changed in fashion. So, naturally, writing a blog influences my style constantly. Even though I’m not a trend-victim, I believe we’re all somehow influenced by the way fashion tendencies change!

Who are your favourite designers / brands? Phoebe Philo… love the way she designs fashion for women, sadly she doesn’t do Céline for men! Again, Haider Ackermann, I consider his collection as rebellious and beautiful. Also, I have a soft point for Yohji Yamamoto’s sophistication and No21 Italian cool.

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‘EDGY ELEGANCE’ – 1. Y/Project turtleneck sweater 2. Haider Ackermann toe cap detail boots 3. Haider Ackermann intarsia knit socks 4. Givenchy pleated shorts

Have any must-haves on your radar for the upcoming, autumn-winter 2016 season? I’m looking forward to denim, denim and once more, denim. A denim jacket with embroideries is my dream of the season. Also, I’m into over-sized puffa jackets and exaggerated, big knits!

What do you enjoy most about being a blogger? Discovering new people, interacting with my very supportive readers both on my blog and on social media, and receiving all the interesting proposals! Collaborating – this is what I deeply love, being a fashion blogger.

In your opinion, what are the ‘fashion’ cities? I’ve got three. First, Paris. It’s all about chic and decadence, but also, Parisians are inspiring. They seem to get it always right, effortlessly. Then, it’s Berlin – I love this contemporary, quite edgy aesthetics that’s ruling there. Lastly, Milan is a ‘fashion’ city to me, because Italians love fashion, love shopping and love life!

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‘PARISIENNE’ – 1. Maison Kitsune ‘Parisien’ print t-shirt 2. Yohji Yamamoto printed cropped pants 3. Saint Laurent shopper tote 4. Marni neoprene hi-top sneakers

Where do you enjoy shopping? Before travelling, I usually try to find all the hottest boutiques and concept stores in the city I’m heading to. So, most of my buys come from abroad! But this doesn’t mean I’m not buying anything back at home. I’ve got some of my favourite boutiques in Poland. And, of course, I’m buying on-line… also at home, on my sofa!

Why do you love Farfetch? For its unique concept. Combining more than 400 boutiques from around the world and put them all into one address? How genius is that? I appreciate Farfetch’ selection, too – from famous brands, like Givenchy, to more off-beat ones, like Gosha Rubchinskiy, there’s literally everything a fashion insider needs.

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All items featured in today’s post can be found on Farfetch.com – the go-to fashion destination. Be sure to check out New In pieces & create wishlists of your own!