When in Genoa

July 25, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Once called the ‘mistress of the sea’ due to its port, today Genoa (also read as Genova) isn’t that much in favour, especially if speaking of tourists. There’s no sense in planning your walk around the historic centre of the city. The streets and narrow caruggi twine and tangle without much logic, so it’s better to go with the flow (but remember not to get too lost – it’s better to stay in the main part of the city, since Genoa in general is infamous for being one of the least safe places in Italy). The local roughness and state of dilapidated, close-to-ruin buildings might repel at the beginning, but you will surely feel the charm on the second day of your stay. Genoa reminds you that Italy isn’t that polished after all, and the laundry getting dried on the streets isn’t a postcard cliché, but reality. What’s definitely worth visiting is Cattedrale di San Lorenzo (which is somewhere between Gothic and Baroque style) that stores an underground treasury. Still, Genoa’s streets intrigued me the most. At some moments they get totally dark, even in the day-time. Not only because they are narrow; the townhouses are surprisingly tall as well. The effect is highly cinematic. Also note all the small food markets. For coffee, go to the chic Caffè Degli Specchi that has the best ice coffee, while for small shopping try Aspesi (best ‘Made in Italy’ shirts in very affordable prices) and the vintage market situated at Galleria Mazzini (next post is coming up on that magical place!). But in the end, even though every guide seems to hate Genoa, we had great time here. We weren’t robbed or anything like that!

A hint: if you’re travelling in a big car, Genoa might be a hard nut to crack. Parking here is a nightmare, and no guide will tell you this…

More of my addresses from Genoa are right here.

SONY DSC

SONY DSC

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Bavaria / Tyrol

July 23, 2018July 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

On our road trip to Italy (and back home), we’ve stayed for a few days in the mountains. First, we stopped in a small Austrian town (stone throw from Innsbruck) to get that fresh, Tyrol air. And ride the funicular! We did the same in Bavaria, the Alpine region of Germany. Bayrischzell is a perfect place for long forest walks, goat milk (get in at Leitzachtaler Ziegenhof farm) and, in general, every other typically Bavarian activity like drinking beer (not for me, though!) and hiking. Oh, and taking a bath in front of a waterfall is nothing unusual here. If you’re here, hit the Wandelstein mountain that’s near – up there you might have a chance listen to local orchestra, eat the all-time classic wurst and fall in love with every single view. Well, maybe not ‘every’ – unless you’re into the current ‘fashion trekker’ look done by the locals and tourists.

For those planning to reach the top of any other mountain in Tyrol or Bavara this summer – in style – you might want to get hold of these Marni Olive neoprene sneakers and that Y/Project hoodie.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Céline in Munich

July 22, 2018July 22, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

Our road trip to Italy (lots of posts coming up!) had some stops. And the first, but very major one, was the Céline store in Munich. We weren’t only lured by Phoebe Philo’s last pieces for the brand. The two-floor store was opened last September, and will be -unfortunately – soon refurbished under Hedi Slimane’s direction (as all the other Céline boutiques around the world). So, we wanted to have this ‘good-bye’ moment with the multicoloured marble tiles inlaid with semi-precious stones, the abstract hangers and shelves, fluffy sofas and enormously big pot plants that made each Céline store somewhat feel like home for all the Philophiles. As all the other Céline stores, this one was designed by the Danish artist Thomas Poulsen. Together with the pre-fall 2018 goods (think rubber boots and over-sized hoodies), everything from the colours to textures works in a perfect harmony. Now, I’m serious – if an eventual garage sale of the Céline store stuff comes up, please, let me know!

Maximilianstrasse 22 / Munich

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Lisbon Guide

June 30, 2018June 23, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

It was my second time in Lisbon (I’ve been there in April as well – see all the posts on it here), but I still feel like I need a separate month to discover this city fully. Why? The number of tiny stores with well-curated, limited edition goods (from notebooks to babouche slippers) is unbelievable here, and it really needs time to get to know all of them! Just like with various concept stores, boutiques and outlets…

Below are the five spots I found intriguing. But I know there are more! So if you want to start with something, scroll down.

I adore places like Artes & Letras Atelier, because I’m a huge devotee of print. This small store works as well as a studio, where all the notebooks, pamphlets, postcards, letters and illustrations are made. Bought a beautiful, hand-sewn notebook here and I can’t let myself use it – it’s too precious.

Rua dos Poiais de São Bento 90

SONY DSC

Designer Ana Costa has created the brand +351 which stands for the Portuguese dialing code. Ana’s creative process is inspired by her lifestyle, which is connected with the city of Lisbon and it’s proximity with the ocean. Influenced by her surroundings, and her surfing passion, Ana delivers clothing with an attitude, but in a relaxed day-to-day style. Once visiting their flagship boutique, take a look at all the striped tops!

Rua Poiais de S. Bento 18

Embaixada is located in Ribeiro da Cunha Palace, one of the most iconic building in the trendy neighbourhood of Príncipe Real. This XIX century new-Arabian Palace was turned into an innovative shopping gallery that hosts a series of national brands and artists focused on Portuguese design, craftsmanship, fashion, gastronomy and culture. The result is a meeting point of people and experiences, blending preservation of the architectural heritage with the newest that Portugal has to offer.

Praça do Príncipe Real 26

Lisbon is one of the most diverse cities in the world. No wonder that you can even find a store fully dedicated to clothes coming from India. Lost In has a gorgeous selection of shirts, jackets, shawls and dresses, all kept in bold colours and made from finest cottons. Just behind the store you’ve got a bar/restaurant with the same name. Didn’t eat there, though.

R. Dom Pedro V 56-D

Casa Pau-Brasil is another spot that can be easily dubbed as ‘mind-blowing’. At the entrance, stuffed yellow birds hang from the ceiling of the Palácio Castilho in Lisbon’s Príncipe Real neighbourhood. Casa Pau-Brasil opened its doors in April 2017 to stage Brazilian design, fashion and beauty to the European world. This huge space sells the best of Brazil – Fernando and Umberto Campana’s surreal furniture; wooden tables from Hugo França; evening wear from Juliana Herc; sweets by Chocolate Q. And many, many others.

Rua da Escola Politécnica 42

If you’re interested in reading more posts on Portugal, or you’re planning your trip to places like Porto or the Algarve region, click here.

All photos by Edward Kanarecki.

Sé do Porto

June 20, 2018June 20, 2018 | Design & Culture by Ed

I have such a beautiful memory from this major destination in Porto. Originally built in the 12th century, Porto Cathedral (or Sé do Porto) still has the original merlons and twin towers, although the towers are now topped by 18th century additions. It has undergone various alterations over the centuries, the most important additions being the Gothic rose window, the cloisters, the 18th century altar and the rococo doorway. But you don’t notice details like this when in a crowd of tourist. Really, by co-incidence, we had a chance to visit the Cathedral all by ourselves: we came a few minutes before the closing, but the lovely cashier let us go in. Walking around the cloisters as if it was your summer mansion, ahh, what a feeling! You can look at the tiled walls with no haste and see every single tiny fragment (and believe me, the Portuguese loved tile story-telling). And all that in total silence.