December 16: The Olsen sisters make The Row super coveted not only it’s so luxurious- it’s also super wearable. You can wear one of their sweaters for so many years. It’s basically like Celine, but based in New York. The clothes, bags and shoes are always styled in smart way, and their Resort 2015’s model – Jamie Bochert – works the outfits in a moody, sophisticated way.
“We cover our women and guys throughout the day, but they’ve also been asking how they can do Baja East for evening,” said cofounder John Targon. The answer? “Relaxed cocktail.” Targon and Scott Studenberg have built Baja East around the idea of unisexual dressing—clothes that work well, but differently, on both men and women. Their knitwear lends itself nicely to the concept, looking fluid-like and wrapped all around the body. Pre-Fall’s pale pink ribbed cotton baja is not only Baja East signature, but also the conection to 2014’s main think- normcore.A silk-lined, spangly Lurex wrap skirt, paired with an oversize chunky cashmere sweater, is a no-brainer for women, but an interesting challenge for the daring man who trust the brand. But what really clearly works both ways is the brand’s fabrications. A Japanese silk crepe, used on a simple snap-front skirt and a pair of side-pocket harem pants, felt good enough to sleep in. And the turtlenecks are going to give you warmth everywhere.
December 12: One thing you can say for sure about Jacquemus: The brand’s attitude of youthful exuberance is not affected. Exaggareated silhouettes? Yes. Naive mood? Checked. Simon is just a cool Parisian kid making cool clothes for stylish girls. And not only for the 25-and-lower the age scale.
Pre-Fall offered them a chance to revisit the hits from Spring, dig further into their back catalog, and begin testing out ideas they’ll put on the runway for next Fall in February. Fringe dresses, tessel skirts, but now knitted, voluminous tops and a slouchy way of wearing. The clothes were in other words really good. But it feels that Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough start to get commercial. In 2015, their 8th store will be opened! So no wonder why they keep consistency. The clothes aren’t so “one-season” as few years ago. And if looking at pre-fall 2015, this is clearly visible, knowing Proenza- those are old hits framed into a new look-book. Whether it’s good or no- pre-falls and resorts are usually about more commercial fashion. Hopefully, Lazaro and Jack won’t change into mass-production corporation for their read-to-wear.
P.s. Forgetting “commercialism”, Proenza Shouler boys made a convincing case for the covered-up proportions with a long cable-knit sweaterdress buttoned up the back over one of those pleated knit skirts. And those fringed heels are major.
Creatures of The Wind always produce collections which are nostalgic, but in a nice, fresh way. For pre-fall 2015, boys of CoTW brought a cool air of vintage- grandma’s fur coat, fabrics brought from Asian countries, warm wool caftans that used to be your dad’s bath robe- all of that felt beautiful and very deep. Although many things in this collection seem to be very different, I bet nothing was random for the designers. Definitely, the most heart-breaking piece of this collection is the long sequined skirt with those blue elements- India, Myanmar? Or maybe something totally different? Surely that’s a long, warm story to tell. Simply, interpret this collection the way you want to.
